Ancuța Sarca’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at London Fashion Week, plunged attendees into a world where the mundane corporate grind collides with the rebellious spirit of 1960s counterculture. With the soft hum of keyboard clicks and fluorescent lights setting the tone, Sarca drew inspiration from the everyday uniform of modern city life—dark suits, monochrome tracksuits, and comfortable shoes like Crocs and Clarks Wallabees. But true to form, Sarca injected her signature juxtaposition into the collection, fusing corporate minimalism with the wild energy of animal prints and bold textures. Photography by Francesco Zinno Her designs are an imaginative blend of high-concept and wearable, with sportswear silhouettes transformed by upcycled materials like snakeskin high-heeled pumps and oversized leopard print boots—both anchored in masculine shirt collars and sportswear stripes. Sarca’s exploration of gender roles continues with menswear, featuring reworked loafers with velcro fastenings and sleek faux snakeskin detailing. The collection’s highlight was Sarca's partnerships with iconic footwear brands Crocs and Clarks. The collaboration with Clarks reimagined the classic Wallabees using deadstock shoes, marrying heritage style with sustainability in a bold new vision. Crocs, known for their quirky comfort, were deconstructed and transformed using experimental electrostatic flocking techniques, creating hybrid designs that merge practicality with avant-garde aesthetics. Ancuța Sarca’s SS25 collection was an ode to duality—everyday functionality clashed with creative rebellion, a fusion of eras that questioned and celebrated the roles we embody in modern life. Through her reimagined footwear and bold designs, Sarca once again proved her mastery at turning the expected into something thrillingly unexpected.

The runway was awash with delicate pastels—rose pinks, mint greens, and soft yellows—that evoked the blossoming of daffodils and spring’s gentle arrival. The floral jacquards, Irish linens, and silk tweeds spoke of a refined femininity, and the smocking details and ruffles added a whimsical touch to otherwise tailored silhouettes. A standout piece, a pleated silk jacquard skirt paired with a structured linen blazer, harkened back to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless 1960s style, effortlessly blending sophistication with charm. Costelloe’s mastery over these fabrics, often challenging in their own right, underscored his reputation as one of fashion's quiet masters. But it wasn’t just the pastel hues or nostalgic nods that caught the audience’s attention. The collection was steeped in modernity, seen in the inclusion of his first bridal collection—a surprising yet fitting debut for the designer who has spent over 40 years dressing some of the world's most elegant women. These wedding gowns, with their clean lines and minimalist elegance, stood out against the romantic backdrop of the rest of the collection, providing a striking contrast between tradition and the new. Costelloe also introduced a range of accessories, with Paul Costelloe Bags in soft watercolour shades adding a delicate touch to the already dreamy palette. His collaboration with architect Angela Brady brought iridescent jewellery to the runway, elevating the collection’s ethereal quality. For all its soft nostalgia, the collection also spoke to contemporary sensibilities. Striped socks paired with stilettos gave a quirky twist, hinting at Costelloe’s playful side. His debut hosiery collection, a nod to the current trend for elevated workwear, proved that even after decades in the industry, Costelloe is still in tune with the zeitgeist. His Le Ciel est Bleu collection effortlessly straddled past and present, Parisian chic and modern playfulness, making it one of the most enchanting highlights of London Fashion Week.

Image by Marie Pichonnaz Harri's Spring/Summer 2025 show at London Fashion Week was an unapologetically bold display of his signature experimental style. Known for pushing boundaries, the Indian-born designer took latex to new heights, blending inflated, balloon-like shapes with sleek, body-hugging silhouettes. The collection felt futuristic, with a dystopian twist—think apocalyptic streetwear, but make it fashion. Harri’s iconic inflated trousers returned, but this time, he added pointed shoulders and exaggerated textures, making sure no one could look away. Image by Rosella Damiani The collection’s standout feature was how Harri used latex not just as a material but as a statement. He played with the elasticity of both fabric and identity, crafting pieces that were equal parts sculpture and wearable art. The models moved in slow-motion down the runway, emphasizing the fluidity and drama of each look. There were surreal moments, like models in ballooned jumpsuits and sinister latex suits with horns, giving off a theatrical, almost alien vibe. It was a risky, boundary-pushing collection, but Harri has always thrived in that space. What truly set this collection apart, though, was Harri’s debut in womenswear. He took inspiration from Renaissance art, reimagining powerful, regal silhouettes in latex, of all things. The final looks—a series of sheer, skin-hugging pieces in deep greens and burgundy—were a masterclass in how to make latex look both sophisticated and edgy. It was an evolution for Harri, one that blended the past and future with surprising elegance, solidifying his place as one of fashion’s most fearless innovators. Photography by Alexis White

All eyes were on Consistence’s highly anticipated London debut, featuring their womenswear collection, “Useless but Fabulous.” Founded in 2015 by designer duo Tien Lu and FangFang, the brand infused their menswear expertise into a collection that seamlessly blends intricate craftsmanship with a bold, contemporary edge. Known for their imaginative take on tailoring, Consistence pushed the boundaries once again, showcasing structured suits and trench coats with horsehair canvas—a material typically used internally—boldly displayed on the outside. This unexpected twist has become a hallmark of the brand’s innovative approach. Curated by Hu Bing, China’s trailblazing male supermodel and London Fashion Week’s International Ambassador, the show was a part of a newly established recurring feature, highlighting Hu’s sharp eye for emerging talent and boundary-pushing fashion. But it wasn’t just the craftsmanship that made a statement. Consistence also spotlighted their commitment to sustainability by repurposing fabric scraps from past collections into accessories like headscarves and gloves, an approach that feels especially relevant in today’s industry. Standout pieces were crafted from Scabal’s Treasure Box materials, including luxurious 24-carat gold-infused fabric and vibrant neon wool—difficult hues to achieve but expertly handled here, cementing Consistence’s reputation as both innovative and forward-thinking.

Noon by Noor is a minimalistic womenswear brand established in 2008 by Bahraini cousins Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa, the label blends clean, modern lines with just enough Middle Eastern inspiration to give it a unique twist. Their pieces have this quiet elegance—think luxe fabrics, sharp tailoring, and subtle details that feel both effortless and powerful. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection is no different. The presentation opened with two all-white looks in linen and cotton, blending traditional tailoring with sleek, modern cuts and creating unique silhouettes. Photography by Ben Montgomery. Organza, light floral prints and ruffles spilled into the next outfits. The panelling work alongside the light shimmer delivered an intricate sensation of lightness and filled the room with the feeling of Spring.

Mark Fast is well-known for his ability to mix couture with streetwear. His Spring/Summer 2025 runway show in London was no different - a complete masterclass on making the couture look undeniably cool. The show felt like an ode to underground music, with every piece radiating an electrifying energy which could be felt across the room, it was like every piece was trying to convey a different beat or sound, while taking classic silhouettes and pushing them into unexpected bold territories. Photography by Iker Aldama Take the stone-washed denim, for example. It wasn’t your usual streetwear staple—it had an elevated edge, styled to feel both aspirational and functional. And those bandage dresses? They came in everything from muted neutrals to neon brights, balancing elegance with an undeniable attitude. One standout was the Stone Rose Crochet Dress, fringed at the hips and perfectly capturing Fast’s knack for intricate design with modern flair. But what truly defines Mark Fast is his signature knitwear. His technical precision and creative vision were on full display this season, from open-knit weaves to body-hugging, sculpted silhouettes. Fast, who studied at Central Saint Martins and completed his MA in 2008, has always pushed the boundaries of knitwear technology. He’s known for blending lycra with luxury textiles, and this collection was no exception, featuring knit pieces that felt as much like sculpture as clothing. Each piece is knitted by hand on domestic machines, forming to the body as it’s created—a process that makes his knitwear feel both sensual and experimental. This season also saw the brand playing with sportswear-inspired elements, like elastic mesh and wind-resistant layers, but in true Fast style, they were fused seamlessly with the precision and luxury of demi-couture. The mix of performance fabrics and couture techniques made the collection both bold and functional, with each piece offering a statement in its own right. The color palette ranged from black and stone grey to soft lilacs and vivid neons, capturing that rebellious, individualistic spirit that defines Fast’s work. It’s the kind of luxury-meets-sportswear chic that the brand is known for, making Fast a favorite among strong, powerful women, as well as a younger audience drawn to his embrace of youth culture. His designs have something for everyone, blending comfort with couture in a way that feels accessible yet aspirational.