#Fashion

Photography by Sebastian Davies

Pam Hogg presented her SS24 collection titled “Apocalypse”, dedicated to Synead O’Connor, which she compares to Joan of Arc, and says to have resembled a similar fate - burning at the stake. Known as the "Caledonian Queen of Cling," she defied fashion norms with provocatively punk and original designs using counterculture materials like PVC and leather-infused jerseys with leather, gold lurex, sheer mesh, and metallics, many of which she has been repurposing for over two decades. Her clothes made it into the wardrobes of stars like Kate Moss and Lady Gaga, and the walls of prestigious art galleries around the world. Photography by Ki Price

De Fichier revealed their newest collection showcasing as part of the official LFW schedule through a presentation inviting their audience to explore, touch and connect with the garments in a fantastic showroom bringing nature from the outdoors to tie the experience together. The collection titled “Episode Three” is a reminder of how young the brand is yet how impressive their journey has been. The inspiration behind this collection is the dual identity of the uniform, which is both contradictory and ironic, as one hand it reveals someone’s social status and embodies their leadership, and on the other - it represents a member of a group who has to submit to social order and power, and this way blend into those groups. In a conversation with the brand manager, we discover that De Fichier actually use many different modern techniques and technology to develop their fabrics as well as the structure and even shoes which are 3D printed. In this collection the brand explores the changing attitudes towards futurism and the futuristic as we get closer and closer to the age previously depicted in sci-fi movies. The image built in society’s imagination is subjected to speculation which marks a perspective shift in how people see the future - they’ve built an imaginary world where people "wear silver jumpsuits and enjoy technological brilliance" which becomes different from reality.

Mark Fast delivers a street style celebration of colour to the catwalk of London Fashion Week for his Spring Summer 2024 collection. Titled “ Dawn to Dusk” it reminds us of nature’s timeless beauty with a touch of futuristic allure; as it seamlessly blends the mystique of desert landscapes with the promise of a vibrant dawn and the serenity of the evening. As the models step on the runway, we are presented wtih an array of expertly crafted looks, the first one being an all-black knit dress, featuring chunky knots which get finer reaching the legs and this way complimenting the body and creating this slim and tall silhouette. Or a long puffer jacket complimented by a paneled top revealed underneath in multiple shades of blue grabbing inspiration from the night skies and making sure you are warm in the desert’s nights. Guided by a profound appreciation for life's ever-changing rhythms, Fast's expertise shines through in carefully chosen linen blends, elastic stretch fabrics, and fresh light-weight denim. These materials ensure comfort under the scorching sun while embracing the chill of desert nights. Unisex designs and crochet beaded demi-couture pieces offer a versatile and elegant adaptability. The colour palette pays homage to the desert's enchanting beauty – from the vivid evening skies to sun-kissed denim, all accented by electrifying neon tones. Signature monogram accessories and futuristic canvas shoes add a contemporary edge, blending the past seamlessly with the future. This collection is designed for spirited youth culture, the trailblazers who revel in the desert's allure and embrace the vibrant dance of life. It effortlessly marries vintage aesthetics with modern flair, reflecting the dynamic spirit of those who live life with unapologetic zest.

Paul Costelloe opened the official London Fashion Week schedule with a 9am show at the Horticultural Halls in Central London. Known for his fabulous bell dresses and classic looks reworked with modern prints and fresh colours, the designer did not disappoint. The collection masterfully titled “ Il Giardino “ ( “ The Garden “) was said by the designer to be the return of Romanticism to the catwalk. Featuring long and midi dresses, unstructured and relaxed blazers, bows, with a tennis racket in hand, the collection brought in a sense of nostalgia for a time I never lived or experienced before. Images by Sebastian Davies

With the venue being the current Four Seasons in Tower Hill, which in the 20th century was the Port of London Authority, or the area where immigrants arriving in the city would have to pass through in order to get their right-to-work; the show paid homage to the past and “the depths of human connection and the threads of migration that weave us together. “ This results in an emotional and culturally rich story, paying homage to the past, embracing the present and encouraging an even better connected future. Valuable stories were told and lessons were learned through these widely revered celebrations across West Africa. The showpieces pay direct homage to this with masks appearing throughout in printed textiles. Raffia and similar frayed fabrics nod to the materials used in the traditional masquerade attire. Blazers feature mask prints, symbolising the courageous faces of individuals who have found a new home, solace and inspiration here in London — a modern hub of culture and vibrant stories. In every stitch, there lies a profound story of movement and migration. Inspired by Mende and Temne tribal masks, each garment in this collection becomes a wearable canvas — a testament to the courage and resilience of those who have undertaken transformative journeys across borders and continents. On the site of what was formerly the headquarters of the Port of London Authority; The Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square is a Grade II listed building that speaks to the journeys that have inspired this collection as historically migrants had to pass through this building when looking to work in London. Silhouettes are drawn from the 70s migration, accentuating the shape and exaggerating the volume of the garment so that they flow. Every detail represents the hopes, dreams, and aspirations of those who have sought new horizons, leaving behind imprints of their vibrant cultural heritage. A jacquard technique has been used to give exceptional dimensions to the fabrics, something which is not achievable with traditional printing. The yarns have been cut to reinforce this as they enable a transparency and almost sheerness to emphasise the pattern. This is a mechanical method where the machine cuts the floating yarns before sucking them in and shaving them to the desired length. As you wear these garments, you embody the journeys, aspirations, and spirit of those who have migrated and left an indelible mark on the fabric of society. “The storytelling of this adventure is on textiles through daring colours and patterns. As well as techniques such as screen printing, quilting, weave and knitwear all used to highlight this odyssey further,” says Foday. Every piece in “Nomoli Odyssey: A Migration of Style and Identity” is an ode to the human spirit, boldly declaring that style knows no boundaries. It’s informed by the pathfinders and adventurers who defied limitations, celebrating their heritage while creating a new narrative interlaced with cosmopolitan flair. Nomoli Odyssey celebrates the universal longing for connection, the power of human expression, and the unbreakable bonds that unite us all.

Watching Mithridate’s SS24 show was like a breath of fresh air, almost contradicting the majority of catwalks from the official schedule. This refreshing departure was marked by vibrant colors and a notably cheerful tone. Interestingly, upon reading the show notes, the inspiration behind the collection becomes evident: it draws from Demon Zhang's heritage (the Creative Director of Mithridate) and incorporates elements of traditional Chinese medicinal techniques including the key 24 different healing herbs. The collection is bursting with a spectrum of hues, including radiant yellow, calming cyan, earthy salt pink, and gentle jade. These colors are thoughtfully arranged on organic and remedial fabrics such as silk, cotton, and linen. In line with MITHRIDATE's emblematic moth motif, this season introduces the captivating ghost moth. Not only does this moth is believed to posses healing properties, but it also adorns the collection in patterns, layered accessories, exquisite hand embroidery, and elegantly winged silhouettes. Demon Zhang masterfully blends traditional and modern aesthetics by incorporating oriental cutting designs and the bean dye technique from Southwest China, all while seamlessly integrating laser cutting and hydraulic spray painting. Infused with her signature maximalist style, the collection experiments with flowing textures and plays with the interplay of light and layering to exude a sense of healing energy.

Merve Bayindir just launched an exclusive collection at Bergdorf. Merve Bayindir collection reflects the uniqueness and savoir-faire of the head-piece architect. Collaborating with the giant Bergdorf, the brand presents a one-of-a-kind collection of vibrant headpieces that elevate any occasion, making a sophisticated and memorable statement. Their story is about a strong bond between a mother and a daughter, who have been through some tough times and come out stronger together. For them life is all about family, sharing, love, trust, dreams and happiness, and they manage to find all that in making hats and sharing them with the world. They established the brand in 2013 in Istanbul, their dream grew bigger and with the strength of their bond and belief in one another they packed up everything and moved to London in 2016. They say “We know how lucky we are to have each other and have such an amazing relationship so we try to reflect that to all our projects but especially to our hats”. Merve Bayindir Couture collection is inspired by a strong force, it pushes the standard to a higher level of design and colours. The collection is a mixture of old-school and modern aesthetic to keep a timeless heritage.

Ukrainian based brand, BEVZA, returns to New York Fashion Week this September to present their SS24 collection. Founded by Svitlana Beza, their SS’24 collection will bring back the brand’s ethos to New York. BEVZA's Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a tribute to the enthusiastic and socially aware young generation, who are committed to building a more peaceful future. The collection continues to draw its primary visual inspiration from BEVZA's signature color: white. However, a noteworthy addition to this collection is the prominent use of blooming marigolds as a central design element. Marigolds hold deep cultural significance in Ukraine, having been celebrated in song, literature, and poetry for generations. In Ukrainian, they are referred to as "Chornobryvets" and symbolize optimism and renewal. The idea behind this collection, as explored by Svitlana Bevza, is rooted in the resilience and growth that marigolds represent. Just as where you plant a marigold, it will inevitably flourish, this collection embodies the spirit of hope and regeneration. "Marigolds are my grandfather’s favorite flowers. In honor of his memory, for 20 years on my balcony in Kyiv I used to replant the seeds he gave me. I was forced to leave my home in Kyiv, but I kept his memory with me. I want these flowers to sprout everywhere." In addition to marigolds, the collection also features tulip petals and spikelets. Delicate and tender tulip petals are thoughtfully incorporated into the SS'24 collection, adorning the skirts and hemlines of the dresses. Meanwhile, spikelets are prominently featured on the hardware of the bags and in the jewelry pieces. The inclusion of spikelets serves to symbolize fertility and rebirth, adding further layers of meaning and depth to the collection's thematic exploration of growth, renewal, and the enduring spirit of life. The SS24 collection by BEVZA embodies three central characteristics: youthfulness, sustainability, and dedication to craftsmanship. In a commitment to preserving and revitalizing artisanal techniques, the collection seamlessly weaves traditional Ukrainian jewelry, crafted from beads, into modern handmade dress details. This fusion of old and new pays homage to heritage while celebrating the vitality of youth. Furthermore, BEVZA maintains its commitment to sustainability in the SS'24 collection by employing zero waste fabric technology in the creation of many pieces. This sustainable approach underscores the brand's dedication to environmentally responsible fashion practices, aligning with the contemporary demand for fashion that not only looks good but also contributes positively to our planet. BEVZA continues their efforts to keep and create jobs in Ukraine while representing the nation on an international scale. Their mission continues to focus on the betterment of Ukraine.

With London Fashion Week set to begin in just a matter of days, our focus turns to the talented designers nominated for the prestigious Fashion Awards of 2023 by the British Fashion Council. This year holds particular significance as it marks the 30th anniversary of the BFC NEWGEN, an initiative which supports the best emerging fashion design talent and aims to build global, high-end brands of the future. In honour of the anniversary, this year’s award will recognise a current BFC NEWGEN recipient. There are 5 categories currently announced, with a 6th one - Designer of the year, revealed in November. BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR GRACE WALES BONNER FOR WALES BONNER Founded by Grace Wales Bonner after her graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2014, this label draws inspiration from extensive cultural research and welcomes diverse viewpoints. Initially established as a menswear brand, Wales Bonner's heartfelt tailoring quickly evolved to include womenswear as well. KIKO KOSTADINOV FOR KIKO KOSTADINOV Kiko Kostadinov launched his own fashion brand in Spring/Summer 2016, featuring a collection inspired by uniforms and workwear. The Central Saint Martins graduate rapidly gained fame in the fashion world, known for his unique pattern cutting, precise garment making, and elegant designs. KIM JONES FOR DIOR MEN Kim Jones is no stranger in the fashion world, having started his journey back in 2003 with his eponymous label, later closing it down to work for Louis Vuitton, followed by Dior and Fendi as of right now. He has established himself as one of the most successful menswear designers currently. MARTINE ROSE FOR MARTINE ROSE Martine Rose is a label heavily influenced by hip hop, punk, reggae and dance music from the 90s, often showcasing their collections in very non-traditional spaces such as street markets and community gyms to further solidify the people and culture inspiration. STEVEN STOKEY-DALEY FOR S.S.DALEY Flirting with class ideologies, Daley, a working class boy from Liverpool, reinterprets the realm of British elitism via the institution of the British public school. "I think it's interesting, you know.. looking at codes, which historically belong to Harrow School for example, and figuring out their equivalents of the school culture I'm more familiar with." BRITISH WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR ERDEM MORALIOĞLU FOR ERDEM Erdem is a London-based independent fashion house producing womenswear. Established in 2005, the brand has carved out its unique identity embodying poetic and rigorous, timeless and versatile qualities. MAXIMILIAN DAVIS FOR FERRAGAMO Just over a year ago Maximilian Davis took over Ferragamo with the heavy task to resurrect the brand and attract a younger audience. Having worked with celebrities like Rihanna, Beyonce and Kim Kardashian, he had already built an arsenal of loyal customers willing to follow him on the journey of rediscovering the Ferragamo brand. NENSI DOJAKA FOR NENSI DOJAKA Albanian born Nensi Dojaka founded her eponymous brand soon after completing the MA program at Central Saint Martins in 2019. She was fortunate to have SSENSE (one of the biggest fashion retailers) buy her graduate collection, which catapulted her to fame and allowed her to keep producing more work. She's well known for producing contrasting outfits with sheer fabrics against matte black sensually hiding and exposing different parts of the body. ROKSANDA ILINČIĆ FOR ROKSANDA Roksanda is a well-established brand with over 10 years in business designing womenswear which questions traditional femininity and uses contrast with shapes, architectural sleeves, colour blocking and modern daring cuts to shape her ready-to-wear collections. SIMONE ROCHA FOR SIMONE ROCHA Simone Rocha is well known for the romanticism emanating from her work, with her use of pearls, tulle and embroidery. She draws inspiration from her heritage, art, history and literature, and often plays with the themes of identity and subversion, drawing inspiration from the past and twisting it into the modern world. NEW ESTABLISHMENT - MENSWEAR BIANCA SAUNDERS Bianca Saunders addresses the tension between tradition and modernity, as well as between the masculine and the feminine. She takes inspiration from her British and Jamaican background, bringing a multi-disciplinary attitude which cross references cultures into modern evolution of menswear. CORTEIZ Corteiz, also known as CRTZ, is a brand based in West London that has rapidly gained acclaim since its establishment in 2017. Founded by the mysterious Clint, this brand has become renowned for its tight-knit community and unconventional marketing strategies. Corteiz specializes in crafting a variety of clothing items, including hoodies, t-shirts, and track suits, all of which are exclusively available through the brand's password-protected website. LABRUM LONDON Founded in 2014, Labrum London is a modern-day menswear brand telling the untold stories of West Africa to help bridge the gap between western and West African culture. NICHOLAS DALEY Nicholas Daley's work is deeply rooted in community, craftsmanship, and culture. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2013, this London-based designer introduced his eponymous brand in 2015. His creative approach weaves together personal storytelling with broader themes related to the black British and diasporic experience. SAUL NASH Saul Nash is a designer, movement director and choreographer from North East London who over the past three years alone has been named an LVMH Prize semi-finalist, a NEWGEN recipient, a member of Highsnobiety’s THE NEXT 20 list, and most recently Recieved both the International Woolmark Prize 2022 & Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design in the Same Week. NEW ESTABLISHMENT – WOMENSWEAR CHOPOVA LOWENA The Shopova Lowena duo is a ready-to-wear label that blends Bulgarian handcraft aesthetics, vibrant '80s rock climbing gear, and a rebellious punk attitude. Their collection features a fusion of patchwork pleated kilts held up by robust leather belts, embroidered puff-sleeved dresses, and eye-catching kaleidoscopic knits. Chopova Lowena's diverse offerings are daring, energetic, and entirely unique in their style. DILARA FINDIKOĞLU Dilara Findikoglu is a London-based contemporary womenswear designer who showcases her seasonal collections at London Fashion Week. She holds a significant influence by combining subcultural elements and incorporating them with relevant and timely social commentary on feminism, religion, and politics. Her distinct and instantly recognizable perspective on luxury fashion has positioned her as one of today's most discussed creative talents, earning critical acclaim from numerous publications. KNWLS KNWLS is a London-based fashion brand led by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault. Founded in 2017 as Charlotte Knowles and rebranded in 2021, the label champions femininity as a sort of armor, drawing on lingerie and corsetry as the inspiration for its bold, sensual designs. ROBERT WUN The brand debuted their first runway show in Paris, January 2023, with the support of Bruno Pavlovsky at CHANEL. Robert became the first designer from Hong Kong to join the Haute Couture Calendar in its history, as a guest member of The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. The brand debuted their first runway show in Paris, January 2023, with the support of Bruno Pavlovsky at CHANEL. Robert became the first designer from Hong Kong to join the Haute Couture Calendar in its history. SUPRIYA LELE Supriya Lele is the creative force behind her eponymous label based in London. Her design ethos is profoundly influenced by her cross-cultural perspective, exploring her Indian heritage alongside her British cultural identity. Her creative process is distinctly feminine, weaving together a narrative that is nuanced and subtle, telling a captivating story through her work. MODEL OF THE YEAR ALTON MASON ANOK YAI KAI-ISAIAH JAMAL LIU WEN MONA TOUGAARD PALOMA ELSESSER

Starting on Monday, the 10th of July, the London College of Fashion, part of the University of the Arts London, kicked off five full days of events celebrating their undergraduate class of 2023. Taking place until Saturday at Protein Studios in east London, this event offers visitors an extraordinary opportunity to catch a glimpse into the future of fashion through various engaging activities presented by the LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023. These activities encompass design, film, photography, virtual reality (VR), and more. The comprehensive festival program is available on LCF's website, providing detailed information about all the events. Importantly, all events are free of charge, and individuals are welcome to drop in at their convenience. London College of Fashion, UAL, leads the world in fashion business, media and design education. They’ve been nurturing creative talent for over a century, offering courses in all things fashion. With a philosophy of open and inclusive education, they encourage students to examine the past and question the present. To develop inventive, assertive ideas that challenge social and political agendas. And they give them the skills, opportunities – and above all, the freedom – to put those ideas into practice. Photography by Sebastian Davies LCF’s annual undergraduate catwalk show kicked off the festivities with designs from 113 students from the BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear and BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear courses. The collections were presented in front of a packed audience of fashion industry insiders and guests including Dr Brenda Emmanus OBE, Christopher Raeburn, Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion and Luxury at Evening Standard, Harold Tillman CBE, Enterprise Business Advisor to LCF, Liam Osbourne, Managing Director of Dazed Studio and Arooj Aftab, Presenter and Inclusion Consultant. Andrew Teverson, Pro Vice-Chancellor and Head of London College of Fashion, UAL said: “We are delighted to present LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023; a physical celebration of how London College of Fashion, UAL students are changing the world through design, ideas and products that push the boundaries of fashion. The exhibition and associated programme of events bring together work from across all three of LCF’s schools to showcase the very best of our world leading business, communication and design courses. At LCF we believe fashion shapes lives, and key themes throughout this year’s show include sustainability and inclusivity, which demonstrates an unstoppable drive for the future of our industry to diversify and adapt to a rapidly changing world, which reflects our philosophy and dedication to an open, accessible and diverse education. I'd like to thank the entire LCF staff community who work tirelessly to teach, encourage and inspire our students across all of our courses. It is their dedication that brings to life our core philosophy of an open, accessible and diverse education. As we look ahead to our move to East Bank, a new powerhouse for innovation, creativity and learning in east London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park this September 2023, we are excited to realise the opportunities to showcase the work of our students all year round on a new global stage.”