The Metropolitan Museum of Art announced the title of the exhibition which will be running in New York City from the 10th of May through the 2nd of September 2024. “Sleeping Beauties - Reawakening Fashion” As we all know, the exhibition accompanies the Met Gala, one of the most exciting fashion events of the year, which this year is sponsored by TikTok, with the support of Loewe and Conde Nast. The vague title sent us all in a bit of a frenzy trying to reshuffle ideas in our heads, is this title relating to princesses or Disney fairytales. - Not quite, as we learned at the press conference from Curator in Charge Andrew Bolton and Met CEO Max Hollein. "The focus is on the question of, 'What happens to an object when it enters our collection, which basically transforms it from a garment that was worn into an object that's being shown?'," ”Approximately 250 items drawn from the Costume Institute’s permanent collection—some very rarely seen in public before—will be displayed in an entirely new way. Max Hollein, The Met’s Marina Kellen French Director and CEO, said: “The Met’s innovative spring 2024 Costume Institute exhibition will push the boundaries of our imagination and invite us to experience the multisensory facets of a garment.” He added: “‘Sleeping Beauties’ will heighten our engagement with these masterpieces of fashion by evoking how they feel, move, sound, smell, and interact when being worn, ultimately offering a deeper appreciation of the integrity, beauty, and artistic brilliance of the works on display.” Upon entering the exhibition, visitors will discover a sequence of self-contained galleries, each exploring a different theme inspired by the natural world. Within each space, historical fashions will be juxtaposed with their contemporary counterparts in an immersive environment intended to engage a visitor’s sense of sight, smell, touch, and hearing. The walls of one space will be embossed with the foliate, vegetal, and insectoid embroidery of an Elizabethan bodice; the floors of another will be animated with snakes that frame the neckline of an early 20th-century sequined dress; and the ceiling of another will be projection-mapped with a Hitchcockian swarm of black birds that encircle a black tulle evening dress designed by Madeleine Vionnet just before the outbreak of World War II. Punctuating the exhibition will be a series of “sleeping beauties”—garments that can no longer be dressed on mannequins due to their extreme fragility—that will be displayed in glass “coffins” allowing visitors to analyze their various states of deterioration as if under a microscope. Select “beauties” will be brought back to life by the illusion technique known as Pepper’s ghost. In collaboration with Andrew Bolton, photographer Nick Knight and SHOWstudio will lend their distinct vision to developing and realizing the various technological activations. Architecture firm Leong Leong will design the exhibition in collaboration with The Met’s Design Department. ST smell artist and researcher Sissel Tolaas will contribute her work with smell to bring select garments to life.
Over the past few years H&M has built a name for having some of the best fashion collaborations and hitting some of the biggest fashion news stories of the year. Having collaborated with names such as Balmain, Simone Rocha, Mugler, Moschino, and Karl Lagerfeld, they surely know how to keep shoppers on their toes who are desperately queuing from the early hours of the morning to grab their favourite items. This season the spotlight is on a H&M x Rabanne launch which comes just days after a star studded party they hosted in celebration of the iconic partnership. The collection is titled H&M x Rabanne - inspired by Paco Rabanne’s trailblazing vision born in the 60s with the use of strange materials, predominantly metals, which raised his brand to fame. There is a nostalgic yet fun and inclusive feel to the collection which allows everyone to kind of relate to this collection, even those without much of an interest of knowledge in high fashion; not to mention how perfect the party designs featuring metallic discs and chainmail are for the holiday season. For those of you who are already checking out your bank account, here’s the disappointing news - as of the time of writing this piece, most pieces of the collection have sold out, despite the heftier than usual price tags - currently side-eyeing a £550 metal mesh dress.
H&M Move’s new affordable winter performance wear for women and men drops online at hm.com/move from November 9 and December 28. The sportswear brand’s new Snow Collection is a multifunctional performance range designed to help more people find a route to the snow in 2023 and beyond. With its cost-effective price point, the collection makes mountain protection more accessible without compromising on function. The result is a fully integrated range of technical apparel offering both performance and style. "By introducing performance wear that balances function with highly fashionable snow gear, we want to inspire everyone to hit the mountains. Given the level of detailing and high-quality materials, this collection is taking our snow sports segment to the next level." says Mfon Boman, H&M Move's Outdoor Product Manager. True to the brand’s collaborative spirit, H&M Move designed the Snow Collection in collaboration with expert outdoor agency Grand Studio, following rigorous testing of H&M Move’s trademarked fabric innovations for performance. Innovations that include: 1. The windproof, waterproof, and breathable StormMove™ 2. The heat retaining ThermoMove™ 3. The quick-drying and moisture-wicking DryMove™ The collection will be split across men’s and women’s lines, offering a complete layering system with key pieces including oversized jackets, baggy snow pants, fitted ski trousers, non-quilted puffer jackets, and modern one-pieces. The men’s collection also offers a high-performance StormMove™ 3-layer shell set. Women’s colours will range from black and white to bright red for the first drop, with a combination of black and beige for the second. Men’s colours include black, grey, white, and purple. A range of accessories, including mittens and goggles, will also be available.
Matthieu Blazy unveiled the Bottega Veneta Pre-Spring 2024 collection and the internet is going wild. The trailblazing designer is continuing to create some of the most iconic fashion moments and we cannot get enough of it. One undeniable fact is that Blazy possesses a knack for contemporizing conventional silhouettes in both women's and men's fashion. His inventive utilization of fabrics and modern cutting techniques harmoniously come together to craft a contemporary androgynous style. Blazy envisions a world where women and men can confidently sport the same overcoats, blazers, sweaters, and more, with styling and form taking centre stage. His designs predominantly revolve around the concept of "everyday wear," reinforcing the notion that his creations are meant for day-to-day use. He recently shared his insights on the collection with Vogue, “With the team, we talked a lot about what makes individuals special, the pieces they wear and the pieces that tell a story—the pieces, sometimes, that are a bit off, something that feels very personal, what makes you different from others.” The inspiration for this collection traces back to a nostalgic trip to Matthieu Blazy's childhood home, where he explored his past wardrobe. He playfully transformed memories, such as the crab-print dress his sister once wore, into high-fashion sweaters and matching skirts. Other youthful recollections found their place in the form of oversized labels meticulously sewn onto tailored vests. This collection exudes a light-hearted spirit, featuring exaggerated lapels and innovative renditions of Bottega Veneta's iconic intrecciato pattern in vivid, contrasting colours. With the Pre-Spring 2024 collection, Blazy injects a sense of fun throughout, marking it as yet another remarkable season. Explore the collection above.
On the 16th of October we witnessed the final of the Real Leather. Stay Different. International Student Design Competition 2023, hosted at the Museo Nazionale Sciencze e Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci in Milan, the judges jointly awarded the overall winner title to Tamar Elbaz of Shenkar College, and Ana Del Rio Mullarkey of De Montford University. Real Leather. Stay Different. is a global campaign that has reached some 750 million people and hundreds of thousands of students. It makes the case for leather (and other natural materials) and for making the best use of society’s waste, particularly the hides that are the by-products of the dairy and meat industries, before looking to the petrochemical industries for manmade materials. Flexible and durable, leather is the natural alternative to fast fashion. Judge Christopher Koerber, Managing Director, HUGO BOSS Ticino, commented: "The designers of tomorrow bear the responsibility to lead the fashion world towards sustainability while still captivating audiences with innovative designs. Today, we saw that future come to life with two entries that stood-out. Both Tamar and Ana’s work exemplified this ideal, showcasing a harmonious blend of sustainability and creativity." Tamar Elbaz, a third-year Fashion Design student at Shenkar College of Design, Engineering and Art, in Tel Aviv, was recognised for ‘WHIM', inspired by Jean Hans Arp's 'Human Concretion’. It explores biomorphic themes, embodying rounded silhouettes and non-amorphic features. The project echoes Arp's sculpting style, transcending boundaries and evoking surrealism in the viewer. Ana Del Rio Mullarkey, a recent graduate in Fashion Design BA (Hons) from De Montfort University, was recognised for ‘El Domingo’ which offered the judges an outstanding hand-crafted design drawing inspiration from her Madrid upbringing. She presented a vision for the future of leather - delivering singular pieces that last, and are loved, for a lifetime and more. Celebrating the joint Award, Tamar commented: “I'm deeply honoured to receive this award with Ana. It recognises my dedication to sustainable design and my passion for authentic, sculpted materials like leather. This competition has not only provided recognition but also real learnings about the beauty and potential of natural materials." Ana added: “I am so happy that the people voted for me and that the judges recognised my enthusiasm for developing a more sustainable fashion future - and my absolute passion for using craft and innovation to create those items that people want, love and cherish – for a lifetime or more. It is a huge thrill to be awarded this prize with Tamar. Hopefully this marks the start of a leather revolution.” The award was presented by Carlo Capasa, President of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. Co-Chair of the Judges and Vice President of Wolverine Worldwide, Kerry Brozyna, commented: "It's imperative we continually reassess our material choices and production methods. With leather a by-product of the food industry, the decision becomes clear. As we tap into land resources for sustenance, it's our duty to utilise the by-products efficiently. Before resorting to fossil fuel derivatives, the focus should be on natural, enduring and eco-friendly materials." The awards, held with Lineapelle, UNIC, Arts Thread and the Institute of Digital Fashion featured four finalists, each an individual category winner - Tamar Elbaz (apparel winner, Shenkar College of Design, Engineering, and Art); Alida Xavier (accessories winner, Instituto Marangoni); Sara Veneziano (footwear winner, Accademia Costume & Moda) and Ana Del Rio Mullarkey (Peoples’ Choice. De Montfort University). They competed head-to-head with presentations and panel interviews to be crowned the overall international winner. The full judging panel comprised Christopher Koerber, Managing Director, HUGO BOSS Ticini; Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects at Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana; Gal Benjamin, the 2022 RLSD international winner; Leanne Elliott Young and Cattytay, Co-Founders of the Institute of Digital Fashion and Mike Adler, Style & Fashion Director.
FJU Talents is an annual platform showcasing emerging designers from Taiwan, sponsored by the College of Fashion and Textiles of Fu Jen Catholic University (FJU), a leading fashion and textile design education institute based in Taiwan. FJU Talents supports and nurtures the institute's talented alumni in the global fashion scene. This year, the show spotlighted four incredible emerging designer, along with a dynamic 10-look group show from the FJU Department of Textiles and Clothing. Chiang Wen Hsuan's ‘8c’ collection brought a refreshing take on contemporary fashion, featuring an intriguing blend of metallic elements, silver accents and daring sheer fabrics. Chiang Wen Hsuanis a graduate of Fu Jen Catholic University's Textile Design department. Sheseamlessly explores the realms of human psychology and biological transformations, weaving herunique perspective into her designs through the artful use of knitting, metallic accents, andfeminine silhouettes Allison Tsoi's ‘Allisonforsure’ collection featured unconventional cuts and silhouettes, playing with layers, dimensions, and cut-outs in a striking palette of blues and black. Allison Tsoi, a MA student at Fu Jen Catholic University's College of Fashion and Textiles,ingeniously harnesses the power of knitwear, crafting intricate patterns that symbolize the coreessence of her creative concepts. Tsoi’s SS24 collection ingeniously explores technology,individualism, and community, using optical illusions in her knitwear designs to symbolize themerging of virtual and real worlds Chen You Chen's ‘97.00005’ collection played with precision cuts, striking finishes and statement outerwear. Chen You Chen, a Fu Jen Catholic University Textile and Clothing Department graduate,passionately weaves the intricate interplay between individuals and the external world. Shemeticulously deconstructs and harmonizes elements layer by layer, resulting in garments withunique andunconventional tailoring. Chen Yi Xuan’s ‘Moo’ all-black collection crafted bold leather, intricate cuts, structured-designs and innovative silhouettes, including signature commanding bold shoulders. Chen Yi Xuan, a Fu Jen Catholic University BA Fashion Design graduate, explores life's interconnections, seeking its fundamental essence, attempting to locate life's edges, exploring its myriad possibilities, all the while driven by an endless wellspring of vitality. This is showcased in her latest collection exploring the ambivalence of human symmetrical unity.
UTOPIA_DYSTOPIA Show notes Utopia is a perfectly organised rational society, where no war exists, but piece and complete harmony of interests. The Meta Verse is an augmented reality, built by humans to recreate the real world, but in a perfect way. The moment we live in is a reflection of Dystopia. The human wants to arrive in Utopia, but it never could. In the attempt to reach Utopia, it has built a digital world disconnected from the reality of imperfection and confusion. The new BRVN collection in usual fashion is inspired by the military aesthetic of the brand, envisioned through the lens of streetwear.
The Dior brand is no stranger to attracting some of the biggest celebrity stars around the world and dressing them up in their custom and haute couture outfits.The SS24 collection was no different and as such, the celebrities alone deserve a separate article so we can go through what they are all wearing. To read our thoughts on the SS24 collection at Dior with Maria Grazia Chiuri, click here. Jisoo wore a Dior Spring-Summer 2024 black wool suit-dress with a Dior bag and shoes. Jenna Ortega wore a Dior Winter 2023-2023 blue cotton jacket and skirt with a black knit top and bra. She also wore a Dior bag, jewels and shoes. She wore ROSE DES VENTS necklaces, earrings and rings in white gold and onyx, pink gold and mother-of-pearls & diamonds of Dior Joaillerie. Anya Taylor-Joy wore a Dior black patent leather jacket with black wool and silk shorts. Jennifer Lawrence wore a Dior Cruise 2024 white cotton shirt with a black velvet skirt. Rosalia wore a Dior Spring-Summer 2024 white cotton shirt with a black wool and silk dress. She also wore Dior shoes. APO wore a Dior Winter 2023-2024 men’s collection black wool cardigan jacket, a black silk muslin tank top with belt, black silk kilted shorts, black CD diamond embroidered socks and black leather rainboots.
The new ready-to-wear collection at Dior was dreamed up by the creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, starting from a reflection on the meaning of the present, in which both past and future must coexist simultaneously. In this collection, as in previous ones, Maria Grazia Chiuri, explores the relationship between femininity and feminism, driven by the conviction that fashion has, more than ever, a responsibility to help women realise their worth and express their differences. She is therefore interested in all the rebels who have asserted their independence in the face of a masculine world and challenged its system. Throughout the show we are presented with references from the early Dior womenswear days, straight back to Christian Dior’s iconic bar jacket from the “New Look”, reinvisioned featuring bold buttons, a slightly oversized look cinched at the waist with a belt, wide shoulders, almost taking inspiration from male military looks to further solidify her idea. Scattered throughout the collection are inspirations from the famous Galliano era at the house, especially recognisable in the off shoulder dresses, some of the jewellery, and even shoes. The colour palette is limited, predominantly featuring colours of ash, chamomile and the colour of what is called love potions in the show notes.The Mille-fleurs, emblematic of Dior, is transformed into a dark motif, a contrasting floral X-ray. Phases of the moon, suns announcing the seasons, medicinal herbs and fantastical animals are all part of this iconic design, and of the embroidery also at times. The monumental, immersive NOT HER art piece, by Elena Bellantoni, perpetuates this refusal of all the clichés that confine women to predefined categories. The video installation, occupying all the walls of the show’s scenography, uses the analog split-flap device: we see a succession of female figures (including the artist herself) reworked by Elena Bellantoni, in a pop spirit, using imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases to respond to the dominant stereotype: "it’s not her, she’s no longer all that” . This new collection thus restores the idea that the body/clothing relationship is set in the context of the times and not in the time of one day or nostalgia.
The Algorithmic Modular System (1) is comprised of base layers (10), components (100) and extra components (1000). These numeric values draw inspiration from Tao Te Ching, written by Laozi, the founder of Taoism. In the 42nd chapter it says "Tao breeds one, one breeds two, two breeds three, and three breeds everything". In this ancient philosophy, Taozi explains how everything in the world is formed, from nothing to one, from one to many. The Algorithmic Modular System [AMS], created by JE Cai, follows the same ideology. From one system it breeds infinite possibilities. To assemble your products, attach and detach Basics (10), Components (100) or Extra Components (1000) by using the fastening mechanisms located on the connecting points. From zippers to buttons, these fastening mechanisms are elegant in design and allow you to personalise your own uniform. After introducing the foundation structure of the brand’s Algorithmic Modular System (AMS), This season's developments further explore the possibilities of various component parts, introducing new detachable functions. The addition of a lighter colour palette and softer, more casual shapes and draping, is a notable movement, effecting a sense of balance in the collection as a whole, while maintaining the brand’s signature uniformity and playing with existing contradictions in the system. This collection is about collating and developing signature components as focal points. Experimental and rebellious in its nature, JE Cai is tailored for the modern intellectual. Jiean worked on this collection with a clear vision of the JE Cai woman and the different stages of her day in mind. Producing interchangeable uniform components that comprise of buildable look, the brand’s intention is to take the wearer from day into night.
APUJAN is a London-based womenswear label founded by the designer Apu Jan, which officially debuted in AW13 during London Fashion Week. The designs are renowned for integrating patterns and knitwear techniques to illustrate themes inspired by fantasy and literature. This season, the designer is returning to LFW with a physical runway show after a three-year hiatus, presenting their latest SS24 collection titled ‘The Casebook of Kaiju’ APUJAN successively released six fashion show videos and collaborated with numerous Asian actors and celebrities for special performances. This year, APUJAN returns to London, partnering with an international fashion team to present the collection in a physical catwalk once again. The show is titled “The Casebook of Kaiju”, and set for the show was the historical Somerset House. A variety of fine-knit garments, evening gowns, sports and leisurewear, printed dresses, shirts and even menswear looks were presented. Some of the more prominent pieces were: The opening look which featured a relaxed pink long coat, with hot pink pockets, worn with white trainers, with the face of the model hidden under a mask of flowers. Look 5 which consisted of a two-piece light blue outfit with skeleton arm prints all over. The vest is cut into multiple panels which are then connected together with thick fabric almost like a shoelace to create this body complimenting cinched silhouette. “The Casebook of Kaiju” is a collection inspired by the evening of a monster’s arrival, the anticipation of the people who are about to witness it, and is a reference to a new modern and different era. Those references can be seen throughout the show, with symbolic elements such as barriers, ships and the ocean, forests, tanks, news reports and many others.