With the new runway show at Moschino, we just had the displeasure of witnessing, comes the nostalgia of the iconic collections that the previous creative director Jeremy Scott brought to life. For those of you who have not been keeping up with the news from the fashion house, please find the three images below for proof of the statement above. While it isn't fair to judge a new creative director by their first collection at a fashion house, this one just felt extremely lost with a lack of narrative or creativity, and is a reminder of the creative genius of Jeremy Scott.
Marques Almeida returned to London Fashion Week and presented their newest collection based around the idea of discovery and exploration. The brand has tirelessly tried to keep reinventing itself as the fashion world has adapted to moving faster than ever before and has recently launched REM'ADE out of surplus materials - a social responsibility and environmental manifesto earned from artisans through M’AKERS, had models walk through suspended bridges over the mountains and over the ocean, published See-Through to enhance community and radical empathy, united the Porto young creative community and welcomed M’A Kids into their diverse family of people. The collection reflects new explorations of volume in heavy satin, structured shapes in outerwear, extreme, sometimes couture like, developments with frills and organza and classic M’A shapes in newer lustrous brocades.
Bevza unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection during New York Fashion Week. To read our SS24 coverage, click here . Continuing the Ukrainian heritage exploration, Bevza delves deeper into Ukrainian roots using grain as representation of culture and resilience. The collection pays homage to Ukraine's significance as one of the world's largest grain producing countries. Elegance is at the heart of the brand's ethos which each season brings out timeless pieces that surpass the mere trends we so often see on the runway. The aesthetic of the collection is rooted in the stability and clarity of the square shape - an architectural form prominently featured across all Bevza collections. The coats feature an A-shape cut, drawing inspiration from the traditional 19th-century Ukrainian coat known as the 'Kozukh.' In a commitment to supporting Ukrainian artisans, the 'Kozukh' coat is meticulously crafted from sheepskin, while the 'Tisto' vest (Ukrainian for dough) is hand-knitted to highlight the raw bread texture, incorporating the 'Kosa' bread pattern (Ukrainian for braid). Bevza's signature grain motif, previously seen in spikelet jewelry and bag hardware, now plays a dual role as both a clothing clasp holder and a highlight in their latest jewelry collection. This fresh take on the grain theme adds a refined and cohesive touch to Bevza's designs, creating a stylish narrative that effortlessly bridges fashion and nature. Team: Producer - MAKSYM NEKRASOV Style - SVITLANA BEVZA Line up stylist - ALINA KOTSIUBA Casting - BARBARA PFISTER Soundtrack - NASTIA VOGAN Photography - MARIE NICOLE AND FRANK WITHERS
In a mediaeval and atmospheric setting, Mithridate’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection Vita Aeterna, was brought to life. This season, Creative Director, Demon Zhang, explores themes of individual existence and diverse forms of coexistence between humans and nature in three parts: Time, Identity and Fate. Commencing with the theme of Time, notable elements encompass opulent velvets, metallic finishes, embellished embroidery, and intricate three-dimensional floral patterns. Shifting to Identity, the creative inspiration derives from enigmatic marine creatures bathed in crimson, coral pink, and rose gold, incorporating leather weaves, meticulously hand-cut flowers, chain hardware, and intricate rhinestone embellishments. The concluding concept, Fate, centers around cool moonlight tones reminiscent of shattered glass, effortlessly blending surreal elements into modern fashion, all the while reflecting on the interplay between fantasy and destiny. The brand continues to embrace the "More is More," spirit, with Mithridate’s iconic Moth motif threaded throughout via pattern, accessories and shape. Meanwhile, elements such as juniper, beetles, coral and bees, are skillfully integrated into the stitching with both innovative and artisan techniques, as well as mimicking the human body, forming a metaphorical representation of the complex connection between the body, nature and life. Highlights Highlighting some standout pieces from the collection, notable looks include an asymmetrically cut embellished jacket in black and silver, complemented by a floor-length scarf in deep sea blue wrapped around the neck. Another striking ensemble features a metallic gold gown adorned with meticulously hand-cut flowers. Additionally, there is a captivating set featuring a zip-up deep blue jacket adorned with floral motifs, paired with a mermaid tail skirt that gracefully follows the body's contours and extends out, creating an intricate and flowing silhouette.
On the opening night of London Fashion Week, the designer Kanika Goyal presented his new collection for KGL titled “Arc Echo”. It explores fragmented memories and identity, through interweaving past and future experiences, while playing with the principle of paradox. Arc Echo is brought to life through a visual London Fashion Week presentation. Perspex, mesh and vinyl immortalise the passage of time; showcasing the disparity between our past and future selves. Channeling perceptions within the dream realm, obscured acrylic screens fuse identities through a lineup of 16 key looks. Tasked with exploring what it means to look at multiple versions of oneself, the collection is inspired by the transformative qualities of dreams, evoking a familiar sense of déjà vu’. Garments fuse bold design and primary colours, interweaving different facets of one’s personality to create a whole piece. Mosaic knits illustrate the complexity within our memories, bold, bright and pop-art in nature. A juxtaposition of harmony and chaos, rich inner worlds are reflected through hybrid blazers, jacquard knits and weaved denim. An ode to the designers fascination with human psychology, Arc Echo connects a disarray of thoughts and experiences through beautiful design, artistry and colour. Innovation and collaboration is key, questioning the rigid notions of tailoring with a considered approach to materials. Fabrics honour Indian craftsmanship, uplifting local artisans in New Delhi for embroidery excellence. Surplus fabrics from mills are repurposed, uniting the old and new in a nod to Kanika’s heritage and upbringing. Jackets and trousers are weaved from thin strips of deadstock denim, dresses are patched from unused pieces. Materials honour past collections, sharing resources to reduce environmental footprint. A hero, upcycled, denim two-piece is personified by its stand-out mosaic nature. Quality belts, bags, accessories and trims are crafted in surplus leather offcuts, procured from remaining factory stock. Kanika provocatively infuses deep values of circularity, repurposing and social uplift into the creative process. Stereotypes and perception are deconstructed with a free-spirited attitude to fit and design. Experimenting with laminated crushed leather, cracked-bonded and creased taffetas see’s a fresh take on traditional shirting. The jewel in the collection is the ‘Gurmukhi’ dress; an intricate, fully embellished, shattered design with the brand monogram presented through the sacred Gurmukhi alphabet.
Haute Couture is arguably one of the most extravagant events that take place in Paris and mark the beginning of Women’s Fashion Week across the globe. Show stopping dresses making headlines and taking over our social media feeds are leaving us gasping for air, especially after a glance at the pricetag of these remarkable creations of fashion. You can also check out our article - What celebrities wore to Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Schiaparelli Elsa Schiaparelli’s uncle Giovanni Schiaparelli discovered a series of channels, scoring the surface of Mars, and was the director of the Brera Observatory, in Milan. With that, she had an unhidden interest in Astrology which she often referenced through her work. This alien aesthetic is the inspiration for the Spring/Summer couture collection designed by Daniel Roseberry. It’s “a study in contradictions — of legacy and the avant-garde, of the beautiful and the provocative, of the earthbound and the heaven-sent. The result are a series of profiles both familiar and not — part human, part something else. And, therefore, totally Schiaparelli. “ - Daniel Roseberry. Vaishali S Vaishali S Couture Spring-Summer 2024 is a celebration of freedom of expression and individualism. Three seasons ago Vaishali became the first Indian woman invited to showcase at Haute Couture Week in Paris, and her work has become a strong turn point in this cycle. This new season is the realisation that there is no distinction between nature and human, human is a part of nature, and this is shown through the gowns which remind us of foliage, intricately cut and sewn into fabric which beautifully curves around the body. Dior Artist Isabella Ducrot’s installation, Big Aura , adorns the walls of the room hosting the presentation of the Dior haute couture collections in the Rodin Museum gardens. The designer decided to trace aura through the House’s haute couture history which embodies the essence of fashion and ultimate excellence. The La Cigale dress – designed by Christian Dior for autumn-winter 1952 – evokes the sacredness of the Atelier through its sculptural construction and moiré fabric, thus becoming the starting point for a theory that recontextualizes couture. A fragile boundary between art and life. Black velvet dresses sublimate the look, flowing in motion, while a sumptuous feather cape rests on an embroidered double organza dress. The embroidery is like fragments of ancient poems unearthed, leading the imagination to meander. Rahul Mishra Giambattista Valli Alexis Mabille Departing from his usual vibrant jewel tones, Mabille delved into a refined colour palette featuring ivory, ballet pink, beige, moiré bronze, and brown, with strategic accents of black and red for added dramatic flair. This understated array of hues served as a backdrop for Mabille's intricate embellishments, showcasing all-over tone-on-tone embroideries, sequins, ostrich feathers, and his iconic oversized bows. The runway presentation commenced with a series of architectural gowns, characterized by meticulous tailoring and captivating draping. Crêpe and satin were skilfully transformed into sculptural masterpieces, gracefully embracing the female figure. The collection exuded elegance and charm, enhanced by asymmetrical necklines, billowing puff sleeves, and delicate lace embellishments that infused a sense of whimsy and romance. Julien Fournie Ronald van der Kemp Zuhair Murad Valentino Robert Wun
The British Fashion Council recently announced the official schedule for London Fashion Week taking place in February between the 15th and 20th of the month. Below you will find the designers we are most excited for this season. CSM Central Saint Martins asserts itself as one of the pinnacles of fashion schools with students flying in from all over the world. It holds a steady position on the list of noteworthy shows to anticipate, offering a sense of innovation and curiosity as you observe the entrance of each successive model on the runway. Notable fashion designers who have passed through its halls include: KWK by Kay Kwok This futuristic brand embarks on its journey of experimental expression and creates some really intriguing shapes and silhouettes. JW Anderson The fashion label offers a modern take on masculinity and femininity, and over the past 15 years it has become popular for it's bold silhouettes and references. Dilara Findikoglu This Turkish - British designer has taken over our social media feeds in the past few months with many celebrities wearing her outfits to movie premieres and casual nights out. Richard Quinn Edward Crutchley Masha Popova
Step into the vibrant realm of Paris Fashion Week, where the fashion landscape undergoes a radical evolution. This season, a seismic shift is palpable, steering away from the transience of trends and steering toward a renewed emphasis on luxury, quality, and timeless allure. We've handpicked the coolest coats to add to your wardrobe today, from the runways of favourites like Louis Vuitton, Amiri, Dior, Valentino, and other global trendsetters. At the Dior menswear show we find two interesting coats - one is a more utilitarian but with extended sleeves, the second has an embellishment across the waist which is a new take on menswear bringing it into a more genderless space. The two coats below from the Givenchy show are equally beautiful and unique in their own rights - one has an amazing texture with the lace reproduced using a wool type of outerwear material; and the second has an incredible cut bringing in a powerful silhouette. Martine Rose Hermes Loewe It clearly never rains or snow at the Loewe runway shows as most models had forgotten to wear a shirt under their Winter coats. This however, doesn't stop the individual pieces from looking incredible - one of them is a more daring response with a crochet floor length jacket, and the other being a more subtle oversized at the shoulders black coat. Dries Van Noten Paul Smith
Arguably one of the most anticipated fashion shows of the global men's schedule is at Louis Vuitton, and all the eyes are on Pharrell WIlliams, who is presenting his third collection for the superbrand. Upbeat tribal music opened up the show and models started walking down the runway, which was set in a Mid-West village in the mountains during Winter time. Gigantic Louis Vuitton trunks were wheeled throughout the collection showcasing new colour combinations of the season. Of particular interest were heavily ornamented pieces throughout the collection and their more utilitarian and formal aesthetic, silky shirts, blazers and jacket, taking the Louis Vuitton brand away from the streetwear realm that it so conveniently inhabited for the past 8 years. Double denim was featured on multiple instances during the collection which references workwear, and as a styling component, there were chain necklaces and big pendants with a huge LV monogram. To create a bit more a silhouette, and break the double denim, the looks are styled with brown leather belts, brown leather jackets, or bags. Titled Paris x Virginia, it is an interesting clash between high European luxury and more traditional and classical Western fashion which was trying to fit in between tailored suits with sneakers and fur coats with Charleston trousers and cowboy boots.
Banke Kuku Is a Nigerian brand which at the end of October presented their Spring/Summer collection titled "Eden". A runway show in Victoria Island, Lagos, marks a new direction for the brand, focusing on craftsmanship whilst elevating the mainline with new seasonal prints. The collection is inspired from Lagos' stunning fauna and flora which the designer - Banke, will admire while on her near-meditative morning walks. It draws on classic silhouettes that effortlessly accentuate the female figure. Eden SS24 features an array of styles. A few of the more interesting pieces in the collection are a pair of relaxed trousers and a top, with a cape featuring a stunning purple and white print of flowers and hummingbirds; a long yellow silky gown with a velvet trimming, styled with ombre silky monogram shorts; for men - a relaxed co-ord look featuring a relaxed silky blazer in a leaf pattern in contrasting blue and green styled with relaxed trousers and loafers in the same pattern. Nature serves as a consistent theme in both the prints and designs of Banke Kuku's collections. Intertwined with the brand's ongoing commitment to impactful work. Through the platform 'Prints for Purpose,' Banke actively supports local causes like the Nigerian Conservation Foundation, contributing donations to preserve natural wildlife in Nigeria. The prints in the collection narrate captivating stories of plants and animals native to Nigeria, such as hummingbirds whispering to Bougainvillea or ladybirds amid the Yellow Trumpet, Nigeria's national flower. The brand's new signature monogram features colors inspired by natural elements—earth, water, fire, and air. This fusion of nature and creativity defines Banke Kuku's unique approach to fashion, reflecting both style and a commitment to environmental causes. You can purchase the EDEN collection online at www.bankekuku.com , farfetch.com, modaoperandi.com, and Threads.com. Additionally, the collection will be available in-store at B1–B3, 2 Alexander Road, Ikoyi Lagos, and Galeries Lafayette Doha. About the designer: Now Lagos-based, Banke Kuku studied her craft in London, graduating from the prestigious Chelsea College of Art and Design and Central Saint Martins before returning to her native Nigeria. From Lagos, she has built an impressive repertoire as a leading designer, dressing A-listers and creatives, including Gabrielle Union, Davido, Naomi Campbell, and Kelly Rowland. Dedicated to amplifying the beauty and intricacies of African culture and practices, Banke has been a prominent voice on the world stage. In June 2023, Kuku was a guest judge on the BBC One’s programme The Great British Sewing Bee, sharing traditional West African sewing values with the contestants and viewers, and her work has been featured in Vogue, WWD and Marie Claire.
Milan Fashion Week! Embrace the tranquillity – In a world filled with ceaseless bustle and noise, Simon Cracker presents “La Nanna,” a collection that offers a departure from the chaos and a tranquil state of mind. Inspired by the magic moment just before falling asleep, where reality blurs and consciousness drifts, these pieces encapsulate the essence of this serene interlude. Drawing from James Joyce’s concept of the stream of consciousness, “La Nanna” embraces the art of upcycling not as an end but as a tool to weave intricate narratives. Channelling the sentiments expressed in Banana Yoshimoto’s ‘Asleep,’ the collection’s faded colour palette and ethereal textures reflect the theme of protection and self-care. Garments crafted with the upcycling technique exude a weathered elegance, as old sequins and silvery paints evoke the impression of dust or raindrops. Traditional men’s tailoring, a cornerstone of the brand’s DNA, is imbued with a sense of softness, mirroring the subtle patina of time. Pearls cascade from felted fabrics and vintage bed sheets, evoking the gentle illumination of moonlight. Notably, the collection features denim pieces hand-printed by Sue Clowes, infusing the garments with a dreamy vision. Simon and Filippo, the creative minds behind the collection, emphasize that true rebellion lies not only in knowledge but also in kindness, offering a message of serenity and compassion.