In a season marked by powerful narratives and explorations of identity, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection stood as a testament to the intersection of fashion, history, and self-expression. Unveiled against the grand backdrop of the British Museum, the collection took its cue from Radclyffe Hall’s 1928 novel The Well of Loneliness . With this daring inspiration, Erdem ventured beyond aesthetic elegance to pay homage to queer identity, the tension between masculine and feminine, and the transformative power of clothing. Drawing directly from Hall’s life and work, Erdem delved into the narrative of Stephen Gordon, the novel’s protagonist, and Hall’s own exploration of gender identity. The show opened with a parade of tailored suits in navy pinstripes and tuxedo jackets, designed in collaboration with Savile Row’s Edward Sexton. The title page of The Well of Loneliness appeared as a badge of honor on the sleeve of each suit—a tribute to Hall’s bravery and the enduring legacy of her work. Alongside these sharply tailored pieces, flowing tea dresses in pale peach and mint shades embodied the push and pull between gender expression, a duality that permeated the entire collection. The runway also reflected this tension in its beauty looks, where hairstylist Adam Garland's sharp side-parted updos and braids captured the show's masculine-feminine theme. Models with short hair donned slicked-back styles, while those with longer hair sported structured cornrows—an embodiment of strength and fluidity. Makeup artist Amy Conway leaned into genderless beauty, giving models a luminous, “boyish” complexion with brushed-up brows and natural tones that allowed imperfections to shine through. This raw, real representation complemented the collection’s theme, grounding the ethereal fabrics and intricate embellishments in something deeply human. Erdem’s storytelling continued in the accessories, with the debut of the Bloom Bag, a sculptural piece that married hard and soft elements. The hammered metal floral handle contrasted with the supple leather body, mirroring the collection's overall interplay of strength and delicacy. As models carried the Bloom Bag close to their bodies—clutching it like a precious token of individuality—the collection whispered its message: Fashion is not just about beauty, but about breaking boundaries. Through its homage to queer history, gender fluidity, and love, Erdem’s SS25 collection offered a poignant reminder that self-expression transcends societal norms, celebrating the courage to live authentically.

Roksanda’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a poetic reflection on the delicate balance between nature and modernity. Inspired by the work of Hungarian artist Agnes Denes, particularly her 1982 installation Wheatfield – A Confrontation , the collection explored the tension between organic beauty and the encroaching industrial world. The runway was a vision of earthy tones, with neutral tailoring, raffia-fringed dresses, and sculptural details that spoke to both Denes’ symbolic wheatfields and Roksanda’s own Serbian roots. The designer’s cultural heritage added depth to the narrative, where wheat holds a powerful place in Eastern European folklore and identity. Set against the brutalist backdrop of London’s Space House, the collection felt like a conversation between the natural world and urban life. Clean, architectural lines in tailored jackets and coats were softened by flowing taffeta gowns in shades of mint, aubergine, and melon, evoking a sense of romanticism amidst the starkness. With bold fringe and textural contrasts, Roksanda seamlessly fused structure with fluidity, offering a thoughtful, visually compelling meditation on the beauty of resilience in both nature and design.

Marco Capaldo’s 16Arlington stunned on the third day of London Fashion Week, unveiling a collection that signaled a significant shift in tone. The brand, which had explored darker, more melancholic aesthetics in recent seasons, stepped into a new dawn for Spring/Summer 2025. Set inside the ethereal halls of the Royal Academy of Arts, Capaldo presented a collection inspired by a renewed sense of lightness, fittingly titled “The Heat.” Accompanied by the scent of blooming mimosa from Diptyque and biodegradable confetti underfoot, the mood was young, wild, and undeniably free. The collection opened with radiant shades of yellow drenching tailored trench coats, pencil skirts, and dresses with contrasting collars. There was an effortless edge to the leather moto uniforms, revealing metallic bras, while snakeskin handbags added an animalistic energy. But 16Arlington didn’t stop there—sumptuous fur coats paired with hot pants, and fringe frocks swung with bold sensuality. Feathers, a brand signature, were reimagined in gradient hues, bursting from beaded and sequined eveningwear. The collection, though vibrant and playful, carried an undercurrent of complexity. Drawing inspiration from Pedro Almodóvar’s The Skin I Live In , Capaldo’s use of colour and mood channelled the film’s haunting beauty, melding darkness and sensuality. From the waxed raffia techniques to the exquisite craftsmanship of hand-crocheted beads, 16Arlington’s SS25 line-up reflected Capaldo’s vision of a woman illuminated by the most magical light—at dusk, at dawn, always confident in her skin.

Audemars Piguet has unveiled the latest addition to its prestigious Royal Oak Concept collection, introducing a high-tech marvel: the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. This 43 mm timepiece is a stunning showcase of both innovation and craftsmanship, featuring a ground-breaking material that reshapes luxury watchmaking. At the heart of the new design is the brand's patented Chroma Forged Technology (CFT), which has given birth to a striking black forged carbon case middle infused with blue luminescent pigments. Developed in Audemars Piguet’s R&D workshops over five years, this lightweight, non-porous carbon is resistant to humidity, heat, and shocks. Complemented by a sleek black ceramic bezel and push-pieces, the watch embodies both elegance and cutting-edge engineering. Beneath its electric blue accents and dark architectural dial lies the powerful Calibre 4407, a self-winding movement designed for precision and ease of use. This movement combines advanced functions like the flyback chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, GMT, and large date display—all in one. Presented at an exclusive event in Singapore, the watch’s debut attracted global attention, making it a must-have piece for collectors. The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date is priced at $206,800 USD, solidifying its place as a future icon in haute horlogerie.

If you could hand out awards for the most atmospheric venue of London Fashion Week, KNWLS would certainly be a top contender. Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault took over the old Central Saint Martins building in Holborn—untouched since 2011—for their Spring/Summer 2025 show, and the decaying grandeur set the perfect stage. As krautrock and Swedish grunge echoed through the halls, it felt like the ghosts of fashion past were coming alive. This season, KNWLS leaned into an unexpected sense of elegance—think corsetry, reimagined terry tracksuits, and bias-cut slip dresses, all with their signature edge. But it wasn’t all grit; the collection expanded into the eveningwear arena with references to couture icons like Balenciaga and Madame Grès, blending history with a future-facing, sensual twist. The finale? A lingerie-inspired wedding dress, boned by Knowles herself, made for the bride of 2025. A collaboration with Stephen Jones on leather helmet-like fascinators added another layer of sophistication, signalling that the KNWLS girl is all grown up. And they’re not stopping here—next stop, Shanghai Fashion Week.

As the sun set on one of the busiest days of London Fashion Week, stepping into Tolu Coker's runway show felt like returning to a cherished home. The venue, adorned with vibrant ’70s graphics and framed photographs of proud Black women, created a captivating atmosphere reminiscent of a nostalgic family gathering. Mid-century furniture lined the runway, with teak sofas, a lavish dinner table, and hand-carved busts transforming the space into a celebration of heritage and community. Coker’s intention was clear: to honor her mother, Olapeju Coker, and explore the significance of living rooms as cultural gathering spaces for immigrant communities. In her collection, titled "Olapeju," Coker skillfully wove together personal history and broader narratives of immigration. Drawing inspiration from her childhood home in North Kensington, the pieces echoed the vibrant style of the late '60s and early '70s, marked by sharp tailoring and playful silhouettes. Leather Harringtons, oversized denim, and swinging halternecks evoked a sense of joyous nostalgia, while the craftsmanship reflected a commitment to sustainability. Coker's designs not only showcased her technical prowess but also celebrated the beauty and resilience of the communities that shaped her upbringing. The show culminated in a spirited finale led by British supermodel Jourdan Dunn, where models danced down the runway, embodying Coker's vision of luxury as an accessible celebration of craft and culture. “Joy was also a means of resistance,” Coker explained, emphasizing her desire to reshape narratives around Black experiences. This was more than just a fashion show; it was a vibrant testament to community, heritage, and the uplifting power of storytelling through design. In a world often overshadowed by elitism, Coker’s collection reminded us that fashion can indeed be a joyful, inclusive celebration.