For Spring/Summer 2025, Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander into a cinematic exploration of darkness and light, blending rugged Americana with the dystopian chill of “Blade Runner.” Against a moody, almost melancholic backdrop, the collection felt like a reflection of the times we’re living in—a world clouded with uncertainty. Lucie Meier herself acknowledged the weight of the present, noting, “the world is a bit in a dark moment.” But far from being somber, the designs were imbued with the Meiers’ signature precision, balancing minimalism with texture and mood.
The influence of Canadian photographer Greg Girard was unmistakable, with his iconic neon-lit, foggy urban streetscapes serving as the atmospheric foundation. The collection played out in Girard’s haunting palette of petrol blues and deep burgundy, as models walked in sharp, boxy coats and suits. The juxtaposition of the Meiers’ tailored silhouettes with subtle Western nods—like pointed yokes and snakeskin boots—added a rustic, yet refined edge. It was as if the Wild West met the future, where cowboy aesthetics collided with the eerie glow of a dystopian city.
Yet, amid the darkness, there were moments of softness. Crocheted florals, delicate frills, and handcrafted details lightened the mood, bringing warmth and a touch of nostalgia to otherwise structured looks. Wide-leg pants, bowling shirts, and minimalist varsity jackets evoked the cinematic allure of mid-century style, while ribbed-knit dresses trimmed with silver pearls provided a delicate contrast to the glossy leathers and meaty tailoring. The Meiers offered a nuanced collection that suggested, even in dark times, fashion can serve as both armour and expression.
