Articles

Watching Mithridate’s SS24 show was like a breath of fresh air, almost contradicting the majority of catwalks from the official schedule. This refreshing departure was marked by vibrant colors and a notably cheerful tone. Interestingly, upon reading the show notes, the inspiration behind the collection becomes evident: it draws from Demon Zhang's heritage (the Creative Director of Mithridate) and incorporates elements of traditional Chinese medicinal techniques including the key 24 different healing herbs. The collection is bursting with a spectrum of hues, including radiant yellow, calming cyan, earthy salt pink, and gentle jade. These colors are thoughtfully arranged on organic and remedial fabrics such as silk, cotton, and linen. In line with MITHRIDATE's emblematic moth motif, this season introduces the captivating ghost moth. Not only does this moth is believed to posses healing properties, but it also adorns the collection in patterns, layered accessories, exquisite hand embroidery, and elegantly winged silhouettes. Demon Zhang masterfully blends traditional and modern aesthetics by incorporating oriental cutting designs and the bean dye technique from Southwest China, all while seamlessly integrating laser cutting and hydraulic spray painting. Infused with her signature maximalist style, the collection experiments with flowing textures and plays with the interplay of light and layering to exude a sense of healing energy.

Merve Bayindir just launched an exclusive collection at Bergdorf. Merve Bayindir collection reflects the uniqueness and savoir-faire of the head-piece architect. Collaborating with the giant Bergdorf, the brand presents a one-of-a-kind collection of vibrant headpieces that elevate any occasion, making a sophisticated and memorable statement. Their story is about a strong bond between a mother and a daughter, who have been through some tough times and come out stronger together. For them life is all about family, sharing, love, trust, dreams and happiness, and they manage to find all that in making hats and sharing them with the world. They established the brand in 2013 in Istanbul, their dream grew bigger and with the strength of their bond and belief in one another they packed up everything and moved to London in 2016. They say “We know how lucky we are to have each other and have such an amazing relationship so we try to reflect that to all our projects but especially to our hats”. Merve Bayindir Couture collection is inspired by a strong force, it pushes the standard to a higher level of design and colours. The collection is a mixture of old-school and modern aesthetic to keep a timeless heritage.

Ukrainian based brand, BEVZA, returns to New York Fashion Week this September to present their SS24 collection. Founded by Svitlana Beza, their SS’24 collection will bring back the brand’s ethos to New York. BEVZA's Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a tribute to the enthusiastic and socially aware young generation, who are committed to building a more peaceful future. The collection continues to draw its primary visual inspiration from BEVZA's signature color: white. However, a noteworthy addition to this collection is the prominent use of blooming marigolds as a central design element. Marigolds hold deep cultural significance in Ukraine, having been celebrated in song, literature, and poetry for generations. In Ukrainian, they are referred to as "Chornobryvets" and symbolize optimism and renewal. The idea behind this collection, as explored by Svitlana Bevza, is rooted in the resilience and growth that marigolds represent. Just as where you plant a marigold, it will inevitably flourish, this collection embodies the spirit of hope and regeneration. "Marigolds are my grandfather’s favorite flowers. In honor of his memory, for 20 years on my balcony in Kyiv I used to replant the seeds he gave me. I was forced to leave my home in Kyiv, but I kept his memory with me. I want these flowers to sprout everywhere." In addition to marigolds, the collection also features tulip petals and spikelets. Delicate and tender tulip petals are thoughtfully incorporated into the SS'24 collection, adorning the skirts and hemlines of the dresses. Meanwhile, spikelets are prominently featured on the hardware of the bags and in the jewelry pieces. The inclusion of spikelets serves to symbolize fertility and rebirth, adding further layers of meaning and depth to the collection's thematic exploration of growth, renewal, and the enduring spirit of life. The SS24 collection by BEVZA embodies three central characteristics: youthfulness, sustainability, and dedication to craftsmanship. In a commitment to preserving and revitalizing artisanal techniques, the collection seamlessly weaves traditional Ukrainian jewelry, crafted from beads, into modern handmade dress details. This fusion of old and new pays homage to heritage while celebrating the vitality of youth. Furthermore, BEVZA maintains its commitment to sustainability in the SS'24 collection by employing zero waste fabric technology in the creation of many pieces. This sustainable approach underscores the brand's dedication to environmentally responsible fashion practices, aligning with the contemporary demand for fashion that not only looks good but also contributes positively to our planet. BEVZA continues their efforts to keep and create jobs in Ukraine while representing the nation on an international scale. Their mission continues to focus on the betterment of Ukraine.

With London Fashion Week set to begin in just a matter of days, our focus turns to the talented designers nominated for the prestigious Fashion Awards of 2023 by the British Fashion Council. This year holds particular significance as it marks the 30th anniversary of the BFC NEWGEN, an initiative which supports the best emerging fashion design talent and aims to build global, high-end brands of the future. In honour of the anniversary, this year’s award will recognise a current BFC NEWGEN recipient. There are 5 categories currently announced, with a 6th one - Designer of the year, revealed in November. BRITISH MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR GRACE WALES BONNER FOR WALES BONNER Founded by Grace Wales Bonner after her graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2014, this label draws inspiration from extensive cultural research and welcomes diverse viewpoints. Initially established as a menswear brand, Wales Bonner's heartfelt tailoring quickly evolved to include womenswear as well. KIKO KOSTADINOV FOR KIKO KOSTADINOV Kiko Kostadinov launched his own fashion brand in Spring/Summer 2016, featuring a collection inspired by uniforms and workwear. The Central Saint Martins graduate rapidly gained fame in the fashion world, known for his unique pattern cutting, precise garment making, and elegant designs. KIM JONES FOR DIOR MEN Kim Jones is no stranger in the fashion world, having started his journey back in 2003 with his eponymous label, later closing it down to work for Louis Vuitton, followed by Dior and Fendi as of right now. He has established himself as one of the most successful menswear designers currently. MARTINE ROSE FOR MARTINE ROSE Martine Rose is a label heavily influenced by hip hop, punk, reggae and dance music from the 90s, often showcasing their collections in very non-traditional spaces such as street markets and community gyms to further solidify the people and culture inspiration. STEVEN STOKEY-DALEY FOR S.S.DALEY Flirting with class ideologies, Daley, a working class boy from Liverpool, reinterprets the realm of British elitism via the institution of the British public school. "I think it's interesting, you know.. looking at codes, which historically belong to Harrow School for example, and figuring out their equivalents of the school culture I'm more familiar with." BRITISH WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR ERDEM MORALIOĞLU FOR ERDEM Erdem is a London-based independent fashion house producing womenswear. Established in 2005, the brand has carved out its unique identity embodying poetic and rigorous, timeless and versatile qualities. MAXIMILIAN DAVIS FOR FERRAGAMO Just over a year ago Maximilian Davis took over Ferragamo with the heavy task to resurrect the brand and attract a younger audience. Having worked with celebrities like Rihanna, Beyonce and Kim Kardashian, he had already built an arsenal of loyal customers willing to follow him on the journey of rediscovering the Ferragamo brand. NENSI DOJAKA FOR NENSI DOJAKA Albanian born Nensi Dojaka founded her eponymous brand soon after completing the MA program at Central Saint Martins in 2019. She was fortunate to have SSENSE (one of the biggest fashion retailers) buy her graduate collection, which catapulted her to fame and allowed her to keep producing more work. She's well known for producing contrasting outfits with sheer fabrics against matte black sensually hiding and exposing different parts of the body. ROKSANDA ILINČIĆ FOR ROKSANDA Roksanda is a well-established brand with over 10 years in business designing womenswear which questions traditional femininity and uses contrast with shapes, architectural sleeves, colour blocking and modern daring cuts to shape her ready-to-wear collections. SIMONE ROCHA FOR SIMONE ROCHA Simone Rocha is well known for the romanticism emanating from her work, with her use of pearls, tulle and embroidery. She draws inspiration from her heritage, art, history and literature, and often plays with the themes of identity and subversion, drawing inspiration from the past and twisting it into the modern world. NEW ESTABLISHMENT - MENSWEAR BIANCA SAUNDERS Bianca Saunders addresses the tension between tradition and modernity, as well as between the masculine and the feminine. She takes inspiration from her British and Jamaican background, bringing a multi-disciplinary attitude which cross references cultures into modern evolution of menswear. CORTEIZ Corteiz, also known as CRTZ, is a brand based in West London that has rapidly gained acclaim since its establishment in 2017. Founded by the mysterious Clint, this brand has become renowned for its tight-knit community and unconventional marketing strategies. Corteiz specializes in crafting a variety of clothing items, including hoodies, t-shirts, and track suits, all of which are exclusively available through the brand's password-protected website. LABRUM LONDON Founded in 2014, Labrum London is a modern-day menswear brand telling the untold stories of West Africa to help bridge the gap between western and West African culture. NICHOLAS DALEY Nicholas Daley's work is deeply rooted in community, craftsmanship, and culture. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2013, this London-based designer introduced his eponymous brand in 2015. His creative approach weaves together personal storytelling with broader themes related to the black British and diasporic experience. SAUL NASH Saul Nash is a designer, movement director and choreographer from North East London who over the past three years alone has been named an LVMH Prize semi-finalist, a NEWGEN recipient, a member of Highsnobiety’s THE NEXT 20 list, and most recently Recieved both the International Woolmark Prize 2022 & Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design in the Same Week. NEW ESTABLISHMENT – WOMENSWEAR CHOPOVA LOWENA The Shopova Lowena duo is a ready-to-wear label that blends Bulgarian handcraft aesthetics, vibrant '80s rock climbing gear, and a rebellious punk attitude. Their collection features a fusion of patchwork pleated kilts held up by robust leather belts, embroidered puff-sleeved dresses, and eye-catching kaleidoscopic knits. Chopova Lowena's diverse offerings are daring, energetic, and entirely unique in their style. DILARA FINDIKOĞLU Dilara Findikoglu is a London-based contemporary womenswear designer who showcases her seasonal collections at London Fashion Week. She holds a significant influence by combining subcultural elements and incorporating them with relevant and timely social commentary on feminism, religion, and politics. Her distinct and instantly recognizable perspective on luxury fashion has positioned her as one of today's most discussed creative talents, earning critical acclaim from numerous publications. KNWLS KNWLS is a London-based fashion brand led by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault. Founded in 2017 as Charlotte Knowles and rebranded in 2021, the label champions femininity as a sort of armor, drawing on lingerie and corsetry as the inspiration for its bold, sensual designs. ROBERT WUN The brand debuted their first runway show in Paris, January 2023, with the support of Bruno Pavlovsky at CHANEL. Robert became the first designer from Hong Kong to join the Haute Couture Calendar in its history, as a guest member of The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. The brand debuted their first runway show in Paris, January 2023, with the support of Bruno Pavlovsky at CHANEL. Robert became the first designer from Hong Kong to join the Haute Couture Calendar in its history. SUPRIYA LELE Supriya Lele is the creative force behind her eponymous label based in London. Her design ethos is profoundly influenced by her cross-cultural perspective, exploring her Indian heritage alongside her British cultural identity. Her creative process is distinctly feminine, weaving together a narrative that is nuanced and subtle, telling a captivating story through her work. MODEL OF THE YEAR ALTON MASON ANOK YAI KAI-ISAIAH JAMAL LIU WEN MONA TOUGAARD PALOMA ELSESSER

Mr Controversial has been mentioned as the " one to watch " when it comes to emerging artistic talent in the UK. His recent track record includes multiple sell-out exhibitions and collections, attracting a dedicated collector base that includes both established collectors and a few well-known celebrities. Early in his artistic journey, he made waves by combining vintage pulp imagery with humorous and relatable captions. Most recently, the artist has been focusing on creating new bold and witty typographical oil paintings, infused with universal truths that resonate with a wide audience.Thanks to the shareable nature of his work, it often goes viral, and his aim is to hit the sweet spot between social media viral content and contemporary art. His new collection promises oil paintings characterized by rich textures, vibrant colors, and satirical messages, which the artist will be releasing through a handful of entrusted galleries globally. Drawing from his professional experience in the advertising industry working on campaigns for a variety of brands, his creative work stems from a passion for crafting captivating visuals, communication through design, behavioural science and marketing psychology. He humorously tackles the challenges arising from the digital age and the personal frustrations associated with our social media-centric world. When describing his work Mr Controversial says: Each piece should be instantly relatable to the viewer, as if you have stumbled upon something that hits the nail on the head of your own everyday life, making the ordinary extraordinary & hilariously absurd. I want to create art that speaks to people on a personal level (the inner you) as if I know something about them that nobody else does. Behind the beautiful imagery is a dark story about yourself, just waiting to be discovered. When asked about his artistic process: When I’m not creating in my London studio, I spend many hours in my favourite coffee shops sketching out ideas and wrestling with concepts that have been rattling around in my head. Many people come in and out throughout the day and I like to earwig in on conversations, deconstruct them, and almost psychoanalyse them. I then put them back together with a funny twist and use that as a basis for a piece of art, I then set about creating the imagery around the caption. A lot of my work is based on conversations I’ve personally listened in on or things I’ve seen on social media posts or comments. I always try to find a funny angle, especially with stuff that’s often quite dark. I have a fearless approach to my work, whether that’s taking the piss out of oat milk drinkers, social media influencers, online dating or our own insecurities that rattle around in our minds fuelled by advertising, consumerism and capitalism.​ In a world where nothing is truly original, I can only create art that is authentic to me. I guess that’s what makes your art truly valuable. My work, my ideas, my worldview, my commentary on the world we live in. I believe great artists are commentators and a voice of the times in which they create, their work serves as a snapshot and a window into that specific time in history for future generations to make sense of when they look back. ... In the year 2123 when someone comes across a piece from my 2023 collection entitled; ‘Oat Milk Drinking Twat’ (in either a museum or a skip depending on how successful my art career was), they’ll hold it up as a turning point in milk consumption, shifting consumer attitudes towards mass industrial farming and realise that this beautifully branded crushed oat juice was the trojan horse in the rise of veganism, putting it in nearly every fridge in the UK... well, hopefully.

Starting on Monday, the 10th of July, the London College of Fashion, part of the University of the Arts London, kicked off five full days of events celebrating their undergraduate class of 2023. Taking place until Saturday at Protein Studios in east London, this event offers visitors an extraordinary opportunity to catch a glimpse into the future of fashion through various engaging activities presented by the LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023. These activities encompass design, film, photography, virtual reality (VR), and more. The comprehensive festival program is available on LCF's website, providing detailed information about all the events. Importantly, all events are free of charge, and individuals are welcome to drop in at their convenience. London College of Fashion, UAL, leads the world in fashion business, media and design education. They’ve been nurturing creative talent for over a century, offering courses in all things fashion. With a philosophy of open and inclusive education, they encourage students to examine the past and question the present. To develop inventive, assertive ideas that challenge social and political agendas. And they give them the skills, opportunities – and above all, the freedom – to put those ideas into practice. Photography by Sebastian Davies LCF’s annual undergraduate catwalk show kicked off the festivities with designs from 113 students from the BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear and BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear courses. The collections were presented in front of a packed audience of fashion industry insiders and guests including Dr Brenda Emmanus OBE, Christopher Raeburn, Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion and Luxury at Evening Standard, Harold Tillman CBE, Enterprise Business Advisor to LCF, Liam Osbourne, Managing Director of Dazed Studio and Arooj Aftab, Presenter and Inclusion Consultant. Andrew Teverson, Pro Vice-Chancellor and Head of London College of Fashion, UAL said: “We are delighted to present LCF Undergraduate Class of 2023; a physical celebration of how London College of Fashion, UAL students are changing the world through design, ideas and products that push the boundaries of fashion. The exhibition and associated programme of events bring together work from across all three of LCF’s schools to showcase the very best of our world leading business, communication and design courses. At LCF we believe fashion shapes lives, and key themes throughout this year’s show include sustainability and inclusivity, which demonstrates an unstoppable drive for the future of our industry to diversify and adapt to a rapidly changing world, which reflects our philosophy and dedication to an open, accessible and diverse education. I'd like to thank the entire LCF staff community who work tirelessly to teach, encourage and inspire our students across all of our courses. It is their dedication that brings to life our core philosophy of an open, accessible and diverse education. As we look ahead to our move to East Bank, a new powerhouse for innovation, creativity and learning in east London’s Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park this September 2023, we are excited to realise the opportunities to showcase the work of our students all year round on a new global stage.”

Pharrell Williams' inaugural show at Louis Vuitton left us mesmerized by the presence of renowned celebrities such as Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé, and Rihanna. It was a testament to the continued legacy established by Virgil Abloh, evident in the film-style show openings that he introduced over two years ago. The inclusion of live music performances further enhanced the immersive experience. However, it must be acknowledged that the collection falls short of perfection. Numerous looks prominently showcase camouflage foliage, a pattern more commonly associated with hunting and fishing shops rather than the refined aesthetic of a high fashion brand. Additionally, a significant portion of the collection appears monotonous and repetitive, with the checker pattern covering the models from head to toe. This pattern, which has been considered out of fashion for quite some time, dominated the collection in a way that may have missed the mark in terms of trends, and falls quite tacky.

Gone Rogue, founded by Kim Shaylor in 2018, is an international art curation and consultancy collective that supports emerging and established artists. Their mission is to champion artists, encourage growth and experimentation, and promote diversity in the art world. With over 50 artists and a track record of successful exhibitions and projects worldwide, Gone Rogue has established itself as a respected art partner, collaborating with renowned brands like McLaren, Sushi Samba, and The Prodigy. They provide comprehensive advisory services, from concept development to artwork commissioning and installation. One of the standout artists associated with Gone Rogue is Emma Gibbons, whose exceptional success in 2022 with a sell-out solo show in Piccadilly has led to a larger and brighter exhibition at the Gone Rogue Gallery. Her latest exhibition, titled "Barbiecore," celebrates the extravagant legacy of Barbie, inspired by the iconic doll's hues. The exhibition opens three days before London Pride and coincides with the premiere of the Barbie Movie in London, creating a vibrant celebration of all things pink, sparkly, and delightfully camp. Interestingly, Margot Robbie, the lead actress in the Barbie Movie, is not only a collector but also a fan of Emma Gibbons. Robbie purchased one of Gibbons' earlier Barbie-inspired artworks, which now hangs on the wall of her production company's office. With Robbie's endorsement and Gibbons' iconic art pieces like the Parfum bottles and popsicles on display, the exhibition is highly anticipated. Gibbons' recognizable signature technique involves using hundreds of pill capsules filled with glitter and coloured powder set in resin, arranged into slogans, and poured into perfume bottles. In this exhibition, Gibbons adds dollhouse miniatures and various Barbie doll paraphernalia to the mix. Additionally, limited edition Barbie Parfum artworks, featuring polymer clay hearts and confetti, will be released in May 2023. ME London Hotel, known for its reputation as a hub for both emerging and established artists, has formed an exceptional partnership with Gone Rogue, resulting in a series of remarkable exhibitions that further enhance the hotel's acclaim. Visitors should not miss the opportunity to experience the camp and captivating "Barbiecore" art exhibition at ME London. The hotel offers more than just accommodation; it is an architectural masterpiece bursting with art, music, design, and fine cuisine. Located in the vibrant Covent Garden district, ME London immerses guests in a lively atmosphere with theaters, pubs, boutiques, cafes, restaurants, and live music. It is undoubtedly one of the most energetic and lively places in the world.

AU79 introduces their latest jewellery collection inspired by the enchanting Mediterranean, unveiling it at Paris Fashion Week. This exquisite jewellery brand takes its name from the periodic chemical element of gold in its purest state. Embracing the essence of nature, AU79 presents a captivating aesthetic with designs reminiscent of rocks, organic wooden structures, and the breathtaking allure of the Mediterranean Sea. Breaking away from conventional norms, this gender-neutral brand draws inspiration not only from idyllic islands but also from ancestral tales and traditions. The chosen shade of gold echoes the mesmerizing hues found along the Mediterranean coastline, evoking the warm tones of sand and rugged rocks. Each piece in our collection carries profound significance, often influenced by the rich history of the Mediterranean region or the cherished narratives passed down within our own families. Credits: www.au79finejewellery.com Photography - Abhishek Bhatt Models - Reyes, Sandra, Adrian & Mike AU79 Jewellery - Stephanie Seychell steph@AU79finejewellery.com Instagram @au79finejewellery

Just a few weeks ago the Kerring Group sent shockwaves across the entire fashion world, announcing the end of the Alessandro Michele era. To take over his position was recently appointed Sabato De Sarno who has worked in some of the biggest names - Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino. Alessandro Michele resurrected Gucci and brought back the iconic house to the front pages of every magazine. Establishing connections with Jared Leto and Harry Styles, he acquired a whole new audience and brought back that bourgeois spirit that Gucci was once known for. Today we are looking at some of his most iconic moments at the helm of this fashion powerhouse. That time he took over Gucci as a creative director and completely redesigned the menswear collection in under a week. You remember those iconic loafers lined with kangaroo fur on the back, worn with a red suit/tracksuit? Yep, those ones were released during that time and it is incredible to think that a designer could come up with such ideas in such a short amount of time. He pushed fashion fluidity further than most if not any brands out there and really brought back the disco aesthetic in a more twisted modern way. The Autumn Winter 2018 collection featuring models on the runway carrying their own replica heads - a metaphor for how people construct their identities with the help of machines and other non-natural additions – “we are the Dr Frankenstein of our own lives”. In 2022 Gucci showed their Gucci Twinsburg Spring Summer 2023 collection featuring identical twins. It is a truly mesmerising spectacle that cannot be described with words and should totally be in your watch later list. The show opens with two runways separated by a curtain, on one side you have a twin walking in an outfit mirrored on the other side by the other twin. At one point the curtain lifts up and this is revealed and it is such an iconic history of fashion moment.

Experience a truly emotional journey at the LV Menswear fashion show, featuring the first collection by another designer since Abloh's passing. Witness the iconic house's tribute and innovation as they invite a guest designer for a single-season collaboration with Virgil's team. Discover the seamless blend of styles and the remarkable creative expression. Join us as we celebrate the spirit of fashion and pay homage to a visionary. Don't miss this extraordinary moment in the world of menswear. The designer chosen for this season was KidSuper’s founder - Colm Dillane, which was not surprising, since he won the LVMH prize in 2021 and his aesthetic and street style come in close contact with Virgil’s which echoed through the stage during this show. With a performance from Rosalia atop a retro car, and a plethora of beats referencing a bridge across cultures, it made for an exciting spectacle, alas the looks some too similar to what we have seen before, but a few main pieces stole the show, while Colm Dillane is not a permanent designer at the house, he surely was an interesting choice. The well-known silhouettes that Virgil introduced to the house, alongside some of his innovation present within this collection however pose the question of whether there is a chance that the house would potentially lag behind competition if it focuses too much on preserving a legacy and refuses to move on from the 2020s aesthetic.