Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a striking exploration of creativity, blending innovative design with classic elegance. Known for its meticulous tailoring and bold approach, the brand captured attention with a collection that pushed boundaries while remaining true to its roots. Set in the elegant Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel, the runway showcased a diverse range of styles that felt both contemporary and familiar. Each piece resonated with the essence of Helen Anthony, yet this season revealed a notable shift in the designer’s experimental vision, all while honouring the craftsmanship inherent to Savile Row. Photography by Darren Brade The show opened with an eye-catching array of sheer dresses and pearl-beaded sets, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship the brand is celebrated for. Long fringe dresses, evoking the spirit of the 1920s, were updated with a modern, laid-back rockstar vibe. Silky and metallic pieces followed suit, including a standout dress coat with striking power shoulders and a dramatic tail, as well as belted midi coats featuring the brand’s signature buckles. Photography by Darren Brade Naeem Anthony has a knack for reinterpreting formalwear, and this collection did not disappoint. Suits took on a vibrant twist in shades of green, cobalt blue, and bold red, with sharp dagger collars and sleek black ties adding an executive edge. A voluminous midnight blue coat offered a playful touch, while slinky trenches in an array of colours signaled a seamless transition from office to after-hours. The collection also introduced a fun take on office wear, with boxy silhouettes—think blazers over washed pink shorts, or a cropped blazer edged in white that felt almost cartoonish. Tartan reappeared in clever adaptations, woven into playsuits, mini dresses, and impeccably tailored suits, grounding the collection in heritage while keeping it relevant. Naeem's connection to fashion history is deeply personal, inspired by the tailoring techniques of his great-grandmother, Helen Thomas. This season’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxton Yarns, founded in 1907, added another layer of significance. Hand-knitted, multi-coloured crochet details adorned many pieces, perfectly aligning with Naeem’s commitment to sustainability—every fabric and yarn is crafted in the UK, much of it woven in Scotland. As the final looks graced the runway, it was evident that this collection was more than just a showcase of style; it was a manifesto for the future of fashion. Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 show invited us to rethink norms, embrace fluidity, and celebrate the limitless possibilities that fashion can offer. In a world that often feels constricting, Naeem Anthony encourages us to explore, experiment, and ultimately redefine what it means to dress for ourselves.

For Spring/Summer 2025, Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander into a cinematic exploration of darkness and light, blending rugged Americana with the dystopian chill of “Blade Runner.” Against a moody, almost melancholic backdrop, the collection felt like a reflection of the times we’re living in—a world clouded with uncertainty. Lucie Meier herself acknowledged the weight of the present, noting, “the world is a bit in a dark moment.” But far from being somber, the designs were imbued with the Meiers’ signature precision, balancing minimalism with texture and mood. The influence of Canadian photographer Greg Girard was unmistakable, with his iconic neon-lit, foggy urban streetscapes serving as the atmospheric foundation. The collection played out in Girard’s haunting palette of petrol blues and deep burgundy, as models walked in sharp, boxy coats and suits. The juxtaposition of the Meiers’ tailored silhouettes with subtle Western nods—like pointed yokes and snakeskin boots—added a rustic, yet refined edge. It was as if the Wild West met the future, where cowboy aesthetics collided with the eerie glow of a dystopian city. Yet, amid the darkness, there were moments of softness. Crocheted florals, delicate frills, and handcrafted details lightened the mood, bringing warmth and a touch of nostalgia to otherwise structured looks. Wide-leg pants, bowling shirts, and minimalist varsity jackets evoked the cinematic allure of mid-century style, while ribbed-knit dresses trimmed with silver pearls provided a delicate contrast to the glossy leathers and meaty tailoring. The Meiers offered a nuanced collection that suggested, even in dark times, fashion can serve as both armour and expression.

Francesco Risso’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Marni was nothing short of a surrealist daydream, an ode to abstract beauty with a whisper of madness. In his ninth year at the helm, Risso has honed his craft, balancing eccentricity with restraint in a way that still feels uniquely Marni. Presented in the brand’s headquarters, the show unfolded in a labyrinth of seating amidst three grand pianos, casting an almost theatrical air of suspense. This enigmatic atmosphere was only heightened by a cryptic poem placed on each seat, setting the tone for what would be a journey into Risso’s interpretation of beauty—elusive, fleeting, and uncontainable. The collection itself was an exploration in texture and silhouette, with Risso leaning heavily into the use of cotton, a fabric he called “the purity of beauty.” Beginning with sleek, fitted knits and progressing to voluminous forms, the show oscillated between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics, a balance that felt both deliberate and spontaneous. Structured, broad-shoulder jackets over form-fitting skirts gave way to grand evening gowns adorned with blown-up roses and shredded cotton feathers, evoking a sense of blooming chaos. Risso’s signature whimsy was on full display with distorted shapes, Napoleonic hats, and artful, almost sculptural pieces—each more captivating than the last. But beneath the playful theatrics, there was an intellectual depth. Risso layered literary references into the collection, from snippets of poetry to Dante Alighieri's profile on jerseys, adding a reflective quality to the runway. The live piano score, crescendoing in harmony with the shifting looks, further amplified the sense of fluidity between fashion and art. Risso’s world is one where beauty is not merely seen, but chased—a white rabbit darting through a dark forest, forever out of reach yet ever enchanting. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni Courtesy of Marni

The MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collaboration is a lesson in fashion's delightful contradictions. This capsule collection is a heady mix of retro glamour and futuristic fantasy, perfectly encapsulating the tension between the past and the future. Quinn, known for his theatrical approach to design, brings his signature boldness, transforming MAX&Co.'s sleek aesthetic into something both visionary and wearable. At the heart of this collection is MAi—an eclectic series of crêpe de chine dresses, tailored Space Age jackets, and second-skin coordinates, all punctuated by Quinn's iconic floral patterns. The collection feels like a trip through time, pulling inspiration from French haute couture while propelling you toward a dystopian chic. The vivid colours, meticulous cuts, and unapologetically playful details invite the wearer to push boundaries, embodying an avant-garde spirit without sacrificing elegance. It's the kind of collection that invites fashion lovers to experiment—to be bold, daring, and a little rebellious, all while wrapped in the luxury of expertly crafted pieces. This is Quinn at his most sophisticated, yet with a wink of playful irreverence, turning each look into a wearable statement that celebrates individuality. In a world where fashion constantly rewrites itself, the MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collection proves that the future of style isn’t about leaving the past behind but embracing it with an innovative twist.

Roksanda’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a poetic reflection on the delicate balance between nature and modernity. Inspired by the work of Hungarian artist Agnes Denes, particularly her 1982 installation Wheatfield – A Confrontation , the collection explored the tension between organic beauty and the encroaching industrial world. The runway was a vision of earthy tones, with neutral tailoring, raffia-fringed dresses, and sculptural details that spoke to both Denes’ symbolic wheatfields and Roksanda’s own Serbian roots. The designer’s cultural heritage added depth to the narrative, where wheat holds a powerful place in Eastern European folklore and identity. Set against the brutalist backdrop of London’s Space House, the collection felt like a conversation between the natural world and urban life. Clean, architectural lines in tailored jackets and coats were softened by flowing taffeta gowns in shades of mint, aubergine, and melon, evoking a sense of romanticism amidst the starkness. With bold fringe and textural contrasts, Roksanda seamlessly fused structure with fluidity, offering a thoughtful, visually compelling meditation on the beauty of resilience in both nature and design.

Crocs and Simone Rocha are at it again, and this time they've upped the ante on the runway. Unveiling their third collaborative collection, the Simone Rocha x Crocs Stomp Fisherman Sandal made its bold debut at the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 show, read our article here . With its exaggerated silhouette and unmistakable Rocha flair, this season’s offering is a testament to how seamlessly these two brands can merge their distinct identities. As always, Rocha's romantic, feminine touch is front and centre, this time paired with the practical, chunky charm of Crocs. The Stomp Fisherman Sandal is the perfect marriage of avant-garde and everyday utility, made striking with the addition of Rocha’s signature embellishments—think pearls and crystals that catch the light and turn the once-humble sandal into a runway-worthy piece. Coming in three irresistible hues—Black, Cream, and a vibrant Hot Pink—this collection is sure to draw attention, whether on the streets or on the feet of the fashion elite. Set to drop in Spring 2025, you’ll be able to score a pair through Simone Rocha’s stores and online, Crocs’ digital storefront, and select retailers. Who would have thought that Crocs could be this chic? In the hands of Simone Rocha, they’re not just footwear—they’re a statement.