#Fashion

Photography by Sebastian Davies

Pam Hogg presented her SS24 collection titled “Apocalypse”, dedicated to Synead O’Connor, which she compares to Joan of Arc, and says to have resembled a similar fate - burning at the stake. Known as the "Caledonian Queen of Cling," she defied fashion norms with provocatively punk and original designs using counterculture materials like PVC and leather-infused jerseys with leather, gold lurex, sheer mesh, and metallics, many of which she has been repurposing for over two decades. Her clothes made it into the wardrobes of stars like Kate Moss and Lady Gaga, and the walls of prestigious art galleries around the world. Photography by Ki Price

De Fichier revealed their newest collection showcasing as part of the official LFW schedule through a presentation inviting their audience to explore, touch and connect with the garments in a fantastic showroom bringing nature from the outdoors to tie the experience together. The collection titled “Episode Three” is a reminder of how young the brand is yet how impressive their journey has been. The inspiration behind this collection is the dual identity of the uniform, which is both contradictory and ironic, as one hand it reveals someone’s social status and embodies their leadership, and on the other - it represents a member of a group who has to submit to social order and power, and this way blend into those groups. In a conversation with the brand manager, we discover that De Fichier actually use many different modern techniques and technology to develop their fabrics as well as the structure and even shoes which are 3D printed. In this collection the brand explores the changing attitudes towards futurism and the futuristic as we get closer and closer to the age previously depicted in sci-fi movies. The image built in society’s imagination is subjected to speculation which marks a perspective shift in how people see the future - they’ve built an imaginary world where people "wear silver jumpsuits and enjoy technological brilliance" which becomes different from reality.

Mark Fast delivers a street style celebration of colour to the catwalk of London Fashion Week for his Spring Summer 2024 collection. Titled “ Dawn to Dusk” it reminds us of nature’s timeless beauty with a touch of futuristic allure; as it seamlessly blends the mystique of desert landscapes with the promise of a vibrant dawn and the serenity of the evening. As the models step on the runway, we are presented wtih an array of expertly crafted looks, the first one being an all-black knit dress, featuring chunky knots which get finer reaching the legs and this way complimenting the body and creating this slim and tall silhouette. Or a long puffer jacket complimented by a paneled top revealed underneath in multiple shades of blue grabbing inspiration from the night skies and making sure you are warm in the desert’s nights. Guided by a profound appreciation for life's ever-changing rhythms, Fast's expertise shines through in carefully chosen linen blends, elastic stretch fabrics, and fresh light-weight denim. These materials ensure comfort under the scorching sun while embracing the chill of desert nights. Unisex designs and crochet beaded demi-couture pieces offer a versatile and elegant adaptability. The colour palette pays homage to the desert's enchanting beauty – from the vivid evening skies to sun-kissed denim, all accented by electrifying neon tones. Signature monogram accessories and futuristic canvas shoes add a contemporary edge, blending the past seamlessly with the future. This collection is designed for spirited youth culture, the trailblazers who revel in the desert's allure and embrace the vibrant dance of life. It effortlessly marries vintage aesthetics with modern flair, reflecting the dynamic spirit of those who live life with unapologetic zest.

The new Balenciaga campaign also features the return of the friends of the brand from the Autumn campaign Justin Bieber and the French acting legend Isabelle Huppert. Kim has been wearing Balenciaga almost religiously since last year, from her undercover appearance at the Met Gala wearing the full black custom Demna look with a long trail, through her iconic pink look with gloves for her first Saturday Night Live show, to her appearance for her now ex-husband Kanye West’s Donda promos, it comes as no surprise that the 41 year old mogul and influencer was selected to be the new face of the brand. At the time of writing this, the only photo featured on the completely wiped out Instagram feed of Balenciaga is Kim casually taking a selfie in her mansion in LA. Wearing a fitted top and leggings, accessorised with the iconic Balenciaga sock boots and the new city favourite key-lime Le Cagole shoulder bag in crocodile calfskin. In another photo she is seen sporting the label’s Boxy Fake Fur Coat, the Le Cagole statement shoulder bag in black with knee-high leather boots. Kim Kardashian has a Balenciaga look for every occasion. In celebration of passing the bar exam she wore an outfit similar to her Met Gala but this time in a stunning deep blue with a trail, matching boots, complemented by blinding ear pieces.

Multiple sources have claimed that allegedly the iconic Marilyn Monroe dress has been ripped and completely destroyed after Kim Kardashian wore it at the Met Gala last month, raising questions about conservation and the interest of Ripley’s in the matter. The Met Gala 2022 is a fundraising benefit for the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Celebrities collaborate with designers to show off their hottest looks of the season, and this time in usual fashion of the Kardashians, Kim was determined to not just show off but to become the talk of town - and more specifically the talk of the internet, press, media, TV news and… well, you get the idea. So what better way to accomplish that than to parade with your influence over all layers in society, I mean she freed people from prison, brought change to the juridical system in the US, so now she had laid eyes on the dress worn by Marilyn Monroe for the Happy Birthday Mr. President moment we are all familiar with. When she initially went in to try on the dress however, she was unable to fit into it, and Ripley’s were clear that no alterations were to be made to the dress with their statement: “great care was taken to preserve this piece of pop culture history. With input from garment conservationists, appraisers, and archivists, the garment’s condition was top priority … no alterations were to be made to the dress and Kim even changed into a replica after the red carpet!⁠” However, Kim’s determination meant that she would go on an extreme weight-loss regime to try and squeeze into the dress. It involved a vegetable-centric diet, lots of time on the treadmill and wearing a sauna suit twice a day. “It was such a challenge,” she said. “It was like a role, I was determined to fit it.” A month later however, images have appeared in a blog post suggesting damage to the dress, with tearing on the back where the zipper is, hanging off or missing altogether rhinestones and just all sorts of irreparable damage. Now don’t get me wrong this is not the pinnacle of fashion, at the end of the day it is literally a simple nude dress covered up in rhinestones but it marks an important historical moment, especially considering Monroe’s tragic death after becoming a global phenomenon. For comparison a photo of the dress from 2016 shows that no damage at the time was present on the dress, when it was auctioned and bought by Ripley’s.

Paul Costelloe opened the official London Fashion Week schedule with a 9am show at the Horticultural Halls in Central London. Known for his fabulous bell dresses and classic looks reworked with modern prints and fresh colours, the designer did not disappoint. The collection masterfully titled “ Il Giardino “ ( “ The Garden “) was said by the designer to be the return of Romanticism to the catwalk. Featuring long and midi dresses, unstructured and relaxed blazers, bows, with a tennis racket in hand, the collection brought in a sense of nostalgia for a time I never lived or experienced before. Images by Sebastian Davies

With the venue being the current Four Seasons in Tower Hill, which in the 20th century was the Port of London Authority, or the area where immigrants arriving in the city would have to pass through in order to get their right-to-work; the show paid homage to the past and “the depths of human connection and the threads of migration that weave us together. “ This results in an emotional and culturally rich story, paying homage to the past, embracing the present and encouraging an even better connected future. Valuable stories were told and lessons were learned through these widely revered celebrations across West Africa. The showpieces pay direct homage to this with masks appearing throughout in printed textiles. Raffia and similar frayed fabrics nod to the materials used in the traditional masquerade attire. Blazers feature mask prints, symbolising the courageous faces of individuals who have found a new home, solace and inspiration here in London — a modern hub of culture and vibrant stories. In every stitch, there lies a profound story of movement and migration. Inspired by Mende and Temne tribal masks, each garment in this collection becomes a wearable canvas — a testament to the courage and resilience of those who have undertaken transformative journeys across borders and continents. On the site of what was formerly the headquarters of the Port of London Authority; The Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square is a Grade II listed building that speaks to the journeys that have inspired this collection as historically migrants had to pass through this building when looking to work in London. Silhouettes are drawn from the 70s migration, accentuating the shape and exaggerating the volume of the garment so that they flow. Every detail represents the hopes, dreams, and aspirations of those who have sought new horizons, leaving behind imprints of their vibrant cultural heritage. A jacquard technique has been used to give exceptional dimensions to the fabrics, something which is not achievable with traditional printing. The yarns have been cut to reinforce this as they enable a transparency and almost sheerness to emphasise the pattern. This is a mechanical method where the machine cuts the floating yarns before sucking them in and shaving them to the desired length. As you wear these garments, you embody the journeys, aspirations, and spirit of those who have migrated and left an indelible mark on the fabric of society. “The storytelling of this adventure is on textiles through daring colours and patterns. As well as techniques such as screen printing, quilting, weave and knitwear all used to highlight this odyssey further,” says Foday. Every piece in “Nomoli Odyssey: A Migration of Style and Identity” is an ode to the human spirit, boldly declaring that style knows no boundaries. It’s informed by the pathfinders and adventurers who defied limitations, celebrating their heritage while creating a new narrative interlaced with cosmopolitan flair. Nomoli Odyssey celebrates the universal longing for connection, the power of human expression, and the unbreakable bonds that unite us all.

Watching Mithridate’s SS24 show was like a breath of fresh air, almost contradicting the majority of catwalks from the official schedule. This refreshing departure was marked by vibrant colors and a notably cheerful tone. Interestingly, upon reading the show notes, the inspiration behind the collection becomes evident: it draws from Demon Zhang's heritage (the Creative Director of Mithridate) and incorporates elements of traditional Chinese medicinal techniques including the key 24 different healing herbs. The collection is bursting with a spectrum of hues, including radiant yellow, calming cyan, earthy salt pink, and gentle jade. These colors are thoughtfully arranged on organic and remedial fabrics such as silk, cotton, and linen. In line with MITHRIDATE's emblematic moth motif, this season introduces the captivating ghost moth. Not only does this moth is believed to posses healing properties, but it also adorns the collection in patterns, layered accessories, exquisite hand embroidery, and elegantly winged silhouettes. Demon Zhang masterfully blends traditional and modern aesthetics by incorporating oriental cutting designs and the bean dye technique from Southwest China, all while seamlessly integrating laser cutting and hydraulic spray painting. Infused with her signature maximalist style, the collection experiments with flowing textures and plays with the interplay of light and layering to exude a sense of healing energy.

Merve Bayindir just launched an exclusive collection at Bergdorf. Merve Bayindir collection reflects the uniqueness and savoir-faire of the head-piece architect. Collaborating with the giant Bergdorf, the brand presents a one-of-a-kind collection of vibrant headpieces that elevate any occasion, making a sophisticated and memorable statement. Their story is about a strong bond between a mother and a daughter, who have been through some tough times and come out stronger together. For them life is all about family, sharing, love, trust, dreams and happiness, and they manage to find all that in making hats and sharing them with the world. They established the brand in 2013 in Istanbul, their dream grew bigger and with the strength of their bond and belief in one another they packed up everything and moved to London in 2016. They say “We know how lucky we are to have each other and have such an amazing relationship so we try to reflect that to all our projects but especially to our hats”. Merve Bayindir Couture collection is inspired by a strong force, it pushes the standard to a higher level of design and colours. The collection is a mixture of old-school and modern aesthetic to keep a timeless heritage.

Ukrainian based brand, BEVZA, returns to New York Fashion Week this September to present their SS24 collection. Founded by Svitlana Beza, their SS’24 collection will bring back the brand’s ethos to New York. BEVZA's Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a tribute to the enthusiastic and socially aware young generation, who are committed to building a more peaceful future. The collection continues to draw its primary visual inspiration from BEVZA's signature color: white. However, a noteworthy addition to this collection is the prominent use of blooming marigolds as a central design element. Marigolds hold deep cultural significance in Ukraine, having been celebrated in song, literature, and poetry for generations. In Ukrainian, they are referred to as "Chornobryvets" and symbolize optimism and renewal. The idea behind this collection, as explored by Svitlana Bevza, is rooted in the resilience and growth that marigolds represent. Just as where you plant a marigold, it will inevitably flourish, this collection embodies the spirit of hope and regeneration. "Marigolds are my grandfather’s favorite flowers. In honor of his memory, for 20 years on my balcony in Kyiv I used to replant the seeds he gave me. I was forced to leave my home in Kyiv, but I kept his memory with me. I want these flowers to sprout everywhere." In addition to marigolds, the collection also features tulip petals and spikelets. Delicate and tender tulip petals are thoughtfully incorporated into the SS'24 collection, adorning the skirts and hemlines of the dresses. Meanwhile, spikelets are prominently featured on the hardware of the bags and in the jewelry pieces. The inclusion of spikelets serves to symbolize fertility and rebirth, adding further layers of meaning and depth to the collection's thematic exploration of growth, renewal, and the enduring spirit of life. The SS24 collection by BEVZA embodies three central characteristics: youthfulness, sustainability, and dedication to craftsmanship. In a commitment to preserving and revitalizing artisanal techniques, the collection seamlessly weaves traditional Ukrainian jewelry, crafted from beads, into modern handmade dress details. This fusion of old and new pays homage to heritage while celebrating the vitality of youth. Furthermore, BEVZA maintains its commitment to sustainability in the SS'24 collection by employing zero waste fabric technology in the creation of many pieces. This sustainable approach underscores the brand's dedication to environmentally responsible fashion practices, aligning with the contemporary demand for fashion that not only looks good but also contributes positively to our planet. BEVZA continues their efforts to keep and create jobs in Ukraine while representing the nation on an international scale. Their mission continues to focus on the betterment of Ukraine.