#Fashion

Albarella returns with his signature critique of masculinity’s norms by orbiting the concept of Alien Nation. In response to far-right Italian Prime Minister’s recent dress-code restrictions for parliamentarians, the SS24 collections observes masculine attires as they oscillate between the 9 ‘til 5 worlds of ‘Gang Banking’ and the lunar constellations of a nightly after-work-life. Silk velvet worked in bias mocks political dualities which distract us away from the flamboyant possibilities of elegant attires serving both night and day aesthetics. Feel yourself free to leave the WFH office in your boxers to dive into the silvery glitter transparencies of a wildly queer night out. Monochrome on monochrome is just an invite to look at the nuances of things, and Albarella’s irony is often found in the detail: a Murrell Knot Tie that bears the iconic buckle elements that bind concepts to an unapologetically dissident style. Always joining and subverting ideas of masculinity, these Alienated conditions of labour and attire remind us of what we carry with us across our daily lives. Bring with you a Garment Bag to change suits at will. Please don’t forget the Cherry Bag either, after all, you gotta make sure to have some balls to make money. The Bulge Bag is revisited too, the polite cut of suit trousers meekly banters the ‘package’ being served here. Things are getting serious in this jokes world of labour. Just enjoy yourself henny.​

Noki returns to London Fashion Week for SS24 featuring the Tin Can Custom Crew & the Super Scratch Sunday's, a fully working art installation investigating what is NESTT. This is a sustained work in progress process between stylist Kim Howells, hairdresser Nick Irwin and the textile collage artist Noki Custom NHSt. Each element brings forth their own unique creative process to produce a show that the Noki NESTT student will academically adopt by blueprint custom replication to better forward these sustainable processes to push the evolution of the sustainable expression for the future of this 21st Century style. In this NESTT Mash Up mix, Nick Irwin brings his many years of international Schwarzkopf hair excellence with his own unique teaching process, exposing on the runway for the first time the foundations of how to build a hair colour and cut for deep follicle NESTT experimentation. The rave waits for absolutely nobody as dominated by the JBL handheld freedom speakers by the Tin Can Crew, interacting with the static Super Scratch Sunday's scratchers creating a unique audience audio experience, sourcing for that sweet spot mash up /sound clash. International stylist, creative director Kim Howells brings her cherry on top PROCESS, coordinating these raw Noki NESTT manifestations on a cast of community street muses for her NESTT catwalk 2024 runway show. Not until you own your own unique PROCESS can you proceed with originality and authenticity.

This season, JU-NNA draws inspiration from water and the mesmerizing waves created in water on rivers, seas and lakes. The concept intertwines the artistic essence of London’s fashion scene with the elegance and tranquility of Japanese design, resulting in a unique fusion of cultural influences. Viewers are invited to explore a world where traditional Japanese Shibori craftsmanship meets cutting-edge design, offering a unique and captivating experience. In this JU-NNA collection, the exploration of water's playful essence, the rhythmic dance of sea waves, and the intricate fusion of delicate fabrics with expert craftsmanship takes center stage. The opening look is a delicate bright jumpsuit relaxed worn atop of a body-fitted mesh long-sleeve top, which creates an interesting silhouette built on contrast. As the collection progresses we see this abundance of textures created from similar fabrics which beautifully morph and reflect the light giving it an easy-going, yet sophisticated feel and look. JU-NNA was founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, an Instituto Marangoni fashion design womenswear graduate. The brand focuses on fusing conventional Japanese techniques with contemporary and modern design, drawing inspiration from the designer's prior work in the Japanese kimono industry and Tokyo Fashion. Through collaboration with Asianartisans, Jun incorporates traditional Japanese Shibori into his collections, giving a time-honored tradition a fresh and unique look.

Bosideng, the world’s largest down jacket manufacturer, pushed boundaries in weightless down outerwear technology at their runway show during Milan Fashion Week at La Vigna di Leonardo, with appearances by Global Brand Ambassador Eileen Gu, supermodel Coco Rocha, and actress Leighton Meester. Coco Rocha Drawing inspiration from the Italian Renaissance and La Vigna di Leonardo’s architecture, Bosideng’s collection infused elements of Chinese and Italian cultures. The show was set amidst natural pathways and preserved Milanese charm, featuring themes of Leonardo da Vinci's visions. The collection redefined weightless down jackets as "Versatile, Weightless, Warm, Contemporary," breathing possibilities into Chinese and Italian cultures. Eileen Gu , Chinese American Freestyle Skier and Global Brand Ambassador of Bosideng, wears the new jacket, marking her debut on the runway for a Chinese clothing brand: “Bosideng has elevated weightless down jackets to new heights, revealing to me a world of untapped possibilities." Sharing the runway was international supermodel Coco Rocha. Bosideng’s front row featured renowned Chinese actresses Caiyu Yang and Zhuzhu, alongside actress Leighton Meester, known from her iconic presence in the Gossip Girl television series, all bearing witness to creativity and innovation in Chinese fashion. Leighton Meester Technical innovations explore floral interlocking textures adorning pieces with intricate handcrafted techniques, breaking away from traditional "rib-like" stitching. Bosideng featured esteemed Italian lace craftsmanship and traditional Su embroidery from China, investing a minimum of 500 hours of craftsmanship in each piece. Bosideng features internationally certified goose down with 700+ fill, creating outerwear both lighter and warmer than traditional down apparel. Simultaneously, three key lightweight warmth technologies were upgraded, integrating proprietary heat and moisture balance patent systems, the introduction of exclusive high-stretch fabrics, and heat feedback technologies. These achievements signify breakthroughs in crafting versatile attire suitable for all seasons across various scenarios and lifestyles. Since 1976, Bosideng has dedicated themselves to down outerwear; this relentless commitment has earned them global recognition, certified by Euromonitor International as the world's largest down jacket manufacturer.

Fashion Scout's SS24 Future Collective Catwalk Show takes centre stage during London Fashion Week's off-schedule events, celebrating and empowering emerging talents in fashion and accessories worldwide. Renowned for its remarkable ability to showcase a diverse and innovative array of designers, this show has garnered significant media acclaim. Join us at London Fashion Week as we present a curated selection of three exceptional emerging designers' SS24 collections, promising an unforgettable experience. Maximilian Raynor is a recent graduate from Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion course. Over thepast two years the Derbyshire-born designer has garnered substantial press, editorial and celebrity interest in their designs, dressing music artists Shy girl, Ellie Goulding and Rita Ora among many others. Raynor’s graduate collection, titled ‘The Ballad of Two Lovers’ premiered with Perfect Magazine, was featured in both British and Italian Vogue and walked the runway in Rwanda for a show hosted by King Charles III. Notable featuresof the collection include ThePirelli Calendar styled by Amanda Harlech and on Stefflon Don for the Platinum Jubilee Concert at Buckingham Palace. Kim Perets , the Tel-Aviv couture maven, seamlessly blends laser-cut technology withhandcrafted ingenuity, crafting innovative garments from unconventional materials. After trainingwith industry luminaries in New York and Amsterdam, she launched her eponymous brand,making waves with her debut collection at Tel Aviv's alternative fashion week.Perets transcendstraditional gender boundaries, envisioning fashion as a means of self-expression, as opposed tomere coverage. Her designs celebrate authenticity and comfort in one's skin, a testament to theartistry of clothing. Gazal Mishra , an engineering graduate who boldly embarked on her fashion journey in 2015,established her eponymous brand as a celebration of the synergy between passion and purpose.Committed to empowering local artisans and craftsmen, her brand evolved into a haven ofcreativity and cultural heritage. With a steadfast dedication to sustainable fashion, Gazal Mishraseamlessly weaves intricate artistry with environmental consciousness, harmonizing elegancewith ethicalvalues and redefining fashion innovation, one organic stitch at a time.

Welcome home. It’s been here all along. T LABEL, a romantic wear brand, wants you to feel loved in your own skin, in your own shell. In the modern storms of nature, humans are prone to alienation. From the spaces we inhabit, tangible and digital dimensions to the flesh, no matter where we are, it sometimes feels strange. In their SS24 collection, ‘A Shell for a Human’, T LABEL examines relationships with what hosts our spirit, whether it’s a body or a house. What originally revokes the warmth of a primordial womb can easily be reinterpreted as the opposite under traumatic circumstances. T LABEL looks at our connection to the physical with empathy and affection, teaching us how to shelter ourselves once again. The SS24 collection explores the idea of a shell through forms and materials: beads sculpted around the head and arms act as upper body protection in the form of a turtleneck, the brand’s cult gloves wrap hands with sheer organza, words ‘Fashion Week Gives Me Anxiety’ spread across the statement skirt. “The show explores the human body as a shell and what my shell means to me. After having my first anxiety attack last October before our Paris show, I found the sensitivity of our bodies and how precious they are fascinating. I wanted to use the opportunity of showing this collection to be more honest about what it means to be a self-funded designer in this industry and the financial pressures of taking part in fashion week with small amounts of resources.” Taylor-Bea Gordon, Founder and Creative Director The variety of dresses, tops and bottoms reflects the diverse possibilities of what our ‘outer layers’ can be like, which are inspired by natural shapes and interior design. Vase holder bags bloom with flowers, celebrating the inside-out growth, the result of cultivating the shells. Deadstock and upcycled materials, passed from one artist to another in the name of creation, emphasise the concept of a shared, mobile home for humanity. T LABEL’s safe haven introduces a transcendently organic colour palette: brown, black, beige, green, pearl and crystal clear. Crawling back into ourselves, we invite the earth to join us.

Comfort. Solace. Light. Utopia. Samuel Slattery’s SS24 collection takes a vehement turn back to a desire for sweetness. Talismans for the soul. Pastel wools, large checks, and louche shorts that recall something a child might be forced to wear by their parents on a chilly February morning. The Breton ermine symbol continues from his MA collection on a draped long-sleeve top, offering protection to those who wear it. His signature technique — snake-skin like latticino ribbons — takes the shape of a long off-white polo and an asymmetric tunic. Hundreds of metres of bias binding individually tacked one by one into a delicate protective web. This mirrors his innovative take on aran cable knitwear, in a pink ombre cape hoodie entirely hand-knit with an intricate Celtic protective band. This subtlety extends to his continued exploration of fluid pattern cutting - waistbands fall off trousers, a belt grows from the front of a long tux, and the ribbing of a supersized tee transforms into a bow. The restraint of his tailoring is offset by the freedom of abstract painting. One look is swathed in tones of green and violet, which Slattery painted using fingers only, no brush involved. Larger than life bow bags are crafted from velvety linens and licked with tonal paint that look like a carpenter’s hand-wiped marks. The short film art directed by Theo White and shot by Cesare Fraticelli follows a boy in his sullen bedroom navigating the throes of heartbreak. A coming-of-age meditation on loss, sensuality, and eternal hope. On finding’s one’s true love, and just maybe, heaven.

Photographer : Nona Duch

For their AW23 collection, JAAF used 70s soundtracks as inspiration, it is the tribute to this dynamic era fueled by female music icons such as Diana Ross, Barba Stresand and Stevie Nicks that the collection is dedicated to. Artists who undoubtedly left their mark on musical history through their uninhibited beauty and allure. JAAF wanted to capture their spirit using eclectic pairings, funky prints and bright colours but with a modern twist. "Our love for colour and print will never change, and the 70s gave us an incredible number of vibrant inspirations", explains Aleksandra, founder of the brand. The collection consists of 15 vivid garments, including a pussy-bow dress, a masculine suit, a lace-trimmed slip dress, and flared pants paired with a matching top. JAAF lookbook also includes a range of fun and playful day-to-night dresses. The hero of the collection is an oversized coat in a bold wavy pattern. The campaign was shot by Jack Grange on a perfect backdrop - a modernist house from 1969. The brand continues to combine style with environmental awareness, paying attention to every detail. For example, in the AW23 collection, JAAF uses only the sustainable Corozo buttons. All JAAF pieces are produced with longevity in mind, using solely natural and plant-based fabrics, such as silk and viscose. The majority of materials used in its collections are organic, certified, or low-impact. Every single piece is made in Poland, which allows the label to control the quality of its garments and ensure fair wages for the people who create them. In their transparency efforts, JAAF has partnered with Green Story, a platform that enables them to measure and offset their carbon footprint. Furthermore, JAAF donates 1% of their revenue to three carefully chosen NGOs.

HELEN KIRKUM presents ‘Cobbled Together’, a warm welcome into the eclectic world of HELEN KIRKUM debuting a range of bags, new footwear silhouettes and home accessories. Taking a step back from demonstrating their signature making process, the brand highlighted the eco-system that surrounds their products by showcasing their upcoming sneakers and accessories in an immersive home environment accompanied by statement furniture and apparel made by other change-makers in their community. With looks featuring past season and vintage pieces by friends of the brand, HELEN KIRKUM’s house featured three separate vignettes filled with vibrant textures and tactile products. Photography by Bernhard Deckert “It’s really important for me to show that our products come to life when they’re worn. Footwear and accessories don’t exist in a vacuum, so I wanted to celebrate the incredible community of designers that share our values to create an authentic wardrobe of meaningful pieces that complement the handcrafted and tactile nature of our products.” Guests were encouraged to step inside and open the mail, welcomed with a personal letter from Creative Director Helen. The comforting, softly-lit space featured hand-painted impasto wallpaper, a three-tier chandelier made using deadstock shoelaces and models flicking through artists’ books and watering plants embellished with matching tacticle mini bags and low slip-ons, hand woven from salvaged shoelaces amongst other statement HELEN KIRKUM products. HELEN KIRKUM spent time ensuring every detail of the house felt authentic and encompassed everything the brand stands for, culminating in an uplifting celebration of the beauty and diversity within the sustainable fashion movement. When speaking about the collection, Helen said: “It’s a reflection on our personal relationship with our ever-transforming identities and the fragments that we keep inside. For this collection, we wanted to take a deeper look into our in-house waste streams, and work backwards to create products that have a synergy with the properties of the materials. We’ve woven shoelaces and quilted tongue linings to create new materials that expose the unseen, utilising components we previously couldn’t use in production to expand our product range in an authentic and meaningful way.” The London-based luxury footwear brand has taken a firm step into the world of accessories, launching a new range of bags including tote and tool bags made from their signature ‘Sneaker Collaged Leather’, Handcrafted mini bags made using woven and knotted shoelaces, as well as a crossbody made entirely from salvaged tongue linings. In addition to the return of the Palimpsest Sneaker V2 in the core colours, the brand unveiled a new collaged mesh material way in ‘Bleached Lime’ and ‘Process Blue’ tones, accompanied by a new low slip-on silhouette crafted from their woven shoelace material. This season is also HELEN KIRKUM’s first move into the home accessories space with a collection of plant pots made using the offcuts of their sneaker production.