Francesco Risso’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Marni was nothing short of a surrealist daydream, an ode to abstract beauty with a whisper of madness. In his ninth year at the helm, Risso has honed his craft, balancing eccentricity with restraint in a way that still feels uniquely Marni. Presented in the brand’s headquarters, the show unfolded in a labyrinth of seating amidst three grand pianos, casting an almost theatrical air of suspense. This enigmatic atmosphere was only heightened by a cryptic poem placed on each seat, setting the tone for what would be a journey into Risso’s interpretation of beauty—elusive, fleeting, and uncontainable.
The collection itself was an exploration in texture and silhouette, with Risso leaning heavily into the use of cotton, a fabric he called “the purity of beauty.” Beginning with sleek, fitted knits and progressing to voluminous forms, the show oscillated between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics, a balance that felt both deliberate and spontaneous. Structured, broad-shoulder jackets over form-fitting skirts gave way to grand evening gowns adorned with blown-up roses and shredded cotton feathers, evoking a sense of blooming chaos. Risso’s signature whimsy was on full display with distorted shapes, Napoleonic hats, and artful, almost sculptural pieces—each more captivating than the last.
But beneath the playful theatrics, there was an intellectual depth. Risso layered literary references into the collection, from snippets of poetry to Dante Alighieri's profile on jerseys, adding a reflective quality to the runway. The live piano score, crescendoing in harmony with the shifting looks, further amplified the sense of fluidity between fashion and art. Risso’s world is one where beauty is not merely seen, but chased—a white rabbit darting through a dark forest, forever out of reach yet ever enchanting.
Photography: Giovanni Giannoni
Courtesy of Marni
