Stepping into Apujan’s Spring/Summer 2025 show was like tumbling down a rabbit hole—and loving every minute of it. Imagine sipping from an Alice in Wonderland teacup, where suddenly everything feels distorted, playful, and ever so slightly off-kilter. Objects that should be small appear enormous, and those that seem ordinary are now teetering between worlds. Apu Jan, known for weaving literature—especially fantasy—into his designs, takes us on another whimsical journey this season, aptly titled “Mirror, Keys and Drink Me.” The Alice reference is impossible to miss, but this time, it’s not just a nod to Wonderland; it's a commentary on our modern lives, where reality and virtual reality blur, and we’re left questioning the size and space of both objects and ourselves. Every look on the runway felt like a magician pulling a new surprise from their hat—archetypes appeared one after another: a student, chess pieces, clowns, a mad hatter, even a rabbit. Yet none of it veered into costume territory. Instead, Apujan’s brilliance lies in his ability to take these symbols of fantasy and elevate them into high fashion, each piece telling its own story while contributing to the larger narrative. Supersized accessories were everywhere—think giant yarn, an oversized pencil, enormous playing cards, and chess pieces repurposed as helmets. The drama and theatre infused into every detail struck the perfect balance, keeping the collection playful but not gimmicky. Among the standout pieces: an opening look that set the tone—a black-and-white checkered pirate hat adorned with chess pieces, paired with a dress in the same motif, but in unexpected shades of light and dark green. Then came a full electric-blue ensemble—a chunky knit top with an asymmetric fit, paired with low-rise, wide-leg trousers—that felt both modern and completely in tune with the show’s larger-than-life fantasy. Apujan closed out London Fashion Week with this theatrical, deeply imaginative collection. If this is the finale, we can’t wait to see what comes next. Take a closer look at the rest of the collection below.

At Fendi's Spring/Summer 2025 show, Kim Jones honoured the house’s rich legacy while pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. Opening Milan Fashion Week, the collection was a tribute to Fendi’s century-long journey, with Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi celebrating the four generations of women who have shaped the brand. A heartfelt conversation between Silvia and her mother, Anna, played over the sound system, setting the tone for a show rooted in tradition but reimagined for the present — a perfect reflection of the balance between family and fashion. The collection captured the spirit of the 1920s, the decade in which Adele Fendi founded the house, with nods to Jazz Age silhouettes and Art Deco motifs. Yet, Jones took these historical references and modernized them for today’s woman. Gauzy, drop-waist dresses with pearl-edged botanical reliefs blended seamlessly with sleek sportswear-inspired details, creating a thoughtful juxtaposition between vintage elegance and contemporary cool. The accessories and footwear, led by Silvia Venturini Fendi, echoed this duality. The collection’s collaboration with heritage bootmaker Red Wing was an unexpected but brilliant contrast to the otherwise delicate looks. The rugged moccasin boots, paired with ruffled socks and feminine floral tea dresses, encapsulated the idea of the practical yet liberated woman — a nod to the essence of Fendi’s female-driven history. This was a collection that celebrated not only Fendi’s past but also its future, always with women at its heart.

Francesco Risso’s latest Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Marni was nothing short of a surrealist daydream, an ode to abstract beauty with a whisper of madness. In his ninth year at the helm, Risso has honed his craft, balancing eccentricity with restraint in a way that still feels uniquely Marni. Presented in the brand’s headquarters, the show unfolded in a labyrinth of seating amidst three grand pianos, casting an almost theatrical air of suspense. This enigmatic atmosphere was only heightened by a cryptic poem placed on each seat, setting the tone for what would be a journey into Risso’s interpretation of beauty—elusive, fleeting, and uncontainable. The collection itself was an exploration in texture and silhouette, with Risso leaning heavily into the use of cotton, a fabric he called “the purity of beauty.” Beginning with sleek, fitted knits and progressing to voluminous forms, the show oscillated between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics, a balance that felt both deliberate and spontaneous. Structured, broad-shoulder jackets over form-fitting skirts gave way to grand evening gowns adorned with blown-up roses and shredded cotton feathers, evoking a sense of blooming chaos. Risso’s signature whimsy was on full display with distorted shapes, Napoleonic hats, and artful, almost sculptural pieces—each more captivating than the last. But beneath the playful theatrics, there was an intellectual depth. Risso layered literary references into the collection, from snippets of poetry to Dante Alighieri's profile on jerseys, adding a reflective quality to the runway. The live piano score, crescendoing in harmony with the shifting looks, further amplified the sense of fluidity between fashion and art. Risso’s world is one where beauty is not merely seen, but chased—a white rabbit darting through a dark forest, forever out of reach yet ever enchanting. Photography: Giovanni Giannoni Courtesy of Marni

For Spring/Summer 2025, Luke and Lucie Meier took Jil Sander into a cinematic exploration of darkness and light, blending rugged Americana with the dystopian chill of “Blade Runner.” Against a moody, almost melancholic backdrop, the collection felt like a reflection of the times we’re living in—a world clouded with uncertainty. Lucie Meier herself acknowledged the weight of the present, noting, “the world is a bit in a dark moment.” But far from being somber, the designs were imbued with the Meiers’ signature precision, balancing minimalism with texture and mood. The influence of Canadian photographer Greg Girard was unmistakable, with his iconic neon-lit, foggy urban streetscapes serving as the atmospheric foundation. The collection played out in Girard’s haunting palette of petrol blues and deep burgundy, as models walked in sharp, boxy coats and suits. The juxtaposition of the Meiers’ tailored silhouettes with subtle Western nods—like pointed yokes and snakeskin boots—added a rustic, yet refined edge. It was as if the Wild West met the future, where cowboy aesthetics collided with the eerie glow of a dystopian city. Yet, amid the darkness, there were moments of softness. Crocheted florals, delicate frills, and handcrafted details lightened the mood, bringing warmth and a touch of nostalgia to otherwise structured looks. Wide-leg pants, bowling shirts, and minimalist varsity jackets evoked the cinematic allure of mid-century style, while ribbed-knit dresses trimmed with silver pearls provided a delicate contrast to the glossy leathers and meaty tailoring. The Meiers offered a nuanced collection that suggested, even in dark times, fashion can serve as both armour and expression.

The MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collaboration is a lesson in fashion's delightful contradictions. This capsule collection is a heady mix of retro glamour and futuristic fantasy, perfectly encapsulating the tension between the past and the future. Quinn, known for his theatrical approach to design, brings his signature boldness, transforming MAX&Co.'s sleek aesthetic into something both visionary and wearable. At the heart of this collection is MAi—an eclectic series of crêpe de chine dresses, tailored Space Age jackets, and second-skin coordinates, all punctuated by Quinn's iconic floral patterns. The collection feels like a trip through time, pulling inspiration from French haute couture while propelling you toward a dystopian chic. The vivid colours, meticulous cuts, and unapologetically playful details invite the wearer to push boundaries, embodying an avant-garde spirit without sacrificing elegance. It's the kind of collection that invites fashion lovers to experiment—to be bold, daring, and a little rebellious, all while wrapped in the luxury of expertly crafted pieces. This is Quinn at his most sophisticated, yet with a wink of playful irreverence, turning each look into a wearable statement that celebrates individuality. In a world where fashion constantly rewrites itself, the MAX&Co. x Richard Quinn collection proves that the future of style isn’t about leaving the past behind but embracing it with an innovative twist.

Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a visual feast, blending performance art with fashion in a way that felt both intimate and daring. Held at the historic Old Bailey, Rocha's runway paid homage to the work of choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, infusing the collection with a theatrical, dance-inspired energy. This season, Rocha explored the tension between perfection and imperfection, as models appeared half-dressed, showcasing unfinished garments and highlighting the construction process itself. Opening with a monochromatic palette, Rocha played with proportion and contrast—think oversized coats paired with ballerina skirts and thick-cut socks. These looks combined masculine and feminine elements, creating a sense of duality that has become central to her design ethos. The details were everything: crystal-encrusted socks, flower-adorned anoraks, and lingerie-like bralettes peeking through undone jackets. Floral motifs took centre stage in the second half of the show, as carnation-covered gowns and petal-strewn dresses cascaded down the runway. These blooms, delicate yet powerful, embodied the collection’s romanticism. New to the runway was denim, embellished with crystals and reimagined as high-fashion through corseted jackets and oversized jeans, a nod to Rocha’s stint at Jean Paul Gaultier. Rocha’s collaboration with Crocs continued to be a highlight, with platformed ballerina flats and embellished slip-ons in muted tones. Her ability to turn the pragmatic into the ornate shone through, cementing her place as a designer who consistently challenges norms. Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was not just about fashion—it was a performance, a living tableau of contradictions and contrasts. By pushing boundaries, Rocha once again redefined modern femininity, blending delicacy with rebellion in a way that feels undeniably her own.