At the end of December, the fashion world buzzed with a mix of nostalgia and anticipation as John Galliano announced his departure from Maison Margiela after an impactful ten years as creative director. Taking to Instagram, the legendary designer penned a heartfelt post that hinted at dreams yet to come, while expressing gratitude for a decade spent redefining one of fashion’s most enigmatic houses.
Galliano’s time at Margiela was nothing short of transformative. Appointed in 2014, he was tasked with balancing the Maison’s legacy of anonymity and avant-garde minimalism with his own penchant for drama, theatricality, and boundary-pushing storytelling. It was a pairing that, on paper, seemed unlikely. In practice, it resulted in some of the most memorable moments in contemporary fashion history.
From the beginning, Galliano’s tenure at Margiela was about reinvention. He approached the brand’s artisanal collections—its answer to couture—as an opportunity to showcase his unparalleled ability to blend craftsmanship with narrative. Who can forget his Fall 2015 debut, where models strode down the runway adorned with fragmented mirrors, turning the act of wearing fashion into a meditation on identity and perception? It was a signal of things to come: collections that not only dressed the body but also engaged the mind.
Galliano’s vision extended beyond clothing. His collaborations with makeup artist Pat McGrath resulted in iconic beauty moments that became as integral to the shows as the garments themselves. Glass-like skin that made models resemble porcelain dolls, exaggerated silhouettes that blurred the lines between human and sculpture, and runway performances that felt more like avant-garde theatre—Galliano made the Margiela runway a space for magic.
Highlights of a Decade
Spring 2015 Couture
Galliano’s debut couture collection for Margiela was an experimental exploration of deconstruction and reconstruction. It featured dramatic silhouettes, unexpected materials, and a sense of rebellion against traditional couture norms, setting the tone for his transformative tenure at the Maison.
Spring 2018 Couture
A bold exploration of deconstruction, featuring garments that appeared mid-transformation—half-tailored suits, exposed inner workings, and layers of transparent tulle. It was Galliano at his most conceptual, taking the Maison’s ethos of unfinished beauty to new heights.
Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear
A collection inspired by upcycling and sustainability, long before it became an industry buzzword. Galliano turned discarded materials into high fashion, blending elegance with a message of responsibility.
Leon Dame’s Viral Walk for Spring 2020
Galliano’s ability to create unforgettable moments extended to casting and direction. Model Leon Dame’s exaggerated, almost militaristic strut down the runway became an instant internet sensation, embodying the rebellious spirit of the collection and showcasing Galliano’s talent for blending performance art with fashion.
Spring 2024 Couture
Galliano’s final collection for Margiela was a love letter to the golden age of fashion. Set under Paris’s Pont Alexandre III, the show featured 19th-century-inspired characters, live cabaret performances, and Gwendoline Christie in a latex corset. The models’ luminous, otherworldly skin cemented it as an era-defining moment. Looking back, it felt like Galliano’s swan song—a grand finale to a decade of storytelling.
Rihanna’s 2018 Met Gala Look
One of Galliano’s most memorable creations for Margiela was Rihanna’s papal-inspired ensemble for the "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination" Met Gala. The intricately beaded mitre and matching robe showcased Galliano’s mastery of blending cultural references with high fashion, making it one of the most talked-about looks of the evening.
Spring/Summer 2017 Artisanal
This artisanal collection relied heavily on deconstruction, with the first few all-black looks showcasing trench coats, hats, and dresses with panels cut away and inner linings exposed. While this is a Margiela signature, as the collection continued Galliano layered in his romantic narrative with tulle, chiffon, and lace—one of the most memorable looks being a silhouette of a woman’s face constructed from billowing tulle on the side of a white coat, which trailed behind the model as she walked.
Zendaya in Custom Couture at the 2024 Met Gala
Galliano’s flair for creating red carpet magic was on full display when Zendaya wore a custom Maison Margiela gown to the 2024 Met Gala. The look, inspired by celestial themes, featured a shimmering, layered tulle dress with intricate beading that captured the evening’s "Time and Space" theme. It was a testament to Galliano’s ability to merge fantasy with elegance, making it a standout moment in his final year at Margiela.
