At London Fashion Week, Dimitra Petsa of Di Petsa unveiled a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that pushed the boundaries of intimacy and self-acceptance, continuing her fearless exploration of the female body and the divine feminine. With her collection titled “My Body Is a Labyrinth,” Petsa used Greek mythology as a metaphor to confront societal taboos, focusing on themes of menstruation and self-pleasure. The show’s standout motif, the Minotaur, represented the shame and guilt women often carry, with menstruation used as a symbol of that inner struggle. Models walked with fake sunburn, sand in their hair, and period stains streaking down their legs, unapologetically embodying a raw and visceral sense of femininity. Di Petsa’s signature wet-look designs were ever-present, but this season, the emphasis was on heat — dry, scorching, and deeply intimate. A powerful phrase, “shame is self-inflicted,” appeared emblazoned on a towel-inspired wrap skirt, grounding the collection’s message of liberation from societal expectations. The addition of menswear, a bold new direction for Petsa, saw body-sculpting pleated shirting and "hard-on" denim, challenging traditional notions of male sensuality. The entire experience was immersive, complete with a soundscape of cicadas and hypnotic electronica, evoking the suffocating heat of summer. As models mimicked Minotaur horns with blood-stained hands and tangled themselves in a blood-red ball of yarn, Petsa’s vision of self-discovery through pleasure came to life. Her SS25 show was not just a collection but an evocative narrative, pushing the conversation forward on the complexities of womanhood, body autonomy, and sensuality.

Bora Aksu’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, was a deeply personal tribute to his late mother, Birsen. Set in the sunlit gardens of St. Paul’s Church in Covent Garden, the show blended nostalgic elegance with heartfelt emotion, honoring her life through delicate fabrics, vintage silhouettes, and floral motifs. Aksu’s mother had been an ever-present influence throughout his career, but this collection was his most direct homage yet, a love letter stitched into every seam. Key pieces, like a hand-stitched white mini dress adorned with ostrich feathers, were salvaged from her estate, each garment carrying a personal story. Knitted twin sets and jacquard sweater vests recalled her early days as a young doctor in Turkey, while weightless silk tulle gowns reflected her nurturing side. Floral appliqués and prints inspired by the dahlias from her garden symbolized her love of nature, as she was happiest tending to her flowers, a detail woven into the collection's softer, feminine touches. The 1960s influence was evident in the belted jackets and pencil skirts, while Aksu’s signature tiered tulle appeared in ethereal, almost-Grecian folds. Models walked the runway with bouffant beehives and cat’s eye sunglasses—an homage to Birsen’s personal style. Each piece felt like a bridge between past and present, a way of preserving Aksu’s memories of his mother as they faded with time. In the end, Aksu reflected on the emotional depth of the collection, saying, “Fashion lives inside you.” With each design, he not only celebrated his mother’s life but also highlighted the profound grief of loss. This season’s collection wasn’t just an ode to his muse—it was a reminder that fashion, at its most powerful, connects us to the people and memories we hold dear.

Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 show at London Fashion Week marked a striking evolution for the brand, blending its signature spiked knitwear with a newfound elegance. Paying homage to Mai-Wah Cheung, a trailblazer in computer science and digital media, the collection explored the delicate balance between power and vulnerability. Titled “Mai’s Blossoms,” the collection reinterpreted Cheung’s professional wardrobe, introducing soft draping and fluidity to Chet Lo’s typically sharp designs, with each of the 31 looks serving as a tribute to her strength and adaptability. Opening with sheer organza dresses featuring digital “glitch” patterns—a nod to Cheung’s technology career—the collection progressed with textured knitwear in black and blue, asymmetrical skirts, and translucent knee panels. Chet Lo’s iconic spikes were reimagined in softer, more structured forms, while cloaked mini dresses and manipulated pleated trousers added an experimental edge. The finale featured fruit-shaped glass beads, an homage to Cheung’s artistic journey, symbolizing her transition from corporate life to creativity. The collection wove together Cheung’s evolution from corporate powerhouse to artist, with cobalt plaids in gauzy dresses and sleek charcoal gowns echoing the contrasts in her life. Refined woven techniques hinted at Chet Lo’s own maturation as a brand, moving towards a more demure, elegant aesthetic while still maintaining its punky, club-kid roots. These pieces signaled a desire to elevate the brand’s identity through a deeper narrative. In a touching finale, the show celebrated transformation, honoring the women who inspire. Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection wasn’t just about spiked knitwear or bold statements—it was about finding strength in softness and reflecting the emotional journey of growth and change.

BUERLANGMA’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Capsule 5, made a bold statement at London Fashion Week, weaving together elements of cultural heritage, history, and cutting-edge design. The Beijing-based fashion house, led by visionary designers Qiqi Yuan and Crystal Wang, has rapidly risen to prominence since its founding in 2020, and this season’s collection showcased their signature fusion of Eastern tradition and modern fashion innovation. The collection, split into five sub-themes—Desire, Power, Degenerate Peace, and Vold—explored themes like the historical intersection of power and fashion, notably through Rococo-inspired pieces that critiqued the influence of nobility on European style. The masks, inspired by traditional Manchu ethnic clothing, added depth to the collection, symbolizing BUERLANGMA’s commitment to honoring cultural legacies while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. BUERLANGMA’s Capsule 5 was a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. The collection was built on intricate techniques, such as Chinese origami-inspired folds, that harkened back to festival traditions. Yet it also embraced modernity with avant-garde elements that juxtaposed historical influences. The highlight of the runway came when models in oversized black coats revealed intricately designed dresses underneath, symbolizing the evolution of fashion over time. This dramatic transformation celebrated the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week while showcasing BUERLANGMA’s forward-thinking approach and ability to connect past and future through design. Collaboration was key to the success of BUERLANGMA’s SS25 collection. With contributions from artists and designers across various fields, the brand embraced a diverse range of perspectives that enriched the collection’s depth. Through these bold and multifaceted creations, BUERLANGMA reaffirmed its place as a leader in the fashion world, merging Eastern and Western influences and redefining the peaks of creativity and ambition on a global stage.

Jayne Pierson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "Annwn," made waves at London Fashion Week, and it’s no wonder. Pierson brought her signature mix of Celtic mythology and high fashion to the runway, with a collection rooted in the mystical Welsh Otherworld. The show wasn’t just about clothes—it was an immersive experience. Models walked through a set that looked straight out of a fantasy novel, complete with twisted willows, dried flowers, and a soft haze of candlelight. The clothing? A dreamy mix of gold technical chiffons, black taffetas, and leather, all of it made sustainably, of course. Pierson has always known how to work that balance between historical reference and modern fashion, and this collection was no exception. What set Pierson apart this season was her ground-breaking use of tech. She partnered with Arius Technology to do something that’s never been done before—print a Wassily Kandinsky painting onto leather. Yes, actual art on leather. It’s wearable art in the most literal sense, and the result was nothing short of breath-taking. And let’s not forget Rachel Goswell, the lead singer of Slowdive, who took to the runway in a structured cape made entirely from ocean plastic waste. With these collaborations, Pierson is proving she’s not just a designer, she’s a visionary who knows how to blend the past and the future, mythology and technology, all while keeping sustainability front and centre. But Pierson didn’t stop there. She also launched a jewellery collection, the Gwenllian line, in partnership with Devji Aurum. The pieces—crafted in 24-carat Welsh gold and adorned with diamonds and precious stones—felt like they belonged in a museum. Each item was created to be worn as an amulet, offering protection to the wearer, tying in perfectly with the magical, otherworldly theme of the show. Pierson’s SS25 collection felt less like a typical fashion presentation and more like a fully realized piece of performance art. It’s clear that Pierson is a designer who not only has something to say, but she’s also finding incredibly innovative ways to say it.

Mithridate's Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a deeply personal and visually stunning celebration of the Creative Director's hometown of Yunnan, China. Among a star-studded front row—including Tamsin Greig, Tigerlily Taylor, Jameela Jamil with James Blake, and actors Charlie Rowe, Hannah Dodd, and Therica Wilson-Read—the collection served as a tribute to Yunnan’s rich cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant ethnic diversity. This was no ordinary runway show—it was an immersive experience where local traditions met modern aesthetics in a seamless blend of art and fashion. (L) James Blake and Jameela Jamil; (M) Tamsin Greig; (R) Tigerlily Taylor (L) Therica Wilson-Read; (M) Charlie Rowe and Hannah Dodd; (R) Mecia Simpson Photo credit: Jason Lloyd Evans The collection itself was a vivid reflection of Yunnan’s community and natural beauty, with traditional techniques like the region's iconic tie-dye method reinvented with contemporary fabrics and sleek, tailored silhouettes. Ice-dyeing, symbolizing the seasonal transition from winter to spring, added depth and a connection to the natural cycles of the Yunnan landscape. The show's opening set the tone with zen-inspired music, complete with flutes and drums, as the first look—a white boxy pearl-embellished dress—floated down the runway. Sound played an unexpected and captivating role in the presentation. A pleated white floor-length dress adorned with silver bells introduced a new sensory element, as each model’s movement filled the space with the soft, melodic jingling of bells sewn into the fabric. The emotional resonance of these sounds created an atmospheric layer that heightened the collection’s tactile and visual impact. Standout pieces included floor-length designs that felt like a fusion of the past and present: a woven jacket with a long tapestry train blending modernity with tradition, a sheer gown embellished with sparkling stars, and a lacy white dress paired with a cape in matching motifs. Mithridate’s Spring 2025 collection wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a celebration of heritage, nature, and the emotional power of design.