Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a striking exploration of creativity, blending innovative design with classic elegance. Known for its meticulous tailoring and bold approach, the brand captured attention with a collection that pushed boundaries while remaining true to its roots. Set in the elegant Kimpton Fitzroy Hotel, the runway showcased a diverse range of styles that felt both contemporary and familiar. Each piece resonated with the essence of Helen Anthony, yet this season revealed a notable shift in the designer’s experimental vision, all while honouring the craftsmanship inherent to Savile Row. Photography by Darren Brade The show opened with an eye-catching array of sheer dresses and pearl-beaded sets, highlighting the exquisite craftsmanship the brand is celebrated for. Long fringe dresses, evoking the spirit of the 1920s, were updated with a modern, laid-back rockstar vibe. Silky and metallic pieces followed suit, including a standout dress coat with striking power shoulders and a dramatic tail, as well as belted midi coats featuring the brand’s signature buckles. Photography by Darren Brade Naeem Anthony has a knack for reinterpreting formalwear, and this collection did not disappoint. Suits took on a vibrant twist in shades of green, cobalt blue, and bold red, with sharp dagger collars and sleek black ties adding an executive edge. A voluminous midnight blue coat offered a playful touch, while slinky trenches in an array of colours signaled a seamless transition from office to after-hours. The collection also introduced a fun take on office wear, with boxy silhouettes—think blazers over washed pink shorts, or a cropped blazer edged in white that felt almost cartoonish. Tartan reappeared in clever adaptations, woven into playsuits, mini dresses, and impeccably tailored suits, grounding the collection in heritage while keeping it relevant. Naeem's connection to fashion history is deeply personal, inspired by the tailoring techniques of his great-grandmother, Helen Thomas. This season’s collaboration with Yorkshire-based Laxton Yarns, founded in 1907, added another layer of significance. Hand-knitted, multi-coloured crochet details adorned many pieces, perfectly aligning with Naeem’s commitment to sustainability—every fabric and yarn is crafted in the UK, much of it woven in Scotland. As the final looks graced the runway, it was evident that this collection was more than just a showcase of style; it was a manifesto for the future of fashion. Helen Anthony’s Spring/Summer 2025 show invited us to rethink norms, embrace fluidity, and celebrate the limitless possibilities that fashion can offer. In a world that often feels constricting, Naeem Anthony encourages us to explore, experiment, and ultimately redefine what it means to dress for ourselves.

London Fashion Week has come to a close, but the echoes of creativity and inspiration continue to reverberate in our minds. This season, we witnessed an array of transformative shows that not only showcased the latest in luxury fashion but also ignited conversations around identity, sustainability, and self-expression. As we reflect on these remarkable presentations, here are the standout shows we hope to see again. Di Petsa Di Petsa's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "My Body Is a Labyrinth," offered a poignant exploration of deeply personal themes surrounding menstruation and self-pleasure, all through the rich tapestry of Greek mythology. With models adorned in sunburnt skin and period stains, the visceral imagery challenged societal taboos, emphasizing body autonomy and liberation. The introduction of bold menswear was a brilliant nod to inclusivity, making this collection not just a show but a movement toward self-acceptance. Check our full coverage here . Mithridate Mithridate’s presentation captivated attendees with its homage to the designer's Yunnan roots. The collection fused traditional techniques like tie-dye with modern silhouettes, showcasing a pearl-embellished dress and a woven jacket that brought sound into the fashion experience. The vibrant aesthetic, coupled with the presence of celebrities such as Jameela Jamil, made this show a beautiful celebration of heritage, nature, and innovation. Check our full coverage here . Paul Costelloe Paul Costelloe's "Le Ciel est Bleu" transported us to a sun-drenched Parisian boulevard. His collection, rich in pastel hues and floral jacquards, exuded romance and nostalgia. The debut bridal line showcased minimalist gowns that contrasted elegantly with playful accessories, reflecting Costelloe's keen eye for balancing classic elegance with contemporary trends. The charming details, like striped socks with stilettos, made this collection a true standout. Check our full coverage here . Simone Rocha Set against the dramatic backdrop of the Old Bailey, Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection blended femininity with bold, deconstructed designs. The use of unfinished garments and crystal embellishments created a narrative that redefined modern femininity. Collaborations with Crocs introduced a playful element, while references to renowned choreographers elevated the collection to a performance art piece, captivating all who witnessed it. Check our full coverage here . Sinead Gorey Sinead Gorey reimagined prom through the eyes of a rebellious anti-heroine. Her collection, with candy-colored body-cons and punk-inspired elements like pierced corsets, captured the essence of youthful defiance. The playful integration of technology into fashion showcased a forward-thinking approach, celebrating the nonconformity of the modern girl while embracing a blend of innocence and edge. Check our full coverage here . Erdem Erdem’s collection, inspired by Radclyffe Hall’s groundbreaking novel The Well of Loneliness , explored gender fluidity and queer self-expression. With a stunning mix of tailored suits and ethereal dresses, the collection harmoniously juxtaposed masculine and feminine aesthetics. The introduction of the Bloom Bag symbolized a celebration of individuality, resonating deeply with those who dare to defy societal norms. Check our full coverage here . Helen Anthony Set in the opulent Kimpton Fitzroy hotel, Helen Anthony’s show blended avant-garde design with traditional tailoring. The diverse range of styles showcased a commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. This collection exemplified how modern fashion can both honour heritage and challenge conventions. Check our full coverage here . Yaku Yaku’s debut collection, "The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space," intricately wove Afrofuturism with personal history. Each of the four distinct tableaus—The Library, Reflection, Combat, and The Forest—told a story rich in identity and resilience. The innovative use of sustainable fabrics and the introduction of womenswear showcased Yaku's commitment to both fantasy and wearability, making this presentation a deeply emotional experience. Check our full coverage here .

Stepping into Apujan’s Spring/Summer 2025 show was like tumbling down a rabbit hole—and loving every minute of it. Imagine sipping from an Alice in Wonderland teacup, where suddenly everything feels distorted, playful, and ever so slightly off-kilter. Objects that should be small appear enormous, and those that seem ordinary are now teetering between worlds. Apu Jan, known for weaving literature—especially fantasy—into his designs, takes us on another whimsical journey this season, aptly titled “Mirror, Keys and Drink Me.” The Alice reference is impossible to miss, but this time, it’s not just a nod to Wonderland; it's a commentary on our modern lives, where reality and virtual reality blur, and we’re left questioning the size and space of both objects and ourselves. Every look on the runway felt like a magician pulling a new surprise from their hat—archetypes appeared one after another: a student, chess pieces, clowns, a mad hatter, even a rabbit. Yet none of it veered into costume territory. Instead, Apujan’s brilliance lies in his ability to take these symbols of fantasy and elevate them into high fashion, each piece telling its own story while contributing to the larger narrative. Supersized accessories were everywhere—think giant yarn, an oversized pencil, enormous playing cards, and chess pieces repurposed as helmets. The drama and theatre infused into every detail struck the perfect balance, keeping the collection playful but not gimmicky. Among the standout pieces: an opening look that set the tone—a black-and-white checkered pirate hat adorned with chess pieces, paired with a dress in the same motif, but in unexpected shades of light and dark green. Then came a full electric-blue ensemble—a chunky knit top with an asymmetric fit, paired with low-rise, wide-leg trousers—that felt both modern and completely in tune with the show’s larger-than-life fantasy. Apujan closed out London Fashion Week with this theatrical, deeply imaginative collection. If this is the finale, we can’t wait to see what comes next. Take a closer look at the rest of the collection below.

At Fendi's Spring/Summer 2025 show, Kim Jones honoured the house’s rich legacy while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. Opening Milan Fashion Week, the collection was a tribute to Fendi’s century-long journey, with Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi celebrating the four generations of women who have shaped the brand. A heartfelt conversation between Silvia and her mother, Anna, played over the sound system, setting the tone for a show rooted in tradition but reimagined for the present — a perfect reflection of the balance between family and fashion. The collection captured the spirit of the 1920s, the decade in which Adele Fendi founded the house, with nods to Jazz Age silhouettes and Art Deco motifs. Yet, Jones took these historical references and modernized them for today’s woman. Gauzy, drop-waist dresses with pearl-edged botanical reliefs blended seamlessly with sleek sportswear-inspired details, creating a thoughtful juxtaposition between vintage elegance and contemporary cool. The accessories and footwear, led by Silvia Venturini Fendi, echoed this duality. The collection’s collaboration with heritage bootmaker Red Wing was an unexpected but brilliant contrast to the otherwise delicate looks. The rugged moccasin boots, paired with ruffled socks and feminine floral tea dresses, encapsulated the idea of the practical yet liberated woman — a nod to the essence of Fendi’s female-driven history. This was a collection that celebrated not only Fendi’s past but also its future, always with women at its heart.

Francesco Risso’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Marni was nothing short of a surrealist daydream, an ode to abstract beauty with a whisper of madness. In his ninth year at the helm, Risso has honed his craft, balancing eccentricity with restraint in a way that still feels uniquely Marni. Presented in the brand’s headquarters, the show unfolded in a labyrinth of seating amidst three grand pianos, casting an almost theatrical air of suspense. This enigmatic atmosphere was only heightened by a cryptic poem placed on each seat, setting the tone for what would be a journey into Risso’s interpretation of beauty—elusive, fleeting, and uncontainable. The collection itself was an exploration in texture and silhouette, with Risso leaning heavily into the use of cotton, a fabric he called “the purity of beauty.” Beginning with sleek, fitted knits and progressing to voluminous forms, the show oscillated between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics, a balance that felt both deliberate and spontaneous. Structured, broad-shoulder jackets over form-fitting skirts gave way to grand evening gowns adorned with blown-up roses and shredded cotton feathers, evoking a sense of blooming chaos. Risso’s signature whimsy was on full display with distorted shapes, Napoleonic hats, and artful, almost sculptural pieces—each more captivating than the last. But beneath the playful theatrics, there was an intellectual depth. Risso layered literary references into the collection, from snippets of poetry to Dante Alighieri's profile on jerseys, adding a reflective quality to the runway. The live piano score, crescendoing in harmony with the shifting looks, further amplified the sense of fluidity between fashion and art. Risso’s world is one where beauty is not merely seen, but chased—a white rabbit darting through a dark forest, forever out of reach yet ever enchanting. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni Courtesy of Marni

For Spring/Summer 2025, Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander into a cinematic exploration of darkness and light, blending rugged Americana with the dystopian chill of “Blade Runner.” Against a moody, almost melancholic backdrop, the collection felt like a reflection of the times we’re living in—a world clouded with uncertainty. Lucie Meier herself acknowledged the weight of the present, noting, “the world is a bit in a dark moment.” But far from being somber, the designs were imbued with the Meiers’ signature precision, balancing minimalism with texture and mood. The influence of Canadian photographer Greg Girard was unmistakable, with his iconic neon-lit, foggy urban streetscapes serving as the atmospheric foundation. The collection played out in Girard’s haunting palette of petrol blues and deep burgundy, as models walked in sharp, boxy coats and suits. The juxtaposition of the Meiers’ tailored silhouettes with subtle Western nods—like pointed yokes and snakeskin boots—added a rustic, yet refined edge. It was as if the Wild West met the future, where cowboy aesthetics collided with the eerie glow of a dystopian city. Yet, amid the darkness, there were moments of softness. Crocheted florals, delicate frills, and handcrafted details lightened the mood, bringing warmth and a touch of nostalgia to otherwise structured looks. Wide-leg pants, bowling shirts, and minimalist varsity jackets evoked the cinematic allure of mid-century style, while ribbed-knit dresses trimmed with silver pearls provided a delicate contrast to the glossy leathers and meaty tailoring. The Meiers offered a nuanced collection that suggested, even in dark times, fashion can serve as both armour and expression.