Helen Anthony AW 2024 - London Fashion Week

As regular fashion week attendees, we are no strangers to show delays and long queues packed with influencers trying to walk into the next show. This season, the award goes to Helen Anthony - an absolutely fantastic show with the only down side being the hour long queue and just shy of 100 looks in the collection. The runway show took place at the iconic Kimpton Fitzroy under vintage stunning chandeliers in a hall packed with hundreds of press and photographers.

The lights went dim and the room quieted, moments later the first model walked out on the runway show which turned out to be almost double the size of what I expected it to be as it covered areas around the bar and their lounge area. From the first few looks, this show was a fresh reminder that at the heart of fashion still lays sartorial craftsmanship and elevated materials, which was masterfully presented by the timeless and meticulous tailoring techniques that Anthony has become so renowned for. The daring cuts on the dresses and choice of materials are a careful expression of boundary breaking, freedom and gender diversity. It is the intersection of heritage, modernity, and undimmed individuality.

Photography by Darren Brade

Bold feminine silhouettes referenced traditional tailoring but with a modern twist reimagined through rich and vibrant colour palettes, colour blocking and long asymmetric cuts often found in men's suit tailoring. Helen Anthony is known for proudly designing their own luxury fabrics and yarns in the UK, and the wide selection of colours in the collection reference Naeem Anthony's diverse cultural influences.

Luxurious fabrics such as cashmere, wool, satin, and mesh have been beautifully rendered into strong tailored silhouettes, from voluminous long coats to short cropped styles via flared trousers and oversized bags. With hand-knitted multi-coloured crochet details from the brand’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxtons Yarn, the collection at once champions the heritage of fine tailoring while also pushing its envelope.