Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a visual feast, blending performance art with fashion in a way that felt both intimate and daring. Held at the historic Old Bailey, Rocha's runway paid homage to the work of choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, infusing the collection with a theatrical, dance-inspired energy. This season, Rocha explored the tension between perfection and imperfection, as models appeared half-dressed, showcasing unfinished garments and highlighting the construction process itself.
Opening with a monochromatic palette, Rocha played with proportion and contrast—think oversized coats paired with ballerina skirts and thick-cut socks. These looks combined masculine and feminine elements, creating a sense of duality that has become central to her design ethos. The details were everything: crystal-encrusted socks, flower-adorned anoraks, and lingerie-like bralettes peeking through undone jackets.
Floral motifs took centre stage in the second half of the show, as carnation-covered gowns and petal-strewn dresses cascaded down the runway. These blooms, delicate yet powerful, embodied the collection’s romanticism. New to the runway was denim, embellished with crystals and reimagined as high-fashion through corseted jackets and oversized jeans, a nod to Rocha’s stint at Jean Paul Gaultier.
Rocha’s collaboration with Crocs continued to be a highlight, with platformed ballerina flats and embellished slip-ons in muted tones. Her ability to turn the pragmatic into the ornate shone through, cementing her place as a designer who consistently challenges norms.
Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was not just about fashion—it was a performance, a living tableau of contradictions and contrasts. By pushing boundaries, Rocha once again redefined modern femininity, blending delicacy with rebellion in a way that feels undeniably her own.
