In a season marked by powerful narratives and explorations of identity, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection stood as a testament to the intersection of fashion, history, and self-expression. Unveiled against the grand backdrop of the British Museum, the collection took its cue from Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness. With this daring inspiration, Erdem ventured beyond aesthetic elegance to pay homage to queer identity, the tension between masculine and feminine, and the transformative power of clothing.
Drawing directly from Hall’s life and work, Erdem delved into the narrative of Stephen Gordon, the novel’s protagonist, and Hall’s own exploration of gender identity. The show opened with a parade of tailored suits in navy pinstripes and tuxedo jackets, designed in collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton. The title page of The Well of Loneliness appeared as a badge of honor on the sleeve of each suit—a tribute to Hall’s bravery and the enduring legacy of her work. Alongside these sharply tailored pieces, flowing tea dresses in pale peach and mint shades embodied the push and pull between gender expression, a duality that permeated the entire collection.
The runway also reflected this tension in its beauty looks, where hairstylist Adam Garland's sharp side-parted updos and braids captured the show's masculine-feminine theme. Models with short hair donned slicked-back styles, while those with longer hair sported structured cornrows—an embodiment of strength and fluidity. Makeup artist Amy Conway leaned into genderless beauty, giving models a luminous, “boyish” complexion with brushed-up brows and natural tones that allowed imperfections to shine through. This raw, real representation complemented the collection’s theme, grounding the ethereal fabrics and intricate embellishments in something deeply human.
Erdem’s storytelling continued in the accessories, with the debut of the Bloom Bag, a sculptural piece that married hard and soft elements. The hammered metal floral handle contrasted with the supple leather body, mirroring the collection's overall interplay of strength and delicacy. As models carried the Bloom Bag close to their bodies—clutching it like a precious token of individuality—the collection whispered its message: Fashion is not just about beauty, but about breaking boundaries. Through its homage to queer history, gender fluidity, and love, Erdem’s SS25 collection offered a poignant reminder that self-expression transcends societal norms, celebrating the courage to live authentically.
