Articles

Mr Controversial has been mentioned as the " one to watch " when it comes to emerging artistic talent in the UK. His recent track record includes multiple sell-out exhibitions and collections, attracting a dedicated collector base that includes both established collectors and a few well-known celebrities. Early in his artistic journey, he made waves by combining vintage pulp imagery with humorous and relatable captions. Most recently, the artist has been focusing on creating new bold and witty typographical oil paintings, infused with universal truths that resonate with a wide audience.Thanks to the shareable nature of his work, it often goes viral, and his aim is to hit the sweet spot between social media viral content and contemporary art. His new collection promises oil paintings characterized by rich textures, vibrant colors, and satirical messages, which the artist will be releasing through a handful of entrusted galleries globally. Drawing from his professional experience in the advertising industry working on campaigns for a variety of brands, his creative work stems from a passion for crafting captivating visuals, communication through design, behavioural science and marketing psychology. He humorously tackles the challenges arising from the digital age and the personal frustrations associated with our social media-centric world. When describing his work Mr Controversial says: Each piece should be instantly relatable to the viewer, as if you have stumbled upon something that hits the nail on the head of your own everyday life, making the ordinary extraordinary & hilariously absurd. I want to create art that speaks to people on a personal level (the inner you) as if I know something about them that nobody else does. Behind the beautiful imagery is a dark story about yourself, just waiting to be discovered. When asked about his artistic process: When I’m not creating in my London studio, I spend many hours in my favourite coffee shops sketching out ideas and wrestling with concepts that have been rattling around in my head. Many people come in and out throughout the day and I like to earwig in on conversations, deconstruct them, and almost psychoanalyse them. I then put them back together with a funny twist and use that as a basis for a piece of art, I then set about creating the imagery around the caption. A lot of my work is based on conversations I’ve personally listened in on or things I’ve seen on social media posts or comments. I always try to find a funny angle, especially with stuff that’s often quite dark. I have a fearless approach to my work, whether that’s taking the piss out of oat milk drinkers, social media influencers, online dating or our own insecurities that rattle around in our minds fuelled by advertising, consumerism and capitalism.​ In a world where nothing is truly original, I can only create art that is authentic to me. I guess that’s what makes your art truly valuable. My work, my ideas, my worldview, my commentary on the world we live in. I believe great artists are commentators and a voice of the times in which they create, their work serves as a snapshot and a window into that specific time in history for future generations to make sense of when they look back. ... In the year 2123 when someone comes across a piece from my 2023 collection entitled; ‘Oat Milk Drinking Twat’ (in either a museum or a skip depending on how successful my art career was), they’ll hold it up as a turning point in milk consumption, shifting consumer attitudes towards mass industrial farming and realise that this beautifully branded crushed oat juice was the trojan horse in the rise of veganism, putting it in nearly every fridge in the UK... well, hopefully.

Starting on Monday, the 10th of July, the London College of Fashion, part of the University of the Arts London, kicked off five full days of events celebrating their undergraduate class of 2023. Taking place until Saturday at Protein Studios in east London, this event offers visitors an extraordinary opportunity to catch a glimpse into the future of fashion through various engaging activities presented by the LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023. These activities encompass design, film, photography, virtual reality (VR), and more. The comprehensive festival program is available on LCF's website, providing detailed information about all the events. Importantly, all events are free of charge, and individuals are welcome to drop in at their convenience. London College of Fashion, UAL, leads the world in fashion business, media and design education. They’ve been nurturing creative talent for over a century, offering courses in all things fashion. With a philosophy of open and inclusive education, they encourage students to examine the past and question the present. To develop inventive, assertive ideas that challenge social and political agendas. And they give them the skills, opportunities – and above all, the freedom – to put those ideas into practice. Photography by Sebastian Davies LCF’s annual undergraduate catwalk show kicked off the festivities with designs from 113 students from the BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear and BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear courses. The collections were presented in front of a packed audience of fashion industry insiders and guests including Dr Brenda Emmanus OBE, Christopher Raeburn, Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion and Luxury at Evening Standard, Harold Tillman CBE, Enterprise Business Advisor to LCF, Liam Osbourne, Managing Director of Dazed Studio and Arooj Aftab, Presenter and Inclusion Consultant. Andrew Teverson, Pro Vice-Chancellor and Head of London College of Fashion, UAL said: “We are delighted to present LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023; a physical celebration of how London College of Fashion, UAL students are changing the world through design, ideas and products that push the boundaries of fashion. The exhibition and associated programme of events bring together work from across all three of LCF’s schools to showcase the very best of our world leading business, communication and design courses. At LCF we believe fashion shapes lives, and key themes throughout this year’s show include sustainability and inclusivity, which demonstrates an unstoppable drive for the future of our industry to diversify and adapt to a rapidly changing world, which reflects our philosophy and dedication to an open, accessible and diverse education. I'd like to thank the entire LCF staff community who work tirelessly to teach, encourage and inspire our students across all of our courses. It is their dedication that brings to life our core philosophy of an open, accessible and diverse education. As we look ahead to our move to East Bank, a new powerhouse for innovation, creativity and learning in east London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park this September 2023, we are excited to realise the opportunities to showcase the work of our students all year round on a new global stage.”

Pharrell Williams' inaugural show at Louis Vuitton left us mesmerized by the presence of renowned celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé, and Rihanna. It was a testament to the continued legacy established by Virgil Abloh, evident in the film-style show openings that he introduced over two years ago. The inclusion of live music performances further enhanced the immersive experience. However, it must be acknowledged that the collection falls short of perfection. Numerous looks prominently showcase camouflage foliage, a pattern more commonly associated with hunting and fishing shops rather than the refined aesthetic of a high fashion brand. Additionally, a significant portion of the collection appears monotonous and repetitive, with the checker pattern covering the models from head to toe. This pattern, which has been considered out of fashion for quite some time, dominated the collection in a way that may have missed the mark in terms of trends, and falls quite tacky.

Gone Rogue, founded by Kim Shaylor in 2018, is an international art curation and consultancy collective that supports emerging and established artists. Their mission is to champion artists, encourage growth and experimentation, and promote diversity in the art world. With over 50 artists and a track record of successful exhibitions and projects worldwide, Gone Rogue has established itself as a respected art partner, collaborating with renowned brands like McLaren, Sushi Samba, and The Prodigy. They provide comprehensive advisory services, from concept development to artwork commissioning and installation. One of the standout artists associated with Gone Rogue is Emma Gibbons, whose exceptional success in 2022 with a sell-out solo show in Piccadilly has led to a larger and brighter exhibition at the Gone Rogue Gallery. Her latest exhibition, titled "Barbiecore," celebrates the extravagant legacy of Barbie, inspired by the iconic doll's hues. The exhibition opens three days before London Pride and coincides with the premiere of the Barbie Movie in London, creating a vibrant celebration of all things pink, sparkly, and delightfully camp. Interestingly, Margot Robbie, the lead actress in the Barbie Movie, is not only a collector but also a fan of Emma Gibbons. Robbie purchased one of Gibbons' earlier Barbie-inspired artworks, which now hangs on the wall of her production company's office. With Robbie's endorsement and Gibbons' iconic art pieces like the Parfum bottles and popsicles on display, the exhibition is highly anticipated. Gibbons' recognizable signature technique involves using hundreds of pill capsules filled with glitter and coloured powder set in resin, arranged into slogans, and poured into perfume bottles. In this exhibition, Gibbons adds dollhouse miniatures and various Barbie doll paraphernalia to the mix. Additionally, limited edition Barbie Parfum artworks, featuring polymer clay hearts and confetti, will be released in May 2023. ME London Hotel, known for its reputation as a hub for both emerging and established artists, has formed an exceptional partnership with Gone Rogue, resulting in a series of remarkable exhibitions that further enhance the hotel's acclaim. Visitors should not miss the opportunity to experience the camp and captivating "Barbiecore" art exhibition at ME London. The hotel offers more than just accommodation; it is an architectural masterpiece bursting with art, music, design, and fine cuisine. Located in the vibrant Covent Garden district, ME London immerses guests in a lively atmosphere with theaters, pubs, boutiques, cafes, restaurants, and live music. It is undoubtedly one of the most energetic and lively places in the world.

AU79 introduces their latest jewellery collection inspired by the enchanting Mediterranean, unveiling it at Paris Fashion Week. This exquisite jewellery brand takes its name from the periodic chemical element of gold in its purest state. Embracing the essence of nature, AU79 presents a captivating aesthetic with designs reminiscent of rocks, organic wooden structures, and the breathtaking allure of the Mediterranean Sea. Breaking away from conventional norms, this gender-neutral brand draws inspiration not only from idyllic islands but also from ancestral tales and traditions. The chosen shade of gold echoes the mesmerizing hues found along the Mediterranean coastline, evoking the warm tones of sand and rugged rocks. Each piece in our collection carries profound significance, often influenced by the rich history of the Mediterranean region or the cherished narratives passed down within our own families. Credits: www.au79finejewellery.com Photography - Abhishek Bhatt Models - Reyes, Sandra, Adrian & Mike AU79 Jewellery - Stephanie Seychell steph@AU79finejewellery.com Instagram @au79finejewellery

Just a few weeks ago the Kerring Group sent shockwaves across the entire fashion world, announcing the end of the Alessandro Michele era. To take over his position was recently appointed Sabato De Sarno who has worked in some of the biggest names - Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino. Alessandro Michele resurrected Gucci and brought back the iconic house to the front pages of every magazine. Establishing connections with Jared Leto and Harry Styles, he acquired a whole new audience and brought back that bourgeois spirit that Gucci was once known for. Today we are looking at some of his most iconic moments at the helm of this fashion powerhouse. That time he took over Gucci as a creative director and completely redesigned the menswear collection in under a week. You remember those iconic loafers lined with kangaroo fur on the back, worn with a red suit/tracksuit? Yep, those ones were released during that time and it is incredible to think that a designer could come up with such ideas in such a short amount of time. He pushed fashion fluidity further than most if not any brands out there and really brought back the disco aesthetic in a more twisted modern way. The Autumn Winter 2018 collection featuring models on the runway carrying their own replica heads - a metaphor for how people construct their identities with the help of machines and other non-natural additions – “we are the Dr Frankenstein of our own lives”. In 2022 Gucci showed their Gucci Twinsburg Spring Summer 2023 collection featuring identical twins. It is a truly mesmerising spectacle that cannot be described with words and should totally be in your watch later list. The show opens with two runways separated by a curtain, on one side you have a twin walking in an outfit mirrored on the other side by the other twin. At one point the curtain lifts up and this is revealed and it is such an iconic history of fashion moment.

Experience a truly emotional journey at the LV Menswear fashion show, featuring the first collection by another designer since Abloh's passing. Witness the iconic house's tribute and innovation as they invite a guest designer for a single-season collaboration with Virgil's team. Discover the seamless blend of styles and the remarkable creative expression. Join us as we celebrate the spirit of fashion and pay homage to a visionary. Don't miss this extraordinary moment in the world of menswear. The designer chosen for this season was KidSuper’s founder - Colm Dillane, which was not surprising, since he won the LVMH prize in 2021 and his aesthetic and street style come in close contact with Virgil’s which echoed through the stage during this show. With a performance from Rosalia atop a retro car, and a plethora of beats referencing a bridge across cultures, it made for an exciting spectacle, alas the looks some too similar to what we have seen before, but a few main pieces stole the show, while Colm Dillane is not a permanent designer at the house, he surely was an interesting choice. The well-known silhouettes that Virgil introduced to the house, alongside some of his innovation present within this collection however pose the question of whether there is a chance that the house would potentially lag behind competition if it focuses too much on preserving a legacy and refuses to move on from the 2020s aesthetic.

Discover the enchanting world of Korean Hanbok at a prestigious event hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism, in collaboration with the Korea Craft Foundation and the Korean Cultural Centre UK. Hanbok, the traditional style of Korean clothing, takes center stage as Korean fashion rides the wave of global K-pop domination. Witness the rise of Korean designers at London Fashion Week, where their innovative approaches, meticulous craftsmanship, and attention to detail have captivated fashion enthusiasts worldwide, making them the talk of the town and social media. The event, aptly named "Hanbok Wave," pays homage to the Korean style of dressing popularized through games and pop culture. Ten talented designers have been handpicked to showcase their interpretation of this traditional wear, accompanied by visually stunning photo shoots shared with mainstream media. As the year draws to a close, a special Hanbok Wave pictorial video will grace the Broadway billboard in Times Square, New York, capturing the essence and allure of Korean fashion for all to admire. LEE YOUNG-AE HYEON GUIROE C ZANN-E HAPPLY HAEMI BY SAIMDANG GEUMUIJAE MORINORI HEYUM LIV DAMYEON

A few days ago we witnessed the birth of a new very unexpected collaboration - this of Dolce & Gabbana and Kim Kardashian. A collaboration no one in the world ever thought we needed to see or wish existed, yet now it does and I just had to sit down and write about it the moment I was done torturing myself watching the catwalk. I would like to say I was shocked to see Kim work with the designers considering their misogynistic, racist and homophobic patterns (I mean she is a lawyer), but without Kanye to guide her in the right direction when it comes to fashion, I guess this is only the beginning. In today’s article unlike any other before I just quickly wanted to remind everyone of all the times D&G did wrong. Strap yourself in and get ready for this emotional rollercoaster featuring defamation suits, tax evasion, racism, misogyny, internalised homophobia and online bullying. It is insane seeing major fashion outlets minutes after the show titled 'Ciao Kim' publishing articles describing the show as ‘’epic’’, ‘’spectacular’’, ‘’the next level’’ to just quote a few from Elle and Vogue. We are all in when it comes to brands learning and improving but the below will prove quite the opposite for the brand as it completely missed the marks for about 15 hours and cancel culture clearly did not do its job the right way as we are still here talking about it. A brief history It is an Italian luxury fashion brand established in 1985, with a first official runway show titled Real Women - if this is not a sign of a disastrous future that would follow about 25 years later, I don’t know. Although having said that since it happened back in the 80s trans rights weren’t really a thing so most likely this was not a reference to a secret allyship with J. K. Rowling, but simple ignorance. According to Wikipedia, the brand didn’t see much success until the early nineties with their 1940s inspired campaign and later in 1996 winning an award for best men’s fragrance. In the early 2000s the brand had climbed to fame with a turnover of more than 500 million euro, working with celebrities like Madonna, Missy Elliott, Beyoncé, and Mary J. Blige. The brand pretty much shaped the decade and this is the first time we started witnessing some of the red flags. In 2007 they launched a campaign which showed a woman being pinned down by the wrist by a man, Italian unions unionised and called for a boycott, and Amnesty international asked for the campaign to be withdrawn saying it risked “excusing violence against women”. Both Spain and Italy banned the ad before it even aired. In 2010 the D&G were indicted for alleged tax fraud and convicted by two separate Italian courts. And after being sentenced to 20 months in prison, they appealed and as it usually happens with overly rich people - all charges were overturned by the Italian high court. In 2012 they presented their Blackamoor earrings inspired by… colonialism. As the Guardian beautifully put it “There’s nothing cute about two white men selling minstrel earrings to a majority non-black audience. There wasn’t a single black model in Dolce & Gabbana’s show, and it’s hard not to be appalled by the transparent exoticism in sending the only black faces down the runway in the form of earrings.” In 2015 they made comments about gay parenting (“The only family is the traditional one”) and IVF (“children of chemistry”) which received massive backlash fuelled additionally by personalities such as Elton John voicing their opinion on the matter. In 2016 their website revealed an exclusive pair of sandals titled ‘’slave sandals’’, their name was swiftly changed and business continued as usual. In 2017 when Melania became first lady and all American designers refused to dress her, D&G stepped in. When literal protests were being carried out across the US, the designers put the slogan on a t-shirt and sold it mocking free speech. Later called out by a rapper called Raury as he walked their catwalk. He only found out about the entire boycott the night before the show but still managed to come up with his own plan to show support. (Hence why it is important to keep celebrities and media accountable). In 2017 they thought it was cute to promote body dysmorphia by releasing sneakers that read ‘’I’m thin & gorgeous’’. The response the designers gave was less than satisfactory with “Darling you prefer to be fat and full of cholesterol ??? I think u have a problem.” In 2018 they had one of their biggest years to date when they somehow managed to offend an entire nation. Many of you might have come across this one featuring a Chinese model attempting to eat Italian cuisine with chopsticks, while a male narrator asks “is it too huge for you?”. Stefano Gabbana, the blessed outspoken soul he is, allegedly made multiple racist and extremely offensive remarks about Asian people in DM’s that were shared across multiple screenshots on social media and by the popular social media account Diet Prada. Instead of apologising (which would have probably achieved nothing considering the level at which he played it) he just said that someone hacked his account. In 2018 Stefano told Reuters that “I don't want a Japanese designer to design for Dolce & Gabbana" regarding succession plans which promptly raised accusations of alleged racism, very surprising. In 2018 the designer duo felt appropriate to file a defamation suit against Diet Prada seeking approximately $800 million for loss of business which clearly the designers are too blind to see is caused by their own doing or the lack there of. In 2018 he made sure that everyone knew he was not a Selenator by commenting under a Selena Gomez’s photo calling her ‘’ugly’’. The same year he also wrote under a Kate Moss’s photo just to say ‘’No’’ And to end it on a high and make everyone think for a second, they literally called the Kardashians “most cheap people in the world,” to now literally try and cash grab from their millions of fans. With all the above, a few questions come to mind: Why is Kim Kardashian collaborating with them now, or how much is she getting paid to do it? Why are major media outlets not limiting the exposure of this brand to their audiences? And why are consumers still buying into a racist, homophobic, misoginistic brand? From the wall of shame to the wall of forgiveness: It is important to note that after a push from their audience both Antoni Porowski and Tan France dissociated themselves from the brand. So if you were one of those sat at home thinking there was not much you could do, you are wrong, not only does your wallet speak but so does your social media presence. Look out for the celebrities you support, always keep them accountable. Go ask Kim what’s good and let us know what you think below.

RAY CHU is a Disruptive, Sexy, A-gender RTW brand established in 2016. A unique combination of refined quality, innovative craftsmanship and the use of carefully placed cut- outs emboldens the brands core, genderless identity. Chu’s silhouettes and cuts are created to empower confidence. Sustainable by nature, RAY CHU works with dead stock fabric, organic cotton, vegan leather and only produces clothing to order. The Spring Summer 23 Collection sees RAY CHU presenting 25 complete genderless looks with a unique, distinctive and contemporary aesthetic, the KISS ME collection pays homage to sensuality with an experimental implementation. This season features bold silhouettes with a subtle dreamy colour palette, paired alongside intricate additions suchas the lace embroidery and hand sewn details. Turquoise Blue, Bone Ivory and Powder Violet are three key colours of the CHAPTER V KISS ME collection, the vivid colour palette is used as a visual expression of the passionate personal desires that inspire the Spring Summer 23 collection. RAY CHU’s recognisable metallic logo and motifshave also made their way into the collection being applied across simple crop tops to balance the statement sequinpieces and strong tailoring seen throughout Spring Summer 23. Being a positively conscious and sustainable label, CHU collaborated with the Taiwanese LAB 808 to create anew vegan leather using recycled plastics, tea leaves and pineapple fibres to build the key fabrics for this collection. RAY CHU in collaboration with extraordinary Japanese artist, Tomomi Mizukoshi, co-created the “Kiss Me” motiffrom which the collection takes the name - represented with two eggplants French kissing each other. CHU and Mizukoshi also worked together to create RAY CHU’s first featured print that takes inspiration from the romantic Thailand sunset. Tomomi Mizukoshi’s works are inspired by daily life, through her humorous, formal, andconstitutive artistic expression, she redefines the world and creates a crazy and wonderful two-dimensional space. This powerful sense of control over every element provides the viewer with an unusual aesthetic of neatness andorder, making Tomomi Mizukoshi's illustrations surreal and the perfect fit for RAY CHU’s Spring Summer 23collection. In addition to his Spring Summer collection Ray Chu has been working alongside MISS 21 to introduce a brand newcapsule of footwear that will also be launched October of this year. This season’s showcase has a general focus on fluidity and holds an emphasis on the journey to LOVE, whatever form that may take for an individual. The presentation highlights the intimate moments to finding ones inner peace.

Last week Justin Cassin showcased their most recent menswear collection as part of London Fashion Week SS23. Many celebrities and high profile models walked on the runway to add to the excitement of the designer’s first time on the London fashion scene, and we were lucky enough to be given backstage access where we were able to talk with Justin Cassin himself about his inspiration, theme and the future of his brand. We also got to speak with Ishod Wair - an American skateboard superstar who recently launched a collaboration with Nike’s SB to create skateboarding shoes. Everything about this show screamed youthful energy and excitement, from the upbeat music, the sunset making its way through the ceiling windows, to the location itself - Seymour Hal, an art deco grade II listed building from the 1930s. Backstage photos by Puja Bhatia @p.b_photography22 This season it was all about personality at the Justin Cassin show as the clothes complimented the wearer and vice versa. Jonah Marais from Why Don’t We, opened the show wearing an all black outfit - relaxed double breasted blazer, oversized trousers and leather shoes, accessorised with a pendant necklace and a ring. Ishod Wair - the American skateboard star from New Jersey, wore asymmetrical cropped, flowy black trousers matched with a white jumper with a V-neck and a black trim., brown leather sandals and a gold necklace helped finish off the look. Justin Cassin’s designs blur the lines between traditional and contemporary fashion and act as a commentary on the current trends magnified by fast fashion where everyone wears the same and ends up a clone of one another hence losing individuality and personality in the process. His message with this collection is that everyone is welcome to be on his runway, he wants to inspire people to be themselves and to be proud of their individuality. The show also featured Christian Arno and Jonathan Steinig. Christian Arno wore high waisted houndstooth patterned trousers styled with a tucked in hot orange jumper; and Jonathan Steinig wore a silky purple shirt with an oversized pussybow tie paired with wide cropped white trousers. The finale look also worn by Jonah Marais featured an oversized winter coat in white with black splatters of paint worn bare chested matched with flowy black trousers.