GenZ

Helen Anthony AW 2024 - London Fashion Week

As regular fashion week attendees, we are no strangers to show delays and long queues packed with influencers trying to walk into the next show. This season, the award goes to Helen Anthony - an absolutely fantastic show with the only down side being the hour long queue and just shy of 100 looks in the collection. The runway show took place at the iconic Kimpton Fitzroy under vintage stunning chandeliers in a hall packed with hundreds of press and photographers. The lights went dim and the room quieted, moments later the first model walked out on the runway show which turned out to be almost double the size of what I expected it to be as it covered areas around the bar and their lounge area. From the first few looks, this show was a fresh reminder that at the heart of fashion still lays sartorial craftsmanship and elevated materials, which was masterfully presented by the timeless and meticulous tailoring techniques that Anthony has become so renowned for. The daring cuts on the dresses and choice of materials are a careful expression of boundary breaking, freedom and gender diversity. It is the intersection of heritage, modernity, and undimmed individuality. Photography by Darren Brade Bold feminine silhouettes referenced traditional tailoring but with a modern twist reimagined through rich and vibrant colour palettes, colour blocking and long asymmetric cuts often found in men's suit tailoring. Helen Anthony is known for proudly designing their own luxury fabrics and yarns in the UK, and the wide selection of colours in the collection reference Naeem Anthony's diverse cultural influences. Luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, wool, satin, and mesh have been beautifully rendered into strong tailored silhouettes, from voluminous long coats to short cropped styles via flared trousers and oversized bags. With hand-knitted multi-coloured crochet details from the brand’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxtons Yarn, the collection at once champions the heritage of fine tailoring while also pushing its envelope.

Moschino AW24 is a trainwreck, so here are out favourite moments from the Jeremy Scott era

With the new runway show at Moschino, we just had the displeasure of witnessing, comes the nostalgia of the iconic collections that the previous creative director Jeremy Scott brought to life. For those of you who have not been keeping up with the news from the fashion house, please find the three images below for proof of the statement above. While it isn't fair to judge a new creative director by their first collection at a fashion house, this one just felt extremely lost with a lack of narrative or creativity, and is a reminder of the creative genius of Jeremy Scott.

Bevza AW24 At New York Fashion Week

Bevza unveiled their Autumn/Winter 2024 collection during New York Fashion Week. To read our SS24 coverage, click here . Continuing the Ukrainian heritage exploration, Bevza delves deeper into Ukrainian roots using grain as representation of culture and resilience. The collection pays homage to Ukraine's significance as one of the world's largest grain producing countries. Elegance is at the heart of the brand's ethos which each season brings out timeless pieces that surpass the mere trends we so often see on the runway. The aesthetic of the collection is rooted in the stability and clarity of the square shape - an architectural form prominently featured across all Bevza collections. The coats feature an A-shape cut, drawing inspiration from the traditional 19th-century Ukrainian coat known as the 'Kozukh.' In a commitment to supporting Ukrainian artisans, the 'Kozukh' coat is meticulously crafted from sheepskin, while the 'Tisto' vest (Ukrainian for dough) is hand-knitted to highlight the raw bread texture, incorporating the 'Kosa' bread pattern (Ukrainian for braid). Bevza's signature grain motif, previously seen in spikelet jewelry and bag hardware, now plays a dual role as both a clothing clasp holder and a highlight in their latest jewelry collection. This fresh take on the grain theme adds a refined and cohesive touch to Bevza's designs, creating a stylish narrative that effortlessly bridges fashion and nature. Team: Producer - MAKSYM NEKRASOV Style - SVITLANA BEVZA Line up stylist - ALINA KOTSIUBA Casting - BARBARA PFISTER Soundtrack - NASTIA VOGAN Photography - MARIE NICOLE AND FRANK WITHERS

Marques 'Almeida Autumn/Winter 2024 - London Fashion Week

Marques Almeida returned to London Fashion Week and presented their newest collection based around the idea of discovery and exploration. The brand has tirelessly tried to keep reinventing itself as the fashion world has adapted to moving faster than ever before and has recently launched REM'ADE out of surplus materials - a social responsibility and environmental manifesto earned from artisans through M’AKERS, had models walk through suspended bridges over the mountains and over the ocean, published See-Through to enhance community and radical empathy, united the Porto young creative community and welcomed M’A Kids into their diverse family of people. The collection reflects new explorations of volume in heavy satin, structured shapes in outerwear, extreme, sometimes couture like, developments with frills and organza and classic M’A shapes in newer lustrous brocades.

The Coats Of Men's Paris Fashion Week Autumn - Winter 2024

Step into the vibrant realm of Paris Fashion Week, where the fashion landscape undergoes a radical evolution. This season, a seismic shift is palpable, steering away from the transience of trends and steering toward a renewed emphasis on luxury, quality, and timeless allure. We've handpicked the coolest coats to add to your wardrobe today, from the runways of favourites like Louis Vuitton, Amiri, Dior, Valentino, and other global trendsetters. At the Dior menswear show we find two interesting coats - one is a more utilitarian but with extended sleeves, the second has an embellishment across the waist which is a new take on menswear bringing it into a more genderless space. The two coats below from the Givenchy show are equally beautiful and unique in their own rights - one has an amazing texture with the lace reproduced using a wool type of outerwear material; and the second has an incredible cut bringing in a powerful silhouette. Martine Rose Hermes Loewe It clearly never rains or snow at the Loewe runway shows as most models had forgotten to wear a shirt under their Winter coats. This however, doesn't stop the individual pieces from looking incredible - one of them is a more daring response with a crochet floor length jacket, and the other being a more subtle oversized at the shoulders black coat. Dries Van Noten Paul Smith

KGL - ARC ECHO–AW 2024 - London Fashion Week

On the opening night of London Fashion Week, the designer Kanika Goyal presented his new collection for KGL titled “Arc Echo”. It explores fragmented memories and identity, through interweaving past and future experiences, while playing with the principle of paradox. Arc Echo is brought to life through a visual London Fashion Week presentation. Perspex, mesh and vinyl immortalise the passage of time; showcasing the disparity between our past and future selves. Channeling perceptions within the dream realm, obscured acrylic screens fuse identities through a lineup of 16 key looks. Tasked with exploring what it means to look at multiple versions of oneself, the collection is inspired by the transformative qualities of dreams, evoking a familiar sense of déjà vu’. Garments fuse bold design and primary colours, interweaving different facets of one’s personality to create a whole piece. Mosaic knits illustrate the complexity within our memories, bold, bright and pop-art in nature. A juxtaposition of harmony and chaos, rich inner worlds are reflected through hybrid blazers, jacquard knits and weaved denim. An ode to the designers fascination with human psychology, Arc Echo connects a disarray of thoughts and experiences through beautiful design, artistry and colour. Innovation and collaboration is key, questioning the rigid notions of tailoring with a considered approach to materials. Fabrics honour Indian craftsmanship, uplifting local artisans in New Delhi for embroidery excellence. Surplus fabrics from mills are repurposed, uniting the old and new in a nod to Kanika’s heritage and upbringing. Jackets and trousers are weaved from thin strips of deadstock denim, dresses are patched from unused pieces. Materials honour past collections, sharing resources to reduce environmental footprint. A hero, upcycled, denim two-piece is personified by its stand-out mosaic nature. Quality belts, bags, accessories and trims are crafted in surplus leather offcuts, procured from remaining factory stock. Kanika provocatively infuses deep values of circularity, repurposing and social uplift into the creative process. Stereotypes and perception are deconstructed with a free-spirited attitude to fit and design. Experimenting with laminated crushed leather, cracked-bonded and creased taffetas see’s a fresh take on traditional shirting. The jewel in the collection is the ‘Gurmukhi’ dress; an intricate, fully embellished, shattered design with the brand monogram presented through the sacred Gurmukhi alphabet.