Articles

The new ready-to-wear collection at Dior was dreamed up by the creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, starting from a reflection on the meaning of the present, in which both past and future must coexist simultaneously. In this collection, as in previous ones, Maria Grazia Chiuri, explores the relationship between femininity and feminism, driven by the conviction that fashion has, more than ever, a responsibility to help women realise their worth and express their differences. She is therefore interested in all the rebels who have asserted their independence in the face of a masculine world and challenged its system. Throughout the show we are presented with references from the early Dior womenswear days, straight back to Christian Dior’s iconic bar jacket from the “New Look”, reinvisioned featuring bold buttons, a slightly oversized look cinched at the waist with a belt, wide shoulders, almost taking inspiration from male military looks to further solidify her idea. Scattered throughout the collection are inspirations from the famous Galliano era at the house, especially recognisable in the off shoulder dresses, some of the jewellery, and even shoes. The colour palette is limited, predominantly featuring colours of ash, chamomile and the colour of what is called love potions in the show notes.The Mille-fleurs, emblematic of Dior, is transformed into a dark motif, a contrasting floral X-ray. Phases of the moon, suns announcing the seasons, medicinal herbs and fantastical animals are all part of this iconic design, and of the embroidery also at times. The monumental, immersive NOT HER art piece, by Elena Bellantoni, perpetuates this refusal of all the clichés that confine women to predefined categories. The video installation, occupying all the walls of the show’s scenography, uses the analog split-flap device: we see a succession of female figures (including the artist herself) reworked by Elena Bellantoni, in a pop spirit, using imagery from sexist adverts and counterpoint phrases to respond to the dominant stereotype: "it’s not her, she’s no longer all that” . This new collection thus restores the idea that the body/clothing relationship is set in the context of the times and not in the time of one day or nostalgia.

The Algorithmic Modular System (1) is comprised of base layers (10), components (100) and extra components (1000). These numeric values draw inspiration from Tao Te Ching, written by Laozi, the founder of Taoism. In the 42nd chapter it says "Tao breeds one, one breeds two, two breeds three, and three breeds everything". In this ancient philosophy, Taozi explains how everything in the world is formed, from nothing to one, from one to many. The Algorithmic Modular System [AMS], created by JE Cai, follows the same ideology. From one system it breeds infinite possibilities. To assemble your products, attach and detach Basics (10), Components (100) or Extra Components (1000) by using the fastening mechanisms located on the connecting points. From zippers to buttons, these fastening mechanisms are elegant in design and allow you to personalise your own uniform. After introducing the foundation structure of the brand’s Algorithmic Modular System (AMS), This season's developments further explore the possibilities of various component parts, introducing new detachable functions. The addition of a lighter colour palette and softer, more casual shapes and draping, is a notable movement, effecting a sense of balance in the collection as a whole, while maintaining the brand’s signature uniformity and playing with existing contradictions in the system. This collection is about collating and developing signature components as focal points. Experimental and rebellious in its nature, JE Cai is tailored for the modern intellectual. Jiean worked on this collection with a clear vision of the JE Cai woman and the different stages of her day in mind. Producing interchangeable uniform components that comprise of buildable look, the brand’s intention is to take the wearer from day into night.

APUJAN is a London-based womenswear label founded by the designer Apu Jan, which officially debuted in AW13 during London Fashion Week. The designs are renowned for integrating patterns and knitwear techniques to illustrate themes inspired by fantasy and literature. This season, the designer is returning to LFW with a physical runway show after a three-year hiatus, presenting their latest SS24 collection titled ‘The Casebook of Kaiju’ APUJAN successively released six fashion show videos and collaborated with numerous Asian actors and celebrities for special performances. This year, APUJAN returns to London, partnering with an international fashion team to present the collection in a physical catwalk once again. The show is titled “The Casebook of Kaiju”, and set for the show was the historical Somerset House. A variety of fine-knit garments, evening gowns, sports and leisurewear, printed dresses, shirts and even menswear looks were presented. Some of the more prominent pieces were: The opening look which featured a relaxed pink long coat, with hot pink pockets, worn with white trainers, with the face of the model hidden under a mask of flowers. Look 5 which consisted of a two-piece light blue outfit with skeleton arm prints all over. The vest is cut into multiple panels which are then connected together with thick fabric almost like a shoelace to create this body complimenting cinched silhouette. “The Casebook of Kaiju” is a collection inspired by the evening of a monster’s arrival, the anticipation of the people who are about to witness it, and is a reference to a new modern and different era. Those references can be seen throughout the show, with symbolic elements such as barriers, ships and the ocean, forests, tanks, news reports and many others.

On a rainy day during London Fashion Week, we are welcomed on the top floor of a lovely space at Bond Street, where Abigail Ajobi presents her SS24 collection. There are drinks, multiple Instagrammable spots and plenty of seating areas around inviting us to relax and really spend the time allowing the garments to settle in and ultimately become one of our favourite shows of the season. This is the 5th collection of Abigail Ajobi and it merges Nollywood Nostalgia and Nigerian Youth Culture, titled “Anti-Muse” it incorporates contemporary Adire prints to create a powerful narrative of cultural fusion and expression. Fusing the vibrant charm of Lagos and storytelling through London’s fashion scene, it focuses on reinventing traditions. Collection Highlights: • 'Anti-Muse': Abigail Ajobi's 5th collection, aptly named 'Anti-Muse', defies conventional fashion norms. It embodies the defiance and individualism of the Alté: Nigerian subculture, with the captivating essence of early 2000’s Nollywood film. • Adire Renaissance: Adire prints, a timeless Nigerian textile tradition, find new life within the 'Anti-Muse' collection. These prints are expertly integrated into the fabric of the collection, transforming tradition into modernity and embracing the harmony of cultural heritage. • London Heritage: A London native, Abigail Ajobi masterfully weaves her dual identity into the collection, merging her Nigerian roots with her British upbringing. 'Anti-Muse' represents the multicultural pulse of London, where diverse influences converge in a harmonious fashion narrative. Designer's Vision: "'Anti-Muse' is a celebration of the unconventional, the unapologetic, and the beautifully contradictory. It's an exploration of how early 2000's Nollywood film and Nigerian youth culture intertwine to shape unique identities. Adire prints ground the collection in tradition while it propels into modernity," says Abigail Ajobi, the visionary designer.

Albarella returns with his signature critique of masculinity’s norms by orbiting the concept of Alien Nation. In response to far-right Italian Prime Minister’s recent dress-code restrictions for parliamentarians, the SS24 collections observes masculine attires as they oscillate between the 9 ‘til 5 worlds of ‘Gang Banking’ and the lunar constellations of a nightly after-work-life. Silk velvet worked in bias mocks political dualities which distract us away from the flamboyant possibilities of elegant attires serving both night and day aesthetics. Feel yourself free to leave the WFH office in your boxers to dive into the silvery glitter transparencies of a wildly queer night out. Monochrome on monochrome is just an invite to look at the nuances of things, and Albarella’s irony is often found in the detail: a Murrell Knot Tie that bears the iconic buckle elements that bind concepts to an unapologetically dissident style. Always joining and subverting ideas of masculinity, these Alienated conditions of labour and attire remind us of what we carry with us across our daily lives. Bring with you a Garment Bag to change suits at will. Please don’t forget the Cherry Bag either, after all, you gotta make sure to have some balls to make money. The Bulge Bag is revisited too, the polite cut of suit trousers meekly banters the ‘package’ being served here. Things are getting serious in this jokes world of labour. Just enjoy yourself henny.​

Bosideng, the world’s largest down jacket manufacturer, pushed boundaries in weightless down outerwear technology at their runway show during Milan Fashion Week at La Vigna di Leonardo, with appearances by Global Brand Ambassador Eileen Gu, supermodel Coco Rocha, and actress Leighton Meester. Coco Rocha Drawing inspiration from the Italian Renaissance and La Vigna di Leonardo’s architecture, Bosideng’s collection infused elements of Chinese and Italian cultures. The show was set amidst natural pathways and preserved Milanese charm, featuring themes of Leonardo da Vinci's visions. The collection redefined weightless down jackets as "Versatile, Weightless, Warm, Contemporary," breathing possibilities into Chinese and Italian cultures. Eileen Gu , Chinese American Freestyle Skier and Global Brand Ambassador of Bosideng, wears the new jacket, marking her debut on the runway for a Chinese clothing brand: “Bosideng has elevated weightless down jackets to new heights, revealing to me a world of untapped possibilities." Sharing the runway was international supermodel Coco Rocha. Bosideng’s front row featured renowned Chinese actresses Caiyu Yang and Zhuzhu, alongside actress Leighton Meester, known from her iconic presence in the Gossip Girl television series, all bearing witness to creativity and innovation in Chinese fashion. Leighton Meester Technical innovations explore floral interlocking textures adorning pieces with intricate handcrafted techniques, breaking away from traditional "rib-like" stitching. Bosideng featured esteemed Italian lace craftsmanship and traditional Su embroidery from China, investing a minimum of 500 hours of craftsmanship in each piece. Bosideng features internationally certified goose down with 700+ fill, creating outerwear both lighter and warmer than traditional down apparel. Simultaneously, three key lightweight warmth technologies were upgraded, integrating proprietary heat and moisture balance patent systems, the introduction of exclusive high-stretch fabrics, and heat feedback technologies. These achievements signify breakthroughs in crafting versatile attire suitable for all seasons across various scenarios and lifestyles. Since 1976, Bosideng has dedicated themselves to down outerwear; this relentless commitment has earned them global recognition, certified by Euromonitor International as the world's largest down jacket manufacturer.

Noki returns to London Fashion Week for SS24 featuring the Tin Can Custom Crew & the Super Scratch Sunday's, a fully working art installation investigating what is NESTT. This is a sustained work in progress process between stylist Kim Howells, hairdresser Nick Irwin and the textile collage artist Noki Custom NHSt. Each element brings forth their own unique creative process to produce a show that the Noki NESTT student will academically adopt by blueprint custom replication to better forward these sustainable processes to push the evolution of the sustainable expression for the future of this 21st Century style. In this NESTT Mash Up mix, Nick Irwin brings his many years of international Schwarzkopf hair excellence with his own unique teaching process, exposing on the runway for the first time the foundations of how to build a hair colour and cut for deep follicle NESTT experimentation. The rave waits for absolutely nobody as dominated by the JBL handheld freedom speakers by the Tin Can Crew, interacting with the static Super Scratch Sunday's scratchers creating a unique audience audio experience, sourcing for that sweet spot mash up /sound clash. International stylist, creative director Kim Howells brings her cherry on top PROCESS, coordinating these raw Noki NESTT manifestations on a cast of community street muses for her NESTT catwalk 2024 runway show. Not until you own your own unique PROCESS can you proceed with originality and authenticity.

This season, JU-NNA draws inspiration from water and the mesmerizing waves created in water on rivers, seas and lakes. The concept intertwines the artistic essence of London’s fashion scene with the elegance and tranquility of Japanese design, resulting in a unique fusion of cultural influences. Viewers are invited to explore a world where traditional Japanese Shibori craftsmanship meets cutting-edge design, offering a unique and captivating experience. In this JU-NNA collection, the exploration of water's playful essence, the rhythmic dance of sea waves, and the intricate fusion of delicate fabrics with expert craftsmanship takes center stage. The opening look is a delicate bright jumpsuit relaxed worn atop of a body-fitted mesh long-sleeve top, which creates an interesting silhouette built on contrast. As the collection progresses we see this abundance of textures created from similar fabrics which beautifully morph and reflect the light giving it an easy-going, yet sophisticated feel and look. JU-NNA was founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, an Instituto Marangoni fashion design womenswear graduate. The brand focuses on fusing conventional Japanese techniques with contemporary and modern design, drawing inspiration from the designer's prior work in the Japanese kimono industry and Tokyo Fashion. Through collaboration with Asianartisans, Jun incorporates traditional Japanese Shibori into his collections, giving a time-honored tradition a fresh and unique look.

Photography by Sebastian Davies

For their AW23 collection, JAAF used 70s soundtracks as inspiration, it is the tribute to this dynamic era fueled by female music icons such as Diana Ross, Barba Stresand and Stevie Nicks that the collection is dedicated to. Artists who undoubtedly left their mark on musical history through their uninhibited beauty and allure. JAAF wanted to capture their spirit using eclectic pairings, funky prints and bright colours but with a modern twist. "Our love for colour and print will never change, and the 70s gave us an incredible number of vibrant inspirations", explains Aleksandra, founder of the brand. The collection consists of 15 vivid garments, including a pussy-bow dress, a masculine suit, a lace-trimmed slip dress, and flared pants paired with a matching top. JAAF lookbook also includes a range of fun and playful day-to-night dresses. The hero of the collection is an oversized coat in a bold wavy pattern. The campaign was shot by Jack Grange on a perfect backdrop - a modernist house from 1969. The brand continues to combine style with environmental awareness, paying attention to every detail. For example, in the AW23 collection, JAAF uses only the sustainable Corozo buttons. All JAAF pieces are produced with longevity in mind, using solely natural and plant-based fabrics, such as silk and viscose. The majority of materials used in its collections are organic, certified, or low-impact. Every single piece is made in Poland, which allows the label to control the quality of its garments and ensure fair wages for the people who create them. In their transparency efforts, JAAF has partnered with Green Story, a platform that enables them to measure and offset their carbon footprint. Furthermore, JAAF donates 1% of their revenue to three carefully chosen NGOs.