As the sun set on one of the busiest days of London Fashion Week, stepping into Tolu Coker's runway show felt like returning to a cherished home. The venue, adorned with vibrant ’70s graphics and framed photographs of proud Black women, created a captivating atmosphere reminiscent of a nostalgic family gathering. Mid-century furniture lined the runway, with teak sofas, a lavish dinner table, and hand-carved busts transforming the space into a celebration of heritage and community. Coker’s intention was clear: to honor her mother, Olapeju Coker, and explore the significance of living rooms as cultural gathering spaces for immigrant communities. In her collection, titled "Olapeju," Coker skillfully wove together personal history and broader narratives of immigration. Drawing inspiration from her childhood home in North Kensington, the pieces echoed the vibrant style of the late '60s and early '70s, marked by sharp tailoring and playful silhouettes. Leather Harringtons, oversized denim, and swinging halternecks evoked a sense of joyous nostalgia, while the craftsmanship reflected a commitment to sustainability. Coker's designs not only showcased her technical prowess but also celebrated the beauty and resilience of the communities that shaped her upbringing. The show culminated in a spirited finale led by British supermodel Jourdan Dunn, where models danced down the runway, embodying Coker's vision of luxury as an accessible celebration of craft and culture. “Joy was also a means of resistance,” Coker explained, emphasizing her desire to reshape narratives around Black experiences. This was more than just a fashion show; it was a vibrant testament to community, heritage, and the uplifting power of storytelling through design. In a world often overshadowed by elitism, Coker’s collection reminded us that fashion can indeed be a joyful, inclusive celebration.

At Fendi's Spring/Summer 2025 show, Kim Jones honoured the house’s rich legacy while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. Opening Milan Fashion Week, the collection was a tribute to Fendi’s century-long journey, with Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi celebrating the four generations of women who have shaped the brand. A heartfelt conversation between Silvia and her mother, Anna, played over the sound system, setting the tone for a show rooted in tradition but reimagined for the present — a perfect reflection of the balance between family and fashion. The collection captured the spirit of the 1920s, the decade in which Adele Fendi founded the house, with nods to Jazz Age silhouettes and Art Deco motifs. Yet, Jones took these historical references and modernized them for today’s woman. Gauzy, drop-waist dresses with pearl-edged botanical reliefs blended seamlessly with sleek sportswear-inspired details, creating a thoughtful juxtaposition between vintage elegance and contemporary cool. The accessories and footwear, led by Silvia Venturini Fendi, echoed this duality. The collection’s collaboration with heritage bootmaker Red Wing was an unexpected but brilliant contrast to the otherwise delicate looks. The rugged moccasin boots, paired with ruffled socks and feminine floral tea dresses, encapsulated the idea of the practical yet liberated woman — a nod to the essence of Fendi’s female-driven history. This was a collection that celebrated not only Fendi’s past but also its future, always with women at its heart.

London Fashion Week has come to a close, but the echoes of creativity and inspiration continue to reverberate in our minds. This season, we witnessed an array of transformative shows that not only showcased the latest in luxury fashion but also ignited conversations around identity, sustainability, and self-expression. As we reflect on these remarkable presentations, here are the standout shows we hope to see again. Di Petsa Di Petsa's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "My Body Is a Labyrinth," offered a poignant exploration of deeply personal themes surrounding menstruation and self-pleasure, all through the rich tapestry of Greek mythology. With models adorned in sunburnt skin and period stains, the visceral imagery challenged societal taboos, emphasizing body autonomy and liberation. The introduction of bold menswear was a brilliant nod to inclusivity, making this collection not just a show but a movement toward self-acceptance. Check our full coverage here . Mithridate Mithridate’s presentation captivated attendees with its homage to the designer's Yunnan roots. The collection fused traditional techniques like tie-dye with modern silhouettes, showcasing a pearl-embellished dress and a woven jacket that brought sound into the fashion experience. The vibrant aesthetic, coupled with the presence of celebrities such as Jameela Jamil, made this show a beautiful celebration of heritage, nature, and innovation. Check our full coverage here . Paul Costelloe Paul Costelloe's "Le Ciel est Bleu" transported us to a sun-drenched Parisian boulevard. His collection, rich in pastel hues and floral jacquards, exuded romance and nostalgia. The debut bridal line showcased minimalist gowns that contrasted elegantly with playful accessories, reflecting Costelloe's keen eye for balancing classic elegance with contemporary trends. The charming details, like striped socks with stilettos, made this collection a true standout. Check our full coverage here . Simone Rocha Set against the dramatic backdrop of the Old Bailey, Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection blended femininity with bold, deconstructed designs. The use of unfinished garments and crystal embellishments created a narrative that redefined modern femininity. Collaborations with Crocs introduced a playful element, while references to renowned choreographers elevated the collection to a performance art piece, captivating all who witnessed it. Check our full coverage here . Sinead Gorey Sinead Gorey reimagined prom through the eyes of a rebellious anti-heroine. Her collection, with candy-colored body-cons and punk-inspired elements like pierced corsets, captured the essence of youthful defiance. The playful integration of technology into fashion showcased a forward-thinking approach, celebrating the nonconformity of the modern girl while embracing a blend of innocence and edge. Check our full coverage here . Erdem Erdem’s collection, inspired by Radclyffe Hall’s groundbreaking novel The Well of Loneliness , explored gender fluidity and queer self-expression. With a stunning mix of tailored suits and ethereal dresses, the collection harmoniously juxtaposed masculine and feminine aesthetics. The introduction of the Bloom Bag symbolized a celebration of individuality, resonating deeply with those who dare to defy societal norms. Check our full coverage here . Helen Anthony Set in the opulent Kimpton Fitzroy hotel, Helen Anthony’s show blended avant-garde design with traditional tailoring. The diverse range of styles showcased a commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. This collection exemplified how modern fashion can both honour heritage and challenge conventions. Check our full coverage here . Yaku Yaku’s debut collection, "The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space," intricately wove Afrofuturism with personal history. Each of the four distinct tableaus—The Library, Reflection, Combat, and The Forest—told a story rich in identity and resilience. The innovative use of sustainable fabrics and the introduction of womenswear showcased Yaku's commitment to both fantasy and wearability, making this presentation a deeply emotional experience. Check our full coverage here .

In a season marked by powerful narratives and explorations of identity, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection stood as a testament to the intersection of fashion, history, and self-expression. Unveiled against the grand backdrop of the British Museum, the collection took its cue from Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness . With this daring inspiration, Erdem ventured beyond aesthetic elegance to pay homage to queer identity, the tension between masculine and feminine, and the transformative power of clothing. Drawing directly from Hall’s life and work, Erdem delved into the narrative of Stephen Gordon, the novel’s protagonist, and Hall’s own exploration of gender identity. The show opened with a parade of tailored suits in navy pinstripes and tuxedo jackets, designed in collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton. The title page of The Well of Loneliness appeared as a badge of honor on the sleeve of each suit—a tribute to Hall’s bravery and the enduring legacy of her work. Alongside these sharply tailored pieces, flowing tea dresses in pale peach and mint shades embodied the push and pull between gender expression, a duality that permeated the entire collection. The runway also reflected this tension in its beauty looks, where hairstylist Adam Garland's sharp side-parted updos and braids captured the show's masculine-feminine theme. Models with short hair donned slicked-back styles, while those with longer hair sported structured cornrows—an embodiment of strength and fluidity. Makeup artist Amy Conway leaned into genderless beauty, giving models a luminous, “boyish” complexion with brushed-up brows and natural tones that allowed imperfections to shine through. This raw, real representation complemented the collection’s theme, grounding the ethereal fabrics and intricate embellishments in something deeply human. Erdem’s storytelling continued in the accessories, with the debut of the Bloom Bag, a sculptural piece that married hard and soft elements. The hammered metal floral handle contrasted with the supple leather body, mirroring the collection's overall interplay of strength and delicacy. As models carried the Bloom Bag close to their bodies—clutching it like a precious token of individuality—the collection whispered its message: Fashion is not just about beauty, but about breaking boundaries. Through its homage to queer history, gender fluidity, and love, Erdem’s SS25 collection offered a poignant reminder that self-expression transcends societal norms, celebrating the courage to live authentically.

Stepping into Apujan’s Spring/Summer 2025 show was like tumbling down a rabbit hole—and loving every minute of it. Imagine sipping from an Alice in Wonderland teacup, where suddenly everything feels distorted, playful, and ever so slightly off-kilter. Objects that should be small appear enormous, and those that seem ordinary are now teetering between worlds. Apu Jan, known for weaving literature—especially fantasy—into his designs, takes us on another whimsical journey this season, aptly titled “Mirror, Keys and Drink Me.” The Alice reference is impossible to miss, but this time, it’s not just a nod to Wonderland; it's a commentary on our modern lives, where reality and virtual reality blur, and we’re left questioning the size and space of both objects and ourselves. Every look on the runway felt like a magician pulling a new surprise from their hat—archetypes appeared one after another: a student, chess pieces, clowns, a mad hatter, even a rabbit. Yet none of it veered into costume territory. Instead, Apujan’s brilliance lies in his ability to take these symbols of fantasy and elevate them into high fashion, each piece telling its own story while contributing to the larger narrative. Supersized accessories were everywhere—think giant yarn, an oversized pencil, enormous playing cards, and chess pieces repurposed as helmets. The drama and theatre infused into every detail struck the perfect balance, keeping the collection playful but not gimmicky. Among the standout pieces: an opening look that set the tone—a black-and-white checkered pirate hat adorned with chess pieces, paired with a dress in the same motif, but in unexpected shades of light and dark green. Then came a full electric-blue ensemble—a chunky knit top with an asymmetric fit, paired with low-rise, wide-leg trousers—that felt both modern and completely in tune with the show’s larger-than-life fantasy. Apujan closed out London Fashion Week with this theatrical, deeply imaginative collection. If this is the finale, we can’t wait to see what comes next. Take a closer look at the rest of the collection below.

Marco Capaldo’s 16Arlington stunned on the third day of London Fashion Week, unveiling a collection that signaled a significant shift in tone. The brand, which had explored darker, more melancholic aesthetics in recent seasons, stepped into a new dawn for Spring/Summer 2025. Set inside the ethereal halls of the Royal Academy of Arts, Capaldo presented a collection inspired by a renewed sense of lightness, fittingly titled “The Heat.” Accompanied by the scent of blooming mimosa from Diptyque and biodegradable confetti underfoot, the mood was young, wild, and undeniably free. The collection opened with radiant shades of yellow drenching tailored trench coats, pencil skirts, and dresses with contrasting collars. There was an effortless edge to the leather moto uniforms, revealing metallic bras, while snakeskin handbags added an animalistic energy. But 16Arlington didn’t stop there—sumptuous fur coats paired with hot pants, and fringe frocks swung with bold sensuality. Feathers, a brand signature, were reimagined in gradient hues, bursting from beaded and sequined eveningwear. The collection, though vibrant and playful, carried an undercurrent of complexity. Drawing inspiration from Pedro Almodóvar’s The Skin I Live In , Capaldo’s use of colour and mood channelled the film’s haunting beauty, melding darkness and sensuality. From the waxed raffia techniques to the exquisite craftsmanship of hand-crocheted beads, 16Arlington’s SS25 line-up reflected Capaldo’s vision of a woman illuminated by the most magical light—at dusk, at dawn, always confident in her skin.