Articles

Photographer : Nona Duch

Fashion Scout's SS24 Future Collective Catwalk Show takes centre stage during London Fashion Week's off-schedule events, celebrating and empowering emerging talents in fashion and accessories worldwide. Renowned for its remarkable ability to showcase a diverse and innovative array of designers, this show has garnered significant media acclaim. Join us at London Fashion Week as we present a curated selection of three exceptional emerging designers' SS24 collections, promising an unforgettable experience. Maximilian Raynor is a recent graduate from Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion course. Over thepast two years the Derbyshire-born designer has garnered substantial press, editorial and celebrity interest in their designs, dressing music artists Shy girl, Ellie Goulding and Rita Ora among many others. Raynor’s graduate collection, titled ‘The Ballad of Two Lovers’ premiered with Perfect Magazine, was featured in both British and Italian Vogue and walked the runway in Rwanda for a show hosted by King Charles III. Notable featuresof the collection include ThePirelli Calendar styled by Amanda Harlech and on Stefflon Don for the Platinum Jubilee Concert at Buckingham Palace. Kim Perets , the Tel-Aviv couture maven, seamlessly blends laser-cut technology withhandcrafted ingenuity, crafting innovative garments from unconventional materials. After trainingwith industry luminaries in New York and Amsterdam, she launched her eponymous brand,making waves with her debut collection at Tel Aviv's alternative fashion week.Perets transcendstraditional gender boundaries, envisioning fashion as a means of self-expression, as opposed tomere coverage. Her designs celebrate authenticity and comfort in one's skin, a testament to theartistry of clothing. Gazal Mishra , an engineering graduate who boldly embarked on her fashion journey in 2015,established her eponymous brand as a celebration of the synergy between passion and purpose.Committed to empowering local artisans and craftsmen, her brand evolved into a haven ofcreativity and cultural heritage. With a steadfast dedication to sustainable fashion, Gazal Mishraseamlessly weaves intricate artistry with environmental consciousness, harmonizing elegancewith ethicalvalues and redefining fashion innovation, one organic stitch at a time.

HELEN KIRKUM presents ‘Cobbled Together’, a warm welcome into the eclectic world of HELEN KIRKUM debuting a range of bags, new footwear silhouettes and home accessories. Taking a step back from demonstrating their signature making process, the brand highlighted the eco-system that surrounds their products by showcasing their upcoming sneakers and accessories in an immersive home environment accompanied by statement furniture and apparel made by other change-makers in their community. With looks featuring past season and vintage pieces by friends of the brand, HELEN KIRKUM’s house featured three separate vignettes filled with vibrant textures and tactile products. Photography by Bernhard Deckert “It’s really important for me to show that our products come to life when they’re worn. Footwear and accessories don’t exist in a vacuum, so I wanted to celebrate the incredible community of designers that share our values to create an authentic wardrobe of meaningful pieces that complement the handcrafted and tactile nature of our products.” Guests were encouraged to step inside and open the mail, welcomed with a personal letter from Creative Director Helen. The comforting, softly-lit space featured hand-painted impasto wallpaper, a three-tier chandelier made using deadstock shoelaces and models flicking through artists’ books and watering plants embellished with matching tacticle mini bags and low slip-ons, hand woven from salvaged shoelaces amongst other statement HELEN KIRKUM products. HELEN KIRKUM spent time ensuring every detail of the house felt authentic and encompassed everything the brand stands for, culminating in an uplifting celebration of the beauty and diversity within the sustainable fashion movement. When speaking about the collection, Helen said: “It’s a reflection on our personal relationship with our ever-transforming identities and the fragments that we keep inside. For this collection, we wanted to take a deeper look into our in-house waste streams, and work backwards to create products that have a synergy with the properties of the materials. We’ve woven shoelaces and quilted tongue linings to create new materials that expose the unseen, utilising components we previously couldn’t use in production to expand our product range in an authentic and meaningful way.” The London-based luxury footwear brand has taken a firm step into the world of accessories, launching a new range of bags including tote and tool bags made from their signature ‘Sneaker Collaged Leather’, Handcrafted mini bags made using woven and knotted shoelaces, as well as a crossbody made entirely from salvaged tongue linings. In addition to the return of the Palimpsest Sneaker V2 in the core colours, the brand unveiled a new collaged mesh material way in ‘Bleached Lime’ and ‘Process Blue’ tones, accompanied by a new low slip-on silhouette crafted from their woven shoelace material. This season is also HELEN KIRKUM’s first move into the home accessories space with a collection of plant pots made using the offcuts of their sneaker production.

Welcome home. It’s been here all along. T LABEL, a romantic wear brand, wants you to feel loved in your own skin, in your own shell. In the modern storms of nature, humans are prone to alienation. From the spaces we inhabit, tangible and digital dimensions to the flesh, no matter where we are, it sometimes feels strange. In their SS24 collection, ‘A Shell for a Human’, T LABEL examines relationships with what hosts our spirit, whether it’s a body or a house. What originally revokes the warmth of a primordial womb can easily be reinterpreted as the opposite under traumatic circumstances. T LABEL looks at our connection to the physical with empathy and affection, teaching us how to shelter ourselves once again. The SS24 collection explores the idea of a shell through forms and materials: beads sculpted around the head and arms act as upper body protection in the form of a turtleneck, the brand’s cult gloves wrap hands with sheer organza, words ‘Fashion Week Gives Me Anxiety’ spread across the statement skirt. “The show explores the human body as a shell and what my shell means to me. After having my first anxiety attack last October before our Paris show, I found the sensitivity of our bodies and how precious they are fascinating. I wanted to use the opportunity of showing this collection to be more honest about what it means to be a self-funded designer in this industry and the financial pressures of taking part in fashion week with small amounts of resources.” Taylor-Bea Gordon, Founder and Creative Director The variety of dresses, tops and bottoms reflects the diverse possibilities of what our ‘outer layers’ can be like, which are inspired by natural shapes and interior design. Vase holder bags bloom with flowers, celebrating the inside-out growth, the result of cultivating the shells. Deadstock and upcycled materials, passed from one artist to another in the name of creation, emphasise the concept of a shared, mobile home for humanity. T LABEL’s safe haven introduces a transcendently organic colour palette: brown, black, beige, green, pearl and crystal clear. Crawling back into ourselves, we invite the earth to join us.

De Fichier revealed their newest collection showcasing as part of the official LFW schedule through a presentation inviting their audience to explore, touch and connect with the garments in a fantastic showroom bringing nature from the outdoors to tie the experience together. The collection titled “Episode Three” is a reminder of how young the brand is yet how impressive their journey has been. The inspiration behind this collection is the dual identity of the uniform, which is both contradictory and ironic, as one hand it reveals someone’s social status and embodies their leadership, and on the other - it represents a member of a group who has to submit to social order and power, and this way blend into those groups. In a conversation with the brand manager, we discover that De Fichier actually use many different modern techniques and technology to develop their fabrics as well as the structure and even shoes which are 3D printed. In this collection the brand explores the changing attitudes towards futurism and the futuristic as we get closer and closer to the age previously depicted in sci-fi movies. The image built in society’s imagination is subjected to speculation which marks a perspective shift in how people see the future - they’ve built an imaginary world where people "wear silver jumpsuits and enjoy technological brilliance" which becomes different from reality.

Pam Hogg presented her SS24 collection titled “Apocalypse”, dedicated to Synead O’Connor, which she compares to Joan of Arc, and says to have resembled a similar fate - burning at the stake. Known as the "Caledonian Queen of Cling," she defied fashion norms with provocatively punk and original designs using counterculture materials like PVC and leather-infused jerseys with leather, gold lurex, sheer mesh, and metallics, many of which she has been repurposing for over two decades. Her clothes made it into the wardrobes of stars like Kate Moss and Lady Gaga, and the walls of prestigious art galleries around the world. Photography by Ki Price

Mark Fast delivers a street style celebration of colour to the catwalk of London Fashion Week for his Spring Summer 2024 collection. Titled “ Dawn to Dusk” it reminds us of nature’s timeless beauty with a touch of futuristic allure; as it seamlessly blends the mystique of desert landscapes with the promise of a vibrant dawn and the serenity of the evening. As the models step on the runway, we are presented wtih an array of expertly crafted looks, the first one being an all-black knit dress, featuring chunky knots which get finer reaching the legs and this way complimenting the body and creating this slim and tall silhouette. Or a long puffer jacket complimented by a paneled top revealed underneath in multiple shades of blue grabbing inspiration from the night skies and making sure you are warm in the desert’s nights. Guided by a profound appreciation for life's ever-changing rhythms, Fast's expertise shines through in carefully chosen linen blends, elastic stretch fabrics, and fresh light-weight denim. These materials ensure comfort under the scorching sun while embracing the chill of desert nights. Unisex designs and crochet beaded demi-couture pieces offer a versatile and elegant adaptability. The colour palette pays homage to the desert's enchanting beauty – from the vivid evening skies to sun-kissed denim, all accented by electrifying neon tones. Signature monogram accessories and futuristic canvas shoes add a contemporary edge, blending the past seamlessly with the future. This collection is designed for spirited youth culture, the trailblazers who revel in the desert's allure and embrace the vibrant dance of life. It effortlessly marries vintage aesthetics with modern flair, reflecting the dynamic spirit of those who live life with unapologetic zest.

In the world of fashion, the ways to unveil a clothing line are as diverse as the designs themselves. From digital showcases in studio settings to the runways of Paris Fashion Week, designers have explored myriad avenues. However, some fashion enthusiasts are taking the concept to a whole new level, creating an immersive Reality TV series that goes behind the scenes of fashion events. "The Artisan Way" promises to redefine how we experience fashion. Currently in the filming stages of its pilot episode in the alluring backdrop of Paris, "The Artisan Way" sets out to craft a magical event that transcends borders. International designers from around the world are arriving in the fashion capital to unveil their collections, setting the stage for an inspiring journey. Becky Mullins, one of the shows producers alongside her business partner Russ Ev says, "Starting in Paris makes sense because it's a dream spot for designers. But we're not stopping there. In every new episode, we'll take you to faraway places like Brazil, Colombia, India, Cyprus, and Indonesia. We want to show you what's happening behind the scenes, where skilled people are making these clothes.” "This show is about much more than fashion," says Mullins. "It's about uncovering the stories and skills that breathe life into each garment. It's about fostering an appreciation for conscious consumption, investing in artisans, and embracing the beauty of shopping local." "The Artisan Way" is a fresh take on fashion TV. It mixes style with real stories and shows how fashion connects people from around the world. With each episode, you'll travel to new places and discover how fashion is about more than just what you wear – it's a way of celebrating art, culture, and creativity. Stay tuned for "The Artisan Way," where fashion meets tradition in the coolest way possible! Follow Artisan way on Instagram @theartisanwaytv for all updates

With the venue being the current Four Seasons in Tower Hill, which in the 20th century was the Port of London Authority, or the area where immigrants arriving in the city would have to pass through in order to get their right-to-work; the show paid homage to the past and “the depths of human connection and the threads of migration that weave us together. “ This results in an emotional and culturally rich story, paying homage to the past, embracing the present and encouraging an even better connected future. Valuable stories were told and lessons were learned through these widely revered celebrations across West Africa. The showpieces pay direct homage to this with masks appearing throughout in printed textiles. Raffia and similar frayed fabrics nod to the materials used in the traditional masquerade attire. Blazers feature mask prints, symbolising the courageous faces of individuals who have found a new home, solace and inspiration here in London — a modern hub of culture and vibrant stories. In every stitch, there lies a profound story of movement and migration. Inspired by Mende and Temne tribal masks, each garment in this collection becomes a wearable canvas — a testament to the courage and resilience of those who have undertaken transformative journeys across borders and continents. On the site of what was formerly the headquarters of the Port of London Authority; The Four Seasons Hotel, 10 Trinity Square is a Grade II listed building that speaks to the journeys that have inspired this collection as historically migrants had to pass through this building when looking to work in London. Silhouettes are drawn from the 70s migration, accentuating the shape and exaggerating the volume of the garment so that they flow. Every detail represents the hopes, dreams, and aspirations of those who have sought new horizons, leaving behind imprints of their vibrant cultural heritage. A jacquard technique has been used to give exceptional dimensions to the fabrics, something which is not achievable with traditional printing. The yarns have been cut to reinforce this as they enable a transparency and almost sheerness to emphasise the pattern. This is a mechanical method where the machine cuts the floating yarns before sucking them in and shaving them to the desired length. As you wear these garments, you embody the journeys, aspirations, and spirit of those who have migrated and left an indelible mark on the fabric of society. “The storytelling of this adventure is on textiles through daring colours and patterns. As well as techniques such as screen printing, quilting, weave and knitwear all used to highlight this odyssey further,” says Foday. Every piece in “Nomoli Odyssey: A Migration of Style and Identity” is an ode to the human spirit, boldly declaring that style knows no boundaries. It’s informed by the pathfinders and adventurers who defied limitations, celebrating their heritage while creating a new narrative interlaced with cosmopolitan flair. Nomoli Odyssey celebrates the universal longing for connection, the power of human expression, and the unbreakable bonds that unite us all.

Paul Costelloe opened the official London Fashion Week schedule with a 9am show at the Horticultural Halls in Central London. Known for his fabulous bell dresses and classic looks reworked with modern prints and fresh colours, the designer did not disappoint. The collection masterfully titled “ Il Giardino “ ( “ The Garden “) was said by the designer to be the return of Romanticism to the catwalk. Featuring long and midi dresses, unstructured and relaxed blazers, bows, with a tennis racket in hand, the collection brought in a sense of nostalgia for a time I never lived or experienced before. Images by Sebastian Davies

The Yield Gallery in Soho has just announced a highly anticipated private viewing press night, titled “Urban Impressions”. It features an exceptional lineup of renowned artists including Fern, Richard Hambleton, Mathew Marquis, Basquiat, Banksy, and Mr Controversial. "Urban Impressions" brings together some of the most influential and innovative artists in the genre. The event aims to celebrate the diversity and vibrancy of street art while paying homage to the visionary works of these iconic artists. Highlighted Artists: 1. Fern: A British Painter Fern’s style displays the influence of a variety of contemporary painters and draws upon imagery from mid century posters. As a female artist Fern often demonstrates a joy in self assured femininity and female sexuality and expresses overt or implicit of the "man's world" in which she lives. Her rebellious art, combined with her free- spirited lifestyle, has made Fern a herald of today’s feminist culture that appeals to many contemporary collectors. 2. Richard Hambleton: Widely regarded as the godfather of street art a title he rejected began in 1976 with his mass murder series. Selling in cities across the world Richard Hambleton became an established artist.As Rochard became more established he began to paint on canvas, but fame didn’t satisfy Hambleton and by the nineties with a ever worsening drug habit he had fallen out of view. In 2011an exhibition touring milan, Moscow, cannes, paris then back to New York had catapulted Hambleton to high esteem and twice he appeared on the cover of Life magazine.in 2017 Oren Jacoby produced an award winning documentary shadowman which premiered at the TriBeca film festival. 3. Mathew Marquis: Matthew Marquis 42 is an American contemporary artist that inspires his oil paintings on canvas with a wide range of grotesque figures with bulging eyes, bulbous cheeks, proliferating limbs, and fractured faces evoke the allure and abjection of a carnival. Marquis has been painting for over 20 years in his hometown of Telford, Pennsylvania of the United States. The talented Marquis takes inspiration from artists including Pablo Picasso and George Condo integrating tenets of abstraction into a practice that ranges from macabre portraiture to more geometrical, less representational compositions. 4. Banksy: Arguably the most controversial street artist in the world, Banksy has developed an entire art subculture devoted to his works. Banksy’s art can impact any location at any given moment. His identity remains unknown, even after over 20 years of being involved with the graffiti scene. He has worked with many different types of street art media and street art types. His work not only includes many powerful, often controversial images, but they may also be found throughout the Internet as viral images. Banksy’s artwork has been seen across the world. His travels have included Australia, England, the United States, Israel, Jamaica, and even Canada. Most recently, he spent an entire month glamorising New York City with his street art, which grabbed the attention of thousands every day. The media and his supporters have always questioned Banksy’s identity due to a variety of identity claims. Most recently, many popular theories, including an entire newspaper publication, pointed his identity at being a Bristol native by the name of Robin Gunninham. If this is theory holds true, it will allow even greater insight into the artistic world Banksy inhibits. What is even more interesting is that he has managed to completely conceal his identity from his family. To this date, no Banksy identity claim has ever been definitive. Banksy’s artwork has been seen across the world, His travels have included Australia, England, the United States, Israel, Jamaica, and even Canada. Most recently, he spent an entire month glamorizing New York City with his street art, which grabbed the attention of thousands every day 5. Mr Controversial: Mr Controversial has been mentioned as the “one to watch” when it comes to rising artistic talent in the UK. He is hot off the back of multiple sell-out exhibitions and collections and has amassed a solid collector base that includes established collectors and a few well-known celebrities. Early on in his artistic career he raised eyebrows and quickly became known for his twist of vintage pulp imagery with funny, relatable captions. Most recently, the artist has been working on his new typographical oil paintings which are equally as bold, witty and riddled with truisms that we can all relate to. Due to the sharable nature of his work, it often goes viral and he aims to hit the sweet spot between social media viral content and contemporary fine art. From his new collection, you can expect oil paintings with deep textures, vibrant colours satirical messages which the artist will be releasing through a handful of entrusted selected galleries globally. "Urban Impressions" promises to be an evening filled with creativity, inspiration, and artistic exploration. The Yield Gallery in Soho is known for its commitment to showcasing groundbreaking contemporary art. With its chic and modern setting, it provides the perfect backdrop for this extraordinary event, where art enthusiasts, collectors, and the press can come together to celebrate the world of urban art.