BUERLANGMA’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Capsule 5, made a bold statement at London Fashion Week, weaving together elements of cultural heritage, history, and cutting-edge design. The Beijing-based fashion house, led by visionary designers Qiqi Yuan and Crystal Wang, has rapidly risen to prominence since its founding in 2020, and this season’s collection showcased their signature fusion of Eastern tradition and modern fashion innovation. The collection, split into five sub-themes—Desire, Power, Degenerate Peace, and Vold—explored themes like the historical intersection of power and fashion, notably through Rococo-inspired pieces that critiqued the influence of nobility on European style. The masks, inspired by traditional Manchu ethnic clothing, added depth to the collection, symbolizing BUERLANGMA’s commitment to honoring cultural legacies while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. BUERLANGMA’s Capsule 5 was a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. The collection was built on intricate techniques, such as Chinese origami-inspired folds, that harkened back to festival traditions. Yet it also embraced modernity with avant-garde elements that juxtaposed historical influences. The highlight of the runway came when models in oversized black coats revealed intricately designed dresses underneath, symbolizing the evolution of fashion over time. This dramatic transformation celebrated the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week while showcasing BUERLANGMA’s forward-thinking approach and ability to connect past and future through design. Collaboration was key to the success of BUERLANGMA’s SS25 collection. With contributions from artists and designers across various fields, the brand embraced a diverse range of perspectives that enriched the collection’s depth. Through these bold and multifaceted creations, BUERLANGMA reaffirmed its place as a leader in the fashion world, merging Eastern and Western influences and redefining the peaks of creativity and ambition on a global stage.

Jayne Pierson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "Annwn," made waves at London Fashion Week, and it’s no wonder. Pierson brought her signature mix of Celtic mythology and high fashion to the runway, with a collection rooted in the mystical Welsh Otherworld. The show wasn’t just about clothes—it was an immersive experience. Models walked through a set that looked straight out of a fantasy novel, complete with twisted willows, dried flowers, and a soft haze of candlelight. The clothing? A dreamy mix of gold technical chiffons, black taffetas, and leather, all of it made sustainably, of course. Pierson has always known how to work that balance between historical reference and modern fashion, and this collection was no exception. What set Pierson apart this season was her ground-breaking use of tech. She partnered with Arius Technology to do something that’s never been done before—print a Wassily Kandinsky painting onto leather. Yes, actual art on leather. It’s wearable art in the most literal sense, and the result was nothing short of breath-taking. And let’s not forget Rachel Goswell, the lead singer of Slowdive, who took to the runway in a structured cape made entirely from ocean plastic waste. With these collaborations, Pierson is proving she’s not just a designer, she’s a visionary who knows how to blend the past and the future, mythology and technology, all while keeping sustainability front and centre. But Pierson didn’t stop there. She also launched a jewellery collection, the Gwenllian line, in partnership with Devji Aurum. The pieces—crafted in 24-carat Welsh gold and adorned with diamonds and precious stones—felt like they belonged in a museum. Each item was created to be worn as an amulet, offering protection to the wearer, tying in perfectly with the magical, otherworldly theme of the show. Pierson’s SS25 collection felt less like a typical fashion presentation and more like a fully realized piece of performance art. It’s clear that Pierson is a designer who not only has something to say, but she’s also finding incredibly innovative ways to say it.

Mithridate's Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a deeply personal and visually stunning celebration of the Creative Director's hometown of Yunnan, China. Among a star-studded front row—including Tamsin Greig, Tigerlily Taylor, Jameela Jamil with James Blake, and actors Charlie Rowe, Hannah Dodd, and Therica Wilson-Read—the collection served as a tribute to Yunnan’s rich cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant ethnic diversity. This was no ordinary runway show—it was an immersive experience where local traditions met modern aesthetics in a seamless blend of art and fashion. (L) James Blake and Jameela Jamil; (M) Tamsin Greig; (R) Tigerlily Taylor (L) Therica Wilson-Read; (M) Charlie Rowe and Hannah Dodd; (R) Mecia Simpson Photo credit: Jason Lloyd Evans The collection itself was a vivid reflection of Yunnan’s community and natural beauty, with traditional techniques like the region's iconic tie-dye method reinvented with contemporary fabrics and sleek, tailored silhouettes. Ice-dyeing, symbolizing the seasonal transition from winter to spring, added depth and a connection to the natural cycles of the Yunnan landscape. The show's opening set the tone with zen-inspired music, complete with flutes and drums, as the first look—a white boxy pearl-embellished dress—floated down the runway. Sound played an unexpected and captivating role in the presentation. A pleated white floor-length dress adorned with silver bells introduced a new sensory element, as each model’s movement filled the space with the soft, melodic jingling of bells sewn into the fabric. The emotional resonance of these sounds created an atmospheric layer that heightened the collection’s tactile and visual impact. Standout pieces included floor-length designs that felt like a fusion of the past and present: a woven jacket with a long tapestry train blending modernity with tradition, a sheer gown embellished with sparkling stars, and a lacy white dress paired with a cape in matching motifs. Mithridate’s Spring 2025 collection wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a celebration of heritage, nature, and the emotional power of design.

Ancuța Sarca’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at London Fashion Week, plunged attendees into a world where the mundane corporate grind collides with the rebellious spirit of 1960s counterculture. With the soft hum of keyboard clicks and fluorescent lights setting the tone, Sarca drew inspiration from the everyday uniform of modern city life—dark suits, monochrome tracksuits, and comfortable shoes like Crocs and Clarks Wallabees. But true to form, Sarca injected her signature juxtaposition into the collection, fusing corporate minimalism with the wild energy of animal prints and bold textures. Photography by Francesco Zinno Her designs are an imaginative blend of high-concept and wearable, with sportswear silhouettes transformed by upcycled materials like snakeskin high-heeled pumps and oversized leopard print boots—both anchored in masculine shirt collars and sportswear stripes. Sarca’s exploration of gender roles continues with menswear, featuring reworked loafers with velcro fastenings and sleek faux snakeskin detailing. The collection’s highlight was Sarca's partnerships with iconic footwear brands Crocs and Clarks. The collaboration with Clarks reimagined the classic Wallabees using deadstock shoes, marrying heritage style with sustainability in a bold new vision. Crocs, known for their quirky comfort, were deconstructed and transformed using experimental electrostatic flocking techniques, creating hybrid designs that merge practicality with avant-garde aesthetics. Ancuța Sarca’s SS25 collection was an ode to duality—everyday functionality clashed with creative rebellion, a fusion of eras that questioned and celebrated the roles we embody in modern life. Through her reimagined footwear and bold designs, Sarca once again proved her mastery at turning the expected into something thrillingly unexpected.

The runway was awash with delicate pastels—rose pinks, mint greens, and soft yellows—that evoked the blossoming of daffodils and spring’s gentle arrival. The floral jacquards, Irish linens, and silk tweeds spoke of a refined femininity, and the smocking details and ruffles added a whimsical touch to otherwise tailored silhouettes. A standout piece, a pleated silk jacquard skirt paired with a structured linen blazer, harkened back to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless 1960s style, effortlessly blending sophistication with charm. Costelloe’s mastery over these fabrics, often challenging in their own right, underscored his reputation as one of fashion's quiet masters. But it wasn’t just the pastel hues or nostalgic nods that caught the audience’s attention. The collection was steeped in modernity, seen in the inclusion of his first bridal collection—a surprising yet fitting debut for the designer who has spent over 40 years dressing some of the world's most elegant women. These wedding gowns, with their clean lines and minimalist elegance, stood out against the romantic backdrop of the rest of the collection, providing a striking contrast between tradition and the new. Costelloe also introduced a range of accessories, with Paul Costelloe Bags in soft watercolor shades adding a delicate touch to the already dreamy palette. His collaboration with architect Angela Brady brought iridescent jewelry to the runway, elevating the collection’s ethereal quality. For all its soft nostalgia, the collection also spoke to contemporary sensibilities. Striped socks paired with stilettos gave a quirky twist, hinting at Costelloe’s playful side. His debut hosiery collection, a nod to the current trend for elevated workwear, proved that even after decades in the industry, Costelloe is still in tune with the zeitgeist. His Le Ciel est Bleu collection effortlessly straddled past and present, Parisian chic and modern playfulness, making it one of the most enchanting highlights of London Fashion Week.

Image by Marie Pichonnaz Harri's Spring/Summer 2025 show at London Fashion Week was an unapologetically bold display of his signature experimental style. Known for pushing boundaries, the Indian-born designer took latex to new heights, blending inflated, balloon-like shapes with sleek, body-hugging silhouettes. The collection felt futuristic, with a dystopian twist—think apocalyptic streetwear, but make it fashion. Harri’s iconic inflated trousers returned, but this time, he added pointed shoulders and exaggerated textures, making sure no one could look away. Image by Rosella Damiani The collection’s standout feature was how Harri used latex not just as a material but as a statement. He played with the elasticity of both fabric and identity, crafting pieces that were equal parts sculpture and wearable art. The models moved in slow-motion down the runway, emphasizing the fluidity and drama of each look. There were surreal moments, like models in ballooned jumpsuits and sinister latex suits with horns, giving off a theatrical, almost alien vibe. It was a risky, boundary-pushing collection, but Harri has always thrived in that space. What truly set this collection apart, though, was Harri’s debut in womenswear. He took inspiration from Renaissance art, reimagining powerful, regal silhouettes in latex, of all things. The final looks—a series of sheer, skin-hugging pieces in deep greens and burgundy—were a masterclass in how to make latex look both sophisticated and edgy. It was an evolution for Harri, one that blended the past and future with surprising elegance, solidifying his place as one of fashion’s most fearless innovators. Photography by Alexis White