Francesco Risso’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Marni was nothing short of a surrealist daydream, an ode to abstract beauty with a whisper of madness. In his ninth year at the helm, Risso has honed his craft, balancing eccentricity with restraint in a way that still feels uniquely Marni. Presented in the brand’s headquarters, the show unfolded in a labyrinth of seating amidst three grand pianos, casting an almost theatrical air of suspense. This enigmatic atmosphere was only heightened by a cryptic poem placed on each seat, setting the tone for what would be a journey into Risso’s interpretation of beauty—elusive, fleeting, and uncontainable. The collection itself was an exploration in texture and silhouette, with Risso leaning heavily into the use of cotton, a fabric he called “the purity of beauty.” Beginning with sleek, fitted knits and progressing to voluminous forms, the show oscillated between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics, a balance that felt both deliberate and spontaneous. Structured, broad-shoulder jackets over form-fitting skirts gave way to grand evening gowns adorned with blown-up roses and shredded cotton feathers, evoking a sense of blooming chaos. Risso’s signature whimsy was on full display with distorted shapes, Napoleonic hats, and artful, almost sculptural pieces—each more captivating than the last. But beneath the playful theatrics, there was an intellectual depth. Risso layered literary references into the collection, from snippets of poetry to Dante Alighieri's profile on jerseys, adding a reflective quality to the runway. The live piano score, crescendoing in harmony with the shifting looks, further amplified the sense of fluidity between fashion and art. Risso’s world is one where beauty is not merely seen, but chased—a white rabbit darting through a dark forest, forever out of reach yet ever enchanting. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni Courtesy of Marni

For Spring/Summer 2025, Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander into a cinematic exploration of darkness and light, blending rugged Americana with the dystopian chill of “Blade Runner.” Against a moody, almost melancholic backdrop, the collection felt like a reflection of the times we’re living in—a world clouded with uncertainty. Lucie Meier herself acknowledged the weight of the present, noting, “the world is a bit in a dark moment.” But far from being somber, the designs were imbued with the Meiers’ signature precision, balancing minimalism with texture and mood. The influence of Canadian photographer Greg Girard was unmistakable, with his iconic neon-lit, foggy urban streetscapes serving as the atmospheric foundation. The collection played out in Girard’s haunting palette of petrol blues and deep burgundy, as models walked in sharp, boxy coats and suits. The juxtaposition of the Meiers’ tailored silhouettes with subtle Western nods—like pointed yokes and snakeskin boots—added a rustic, yet refined edge. It was as if the Wild West met the future, where cowboy aesthetics collided with the eerie glow of a dystopian city. Yet, amid the darkness, there were moments of softness. Crocheted florals, delicate frills, and handcrafted details lightened the mood, bringing warmth and a touch of nostalgia to otherwise structured looks. Wide-leg pants, bowling shirts, and minimalist varsity jackets evoked the cinematic allure of mid-century style, while ribbed-knit dresses trimmed with silver pearls provided a delicate contrast to the glossy leathers and meaty tailoring. The Meiers offered a nuanced collection that suggested, even in dark times, fashion can serve as both armour and expression.

The MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collaboration is a lesson in fashion's delightful contradictions. This capsule collection is a heady mix of retro glamour and futuristic fantasy, perfectly encapsulating the tension between the past and the future. Quinn, known for his theatrical approach to design, brings his signature boldness, transforming MAX&Co.'s sleek aesthetic into something both visionary and wearable. At the heart of this collection is MAi—an eclectic series of crêpe de chine dresses, tailored Space Age jackets, and second-skin coordinates, all punctuated by Quinn's iconic floral patterns. The collection feels like a trip through time, pulling inspiration from French haute couture while propelling you toward a dystopian chic. The vivid colours, meticulous cuts, and unapologetically playful details invite the wearer to push boundaries, embodying an avant-garde spirit without sacrificing elegance. It's the kind of collection that invites fashion lovers to experiment—to be bold, daring, and a little rebellious, all while wrapped in the luxury of expertly crafted pieces. This is Quinn at his most sophisticated, yet with a wink of playful irreverence, turning each look into a wearable statement that celebrates individuality. In a world where fashion constantly rewrites itself, the MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collection proves that the future of style isn’t about leaving the past behind but embracing it with an innovative twist.

Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a visual feast, blending performance art with fashion in a way that felt both intimate and daring. Held at the historic Old Bailey, Rocha's runway paid homage to the work of choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, infusing the collection with a theatrical, dance-inspired energy. This season, Rocha explored the tension between perfection and imperfection, as models appeared half-dressed, showcasing unfinished garments and highlighting the construction process itself. Opening with a monochromatic palette, Rocha played with proportion and contrast—think oversized coats paired with ballerina skirts and thick-cut socks. These looks combined masculine and feminine elements, creating a sense of duality that has become central to her design ethos. The details were everything: crystal-encrusted socks, flower-adorned anoraks, and lingerie-like bralettes peeking through undone jackets. Floral motifs took centre stage in the second half of the show, as carnation-covered gowns and petal-strewn dresses cascaded down the runway. These blooms, delicate yet powerful, embodied the collection’s romanticism. New to the runway was denim, embellished with crystals and reimagined as high-fashion through corseted jackets and oversized jeans, a nod to Rocha’s stint at Jean Paul Gaultier. Rocha’s collaboration with Crocs continued to be a highlight, with platformed ballerina flats and embellished slip-ons in muted tones. Her ability to turn the pragmatic into the ornate shone through, cementing her place as a designer who consistently challenges norms. Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was not just about fashion—it was a performance, a living tableau of contradictions and contrasts. By pushing boundaries, Rocha once again redefined modern femininity, blending delicacy with rebellion in a way that feels undeniably her own.

In the age of "Brat Summer"—a cultural moment where youthful defiance and nostalgic girlhood collide—it’s no surprise that Sinead Gorey delivered a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that feels like a teenage rebellion in motion. Drawing from her own experiences and ever-sharpening eye for subcultures, Gorey took the quintessential coming-of-age moment, prom, and turned it on its head. In her hands, the prom queen is the anti-heroine, the misfit who rolls her eyes at the event’s rituals, preferring to own the afterparty in something far more subversive than tulle and tiaras. It’s prom, but from the vantage point of the outcast, the girl who skips the slow dances for something much more exciting—and far less polished. Gorey’s SS25 runway was a visual diary entry of every outsider’s dream prom. Held in a sports hall drenched in retro kitsch—think pink foil, tinsel, and cheap plastic ribbons—this wasn’t the sanitized version of prom we’re used to seeing. No, this was the grungy, post-party aesthetic, a nostalgic nod to those chaotic high school moments that teeter between innocence and rebellion. The disco ball flickered overhead, casting light over models who looked like they were on their way to the after-after party, if they had ever bothered with the main event at all. In true Gorey fashion, the SS25 collection was filled with the tension between sweetness and rebellion. The candy floss pinks and pastel hues set the stage, but it was the dark, punk-inflected details—studs, exposed hardware, and sweetheart necklines—that stole the show. Imagine the moment Georgia from Angus, Thongs and Perfect Snogging sneaks into the party in a daring dress, catching everyone off guard. That’s the Gorey girl: sweet, but not naive, rebellious but playful. Body-con mini dresses, pierced corsets, and outrageously short shorts broke every prom dress code in the book. The collection’s signature touch? Ribbon-fastened outfits dripping in diamantés, complemented by lace-up fronts that teetered on scandalous. School is out, and this girl is ready to show off her style evolution. Gone is the innocence of childhood, replaced by a new awareness of her body, her desires, and her power. Gorey spotlighted another surprise on the runway: the return of Converse, but this time reimagined. Custom versions of the XXHi, Chuck Taylor All-Star, and Chuck 70 Wedge adorned the feet of the models, each pair revamped with Gorey’s rebellious touch—think belly button bars and intricate detailing that made the iconic footwear look like the only acceptable choice for the outsider’s prom. These were not the sneakers you wear to gym class; they were the footwear of the future, where comfort and punk aesthetics collide. Adding an unexpected element, Gorey debuted her collaboration with Human Mobile Devices, unveiling the “HMD Skyline” as part of the new “Phonecore” collection. Tech meets fashion in the most practical of ways: phones tucked into spiked belts, bras, and pockets, all seamlessly integrated into the clothes. It was a Gen Z’s dream of fashion meeting functionality, perfectly capturing the moment we’re in. This wasn’t a prom of pastel chiffon and glittery tiaras. Instead, Gorey played with an eclectic mix of fabrics, pairing traditional prom materials like silk and satin with harder-edged textiles: denim, fur, and nylon bodysuits. The juxtaposition of soft, luxurious fabrics against rebellious elements like studded detailing and faux Mongolian fur was a nod to the designer’s ethos of blending innocence with defiance. A standout moment came with her reinterpretation of the faux Mongolian fur jacket. Reworked in unexpected hues of meringue, frosted ochre, and bubblegum pink, the piece was a standout, cementing Gorey’s reputation for turning the familiar into something innovative and daring. Prom might have been the initial inspiration for the collection, but it was Gorey’s fearless exploration of tech and youth culture that defined this show. From the plaid leggings and boyfriend patchwork shirts, evoking post-prom sleepover vibes, to UV-reactive leatherette sets, this collection didn’t shy away from celebrating the chaotic, messy moments of youth. The collection’s finale was a spectacular disregard for tradition: models donned exposed fly skater jeans, military-inspired micro skirts, and admiral jackets, stamping out the notion of a typical prom wardrobe. In short, Sinead Gorey’s SS25 was a celebration of the anti-prom queen—a girl who doesn’t fit into the mold, who chooses self-expression over conformity, and who, above all, knows how to break the rules in style. It’s the perfect collection for an era where individuality reigns supreme, and rebellion is just another form of self-discovery.

Crocs and Simone Rocha are at it again, and this time they've upped the ante on the runway. Unveiling their third collaborative collection, the Simone Rocha x Crocs Stomp Fisherman Sandal made its bold debut at the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025 show, read our article here . With its exaggerated silhouette and unmistakable Rocha flair, this season’s offering is a testament to how seamlessly these two brands can merge their distinct identities. As always, Rocha's romantic, feminine touch is front and centre, this time paired with the practical, chunky charm of Crocs. The Stomp Fisherman Sandal is the perfect marriage of avant-garde and everyday utility, made striking with the addition of Rocha’s signature embellishments—think pearls and crystals that catch the light and turn the once-humble sandal into a runway-worthy piece. Coming in three irresistible hues—Black, Cream, and a vibrant Hot Pink—this collection is sure to draw attention, whether on the streets or on the feet of the fashion elite. Set to drop in Spring 2025, you’ll be able to score a pair through Simone Rocha’s stores and online, Crocs’ digital storefront, and select retailers. Who would have thought that Crocs could be this chic? In the hands of Simone Rocha, they’re not just footwear—they’re a statement.