Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a striking exploration of creativity, blending innovative design with classic elegance. Known for its meticulous tailoring and bold approach, the brand captured attention with a collection that pushed boundaries while remaining true to its roots.
Set in the elegant Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel, the runway showcased a diverse range of styles that felt both contemporary and familiar. Each piece resonated with the essence of Helen Anthony, yet this season revealed a notable shift in the designer’s experimental vision, all while honouring the craftsmanship inherent to Savile Row.
Photography by Darren Brade
The show opened with an eye-catching array of sheer dresses and pearl-beaded sets, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship the brand is celebrated for. Long fringe dresses, evoking the spirit of the 1920s, were updated with a modern, laid-back rockstar vibe. Silky and metallic pieces followed suit, including a standout dress coat with striking power shoulders and a dramatic tail, as well as belted midi coats featuring the brand’s signature buckles.
Photography by Darren Brade
Naeem Anthony has a knack for reinterpreting formalwear, and this collection did not disappoint. Suits took on a vibrant twist in shades of green, cobalt blue, and bold red, with sharp dagger collars and sleek black ties adding an executive edge. A voluminous midnight blue coat offered a playful touch, while slinky trenches in an array of colours signaled a seamless transition from office to after-hours.
The collection also introduced a fun take on office wear, with boxy silhouettes—think blazers over washed pink shorts, or a cropped blazer edged in white that felt almost cartoonish. Tartan reappeared in clever adaptations, woven into playsuits, mini dresses, and impeccably tailored suits, grounding the collection in heritage while keeping it relevant.
Naeem's connection to fashion history is deeply personal, inspired by the tailoring techniques of his great-grandmother, Helen Thomas. This season’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxton Yarns, founded in 1907, added another layer of significance. Hand-knitted, multi-coloured crochet details adorned many pieces, perfectly aligning with Naeem’s commitment to sustainability—every fabric and yarn is crafted in the UK, much of it woven in Scotland.
As the final looks graced the runway, it was evident that this collection was more than just a showcase of style; it was a manifesto for the future of fashion. Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 show invited us to rethink norms, embrace fluidity, and celebrate the limitless possibilities that fashion can offer. In a world that often feels constricting, Naeem Anthony encourages us to explore, experiment, and ultimately redefine what it means to dress for ourselves.
