Untitlab® has always been a brand known for pushing boundaries, but their Spring/Summer 2025 performance took the brand to a new level, staging an atmospheric plunge into the depths of human desire and its unrelenting tension with fulfilment. Staged in a dark, fog-filled room with chains suspended from the ceiling and an eerie, ambient soundscape, set the tone for an intense meditation on desire, death, and the rebirth of sensuality—themes Untitlab® explored in both their designs and their storytelling. Photo by Yiling Zhao The brand’s press release referenced the French philosopher Georges Bataille’s work Erotism: Death and Sensuality , using his evocative language to guide the audience through the emotional and psychological underpinnings of the collection: “How sweet it is to gaze long upon the object of our desire, to live on in our desire, instead of dying by going the whole way, by yielding to the excessive violence of desire! We know that possession of the object we are a fire for is out of the question. It is one thing or another: either desire will consume us entirely, or its object will cease to fi re us with longing. We can possess it on one condition only, that gradually the desire it arouses will fade. Better for desire to die than for us to die, though! We can make do with an illusion. If we possess its object we shall seem to achieve our desire without dying. Not only do we renounce death, but also we let our desire, really the desire to die, lay hold of its object and we keep it while we live on. We enrich our life instead of losing it.” Untitlab® is one of those brands that feels less like a label and more like an art collective. Launched in 2019, its name pulls from that intriguing moment when artists leave their works “untitled,” acknowledging that what they’ve created refuses to be boxed in or simplified. That same spirit of experimentation pulses through untitlab®’s approach to footwear and accessories. The brand’s designers pull from their backgrounds, environments, and use cutting-edge materials to craft bold, unconventional silhouettes. But what really sets them apart is their multi-disciplinary approach to storytelling. Untitlab® isn’t just about the shoes; it’s about the multimedia experience — performances, music, video, and imagery — that conveys their take on everything from power dynamics and beauty standards to the fluidity of gender and the fragility of the human condition. Each piece is an invitation to reinterpret and redefine, making the wearer an active participant in the narrative. Drawing from untitlab®'s adventurous ethos, the SS25 collection immerses itself in themes of exploration and boundary-breaking. With vibrant colours and dynamic shapes, it encapsulates a powerful sense of freedom. This season, we’re pushing the limits of innovative craftsmanship by collaborating with the eco-friendly British wool brand Cloudwool to introduce mule bags and slip-ons, alongside HILOS Studio for fully recyclable 3D-printed shoes. We’re also thrilled to partner with artist *toooomyng for the inflatable rubber Reel Boots, adding an artistic twist to our offerings. In a bold reimagining of formal wear, we’ve integrated sneakers into our new Helix thick-soled racing shoe series and Malar Boots, both made with cutting-edge overall embossing technology. Each piece is designed not just to be worn but to inspire a lifestyle of exploration and creativity. Presentation credits: Concept and directed: Nicolas Tian Music composition:Oscar B.Morgan Choreography: Lewis Walker Rehearsal Director: Courtney Deyn Performers: Alex Thirkle and Andrew Lennox Scott Campaign credits: Art Direction: Nicolas Tian Styling: Orch Leong Hair and MUA: Wendi Liu Talent: Han Zhang, Yang Yang Light: Mu Styling Assistant: Levi, Suki Production: Pyogi Public

Every season, London Fashion Week introduces fresh talent, but few debuts have been as immersive and personal as Yaku's. This year, the designer label, led by Yaku, made its mark with an evocative presentation titled “The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space: Looking Back to Look Forward to Look Back Again.” Fresh off a 2023 graduate collection from Central Saint Martins that secured the L'Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, Yaku’s Spring/Summer 2025 showcase was not just a fashion presentation but a narrative experience. Set in the heart of 180 Strand, Yaku transformed the space into a fantasy realm where Afrofuturism met personal history. Four tableaus— The Library, Reflection, Combat, and The Forest —told a story inspired by the designer’s family, imagined as characters within a video game. The result was an interactive performance, with actors embodying these avatars in scenes that brought Yaku’s vision to life. It was an approach that broke the mold of traditional runways, inviting the audience to engage with fashion as a living, breathing story. Photography by Oscar Finnnie Sustainability was also at the heart of Yaku’s SS25 collection. Using deadstock fabrics re-dyed and manipulated in-house, Yaku brought a thoughtful, eco-conscious edge to the fantasy. For the first time, the brand introduced womenswear, fluid and graceful alongside the structured menswear pieces, all tied together by natural and prehistoric motifs. Yaku’s creations felt at once otherworldly and grounded, wearable yet conceptual. Beyond the visual impact, what truly set Yaku’s debut apart was the emotional narrative woven throughout the collection. Family, identity, and time itself were layered into every design and tableau. The bold color palette and sculptural silhouettes were striking, but it was the underlying themes of connection, history, and legacy that made the presentation linger long after it ended. With The ImPossible Family Reunion, Yaku didn’t just present a collection—he shared a story, showing that his work is about pushing the boundaries of both fashion and storytelling. The Library: Photography by Oscar Finnnie In The Library , three characters—Grandad, Stephanie, and Karis—gather in preparation for an intellectual battle. They study ancient texts, drawing lessons from the past to guide their future path. The space symbolizes not just knowledge, but responsibility; they are not simply learning for themselves, but preserving wisdom for generations to come. In Yaku’s world, learning becomes a sacred duty, a way to ensure the survival and success of those who follow. Reflection: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Reflection offered a moment of inward exploration. Dad is seen levitating, suspended in a state of meditation. His present self and past self are mirrored, as if both are reliving moments and decisions that shaped him. This space encapsulates the importance of self-awareness, of looking back to understand the journey ahead. In Yaku’s vision, reflection is not just a pause but a powerful tool for navigating the future, where past and present converge in moments of clarity. Combat: Photography by Oscar Finnnie The energy heightens in Combat , where Amir and Nathaniel engage in a dynamic, physical struggle. Their movements are swift, their bond growing stronger with each bout. Here, Yaku uses the concept of combat to symbolize resilience and unity. The fight is not only external but internal, with both characters supporting each other after every skirmish. This tableau captures the essence of camaraderie, where challenges are met with both physical and emotional strength, and the drive to lift each other up becomes paramount. The Forest: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Finally, The Forest provided a moment of quiet strength. Mum, Ricky, and Lorrelle are seen seated among ancient trees, their presence as steady as the roots they sit upon. In this space, sustenance is key; the trio prepares fish together, nourishing both their bodies and spirits for the trials ahead. Yaku uses this tableau to reflect on the cycles of life—survival, continuity, and the need to nurture the collective. The scene is a reminder that growth and endurance are tied to community and care, a sentiment that resonates throughout the entire collection. Yaku’s SS25 debut was nothing short of a revelation, redefining the boundaries of fashion presentations. His ability to merge conceptual design with rich storytelling has cemented him as a significant new voice in the industry, and it’s clear that The ImPossible Family Reunion is just the beginning of what’s to come from this visionary designer.

At London Fashion Week, Dimitra Petsa of Di Petsa unveiled a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that pushed the boundaries of intimacy and self-acceptance, continuing her fearless exploration of the female body and the divine feminine. With her collection titled “My Body Is a Labyrinth,” Petsa used Greek mythology as a metaphor to confront societal taboos, focusing on themes of menstruation and self-pleasure. The show’s standout motif, the Minotaur, represented the shame and guilt women often carry, with menstruation used as a symbol of that inner struggle. Models walked with fake sunburn, sand in their hair, and period stains streaking down their legs, unapologetically embodying a raw and visceral sense of femininity. Di Petsa’s signature wet-look designs were ever-present, but this season, the emphasis was on heat — dry, scorching, and deeply intimate. A powerful phrase, “shame is self-inflicted,” appeared emblazoned on a towel-inspired wrap skirt, grounding the collection’s message of liberation from societal expectations. The addition of menswear, a bold new direction for Petsa, saw body-sculpting pleated shirting and "hard-on" denim, challenging traditional notions of male sensuality. The entire experience was immersive, complete with a soundscape of cicadas and hypnotic electronica, evoking the suffocating heat of summer. As models mimicked Minotaur horns with blood-stained hands and tangled themselves in a blood-red ball of yarn, Petsa’s vision of self-discovery through pleasure came to life. Her SS25 show was not just a collection but an evocative narrative, pushing the conversation forward on the complexities of womanhood, body autonomy, and sensuality.

Bora Aksu’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, was a deeply personal tribute to his late mother, Birsen. Set in the sunlit gardens of St. Paul’s Church in Covent Garden, the show blended nostalgic elegance with heartfelt emotion, honoring her life through delicate fabrics, vintage silhouettes, and floral motifs. Aksu’s mother had been an ever-present influence throughout his career, but this collection was his most direct homage yet, a love letter stitched into every seam. Key pieces, like a hand-stitched white mini dress adorned with ostrich feathers, were salvaged from her estate, each garment carrying a personal story. Knitted twin sets and jacquard sweater vests recalled her early days as a young doctor in Turkey, while weightless silk tulle gowns reflected her nurturing side. Floral appliqués and prints inspired by the dahlias from her garden symbolized her love of nature, as she was happiest tending to her flowers, a detail woven into the collection's softer, feminine touches. The 1960s influence was evident in the belted jackets and pencil skirts, while Aksu’s signature tiered tulle appeared in ethereal, almost-Grecian folds. Models walked the runway with bouffant beehives and cat’s eye sunglasses—an homage to Birsen’s personal style. Each piece felt like a bridge between past and present, a way of preserving Aksu’s memories of his mother as they faded with time. In the end, Aksu reflected on the emotional depth of the collection, saying, “Fashion lives inside you.” With each design, he not only celebrated his mother’s life but also highlighted the profound grief of loss. This season’s collection wasn’t just an ode to his muse—it was a reminder that fashion, at its most powerful, connects us to the people and memories we hold dear.

Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 show at London Fashion Week marked a striking evolution for the brand, blending its signature spiked knitwear with a newfound elegance. Paying homage to Mai-Wah Cheung, a trailblazer in computer science and digital media, the collection explored the delicate balance between power and vulnerability. Titled “Mai’s Blossoms,” the collection reinterpreted Cheung’s professional wardrobe, introducing soft draping and fluidity to Chet Lo’s typically sharp designs, with each of the 31 looks serving as a tribute to her strength and adaptability. Opening with sheer organza dresses featuring digital “glitch” patterns—a nod to Cheung’s technology career—the collection progressed with textured knitwear in black and blue, asymmetrical skirts, and translucent knee panels. Chet Lo’s iconic spikes were reimagined in softer, more structured forms, while cloaked mini dresses and manipulated pleated trousers added an experimental edge. The finale featured fruit-shaped glass beads, an homage to Cheung’s artistic journey, symbolizing her transition from corporate life to creativity. The collection wove together Cheung’s evolution from corporate powerhouse to artist, with cobalt plaids in gauzy dresses and sleek charcoal gowns echoing the contrasts in her life. Refined woven techniques hinted at Chet Lo’s own maturation as a brand, moving towards a more demure, elegant aesthetic while still maintaining its punky, club-kid roots. These pieces signaled a desire to elevate the brand’s identity through a deeper narrative. In a touching finale, the show celebrated transformation, honoring the women who inspire. Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection wasn’t just about spiked knitwear or bold statements—it was about finding strength in softness and reflecting the emotional journey of growth and change.

BUERLANGMA’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Capsule 5, made a bold statement at London Fashion Week, weaving together elements of cultural heritage, history, and cutting-edge design. The Beijing-based fashion house, led by visionary designers Qiqi Yuan and Crystal Wang, has rapidly risen to prominence since its founding in 2020, and this season’s collection showcased their signature fusion of Eastern tradition and modern fashion innovation. The collection, split into five sub-themes—Desire, Power, Degenerate Peace, and Vold—explored themes like the historical intersection of power and fashion, notably through Rococo-inspired pieces that critiqued the influence of nobility on European style. The masks, inspired by traditional Manchu ethnic clothing, added depth to the collection, symbolizing BUERLANGMA’s commitment to honoring cultural legacies while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. BUERLANGMA’s Capsule 5 was a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. The collection was built on intricate techniques, such as Chinese origami-inspired folds, that harkened back to festival traditions. Yet it also embraced modernity with avant-garde elements that juxtaposed historical influences. The highlight of the runway came when models in oversized black coats revealed intricately designed dresses underneath, symbolizing the evolution of fashion over time. This dramatic transformation celebrated the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week while showcasing BUERLANGMA’s forward-thinking approach and ability to connect past and future through design. Collaboration was key to the success of BUERLANGMA’s SS25 collection. With contributions from artists and designers across various fields, the brand embraced a diverse range of perspectives that enriched the collection’s depth. Through these bold and multifaceted creations, BUERLANGMA reaffirmed its place as a leader in the fashion world, merging Eastern and Western influences and redefining the peaks of creativity and ambition on a global stage.