The Jordan Luca AW 24 is ”about hope and the joy of coming together,” Bowen said backstage about the show. With a balloon tied to each chair and balloons placed around the entrance, one would assume the duo are in a mood for a celebration. But as they share, the balloons were intended as a bittersweet metaphor as well, reminding us that hope is fragile. The spiky details scattered through the collection and on accessories playfully reminded us of this duality throughout the show. It gave a more grown-up attitude to the punk aesthetic the label went for, with heavy tailored coats and blazers. A tone of power dressing and sleek sartorial options dominated the show, and elevated the collection.

During Milan Fashion Week on Saturday evening, Emporio Armani unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection in a dark, imaginary lighthouse. Set to Loredana Berte’s “Il Mare D’inverno (Winter Sea),” the renowned menswear designer showcased new styles on a slate-gray runway inspired by the sea. The collection reflected Mr. Armani’s love for the ocean, featuring sharp formalwear, precise tailoring, and a neutral colour palette. The initial outfits had a nautical vibe, with navy sailor hats complementing buttoned overcoats and zip-up jackets featuring silk cut-outs on the shoulders. Black leather gloves and sturdy boots paired well with striped sweaters and scarves, while navy and off-white wool outerwear provided warmth against the sea breeze. Transitioning to browns and beiges, Armani's expert tailoring took centre stage. Blazers and trenches were popular choices, often paired with flowing trousers cinched at the ankles. Shirts with minimal, asymmetrical buttons and monotone turtlenecks served as base layers, while knee-high brown leather boots completed the look. The collection then embraced skiwear, with models temporarily swapping leather accessories for skis, snowboards, helmets, and goggles. Snow white down parkas, puffers, and puffer vests gleamed, while knitwear in the same tone featured in dresses, sweaters, and skirts. Armani's slopes-ready interludes showcased his versatility. Maintaining the maritime theme, grey formal coats were adorned with sparkling shells and barnacles. Shimmering navy jackets, vests, and tops took the spotlight over black trousers, with loosely wrapped ties around bare necks. The designer concluded with a display of crystal-covered eveningwear, adding a tasteful feminine touch to traditional men’s suiting separates.

Continuing its innovative trajectory, POST ARCHIVE FACTION (PAF) has unveiled its much-anticipated "7.0" collection for Fall/Winter 2024. This season, the standout South Korean label delves into the theme of "POST-MORPHOSIS," exploring dramatic transformations in form, function, and material reminiscent of an organism’s developmental metamorphosis. The collection's elements interweave, bifurcate, and convert, embodying the progressive evolution of garments. A highlight of the "7.0" collection is the 7.0 JACKET CENTER, characterized by its asymmetrical design and three-dimensional pockets. This piece captures the essence of nature's unpredictable organic forms, a theme continued with the 7.0 JACKET LEFT, which features a utilitarian design enhanced by hidden interior pockets within the visible ones, accented by vibrant color contrasts. The 7.0 COAT CENTER reinterprets the classic Korean duffle coat, embodying a moment in the transformative journey between deconstruction and reconstruction. This piece stands as a testament to PAF's ability to blend tradition with contemporary innovation. Meanwhile, the 7.0 TECHNICAL PANTS LEFT showcases an organic spiral elevation design, with exaggerated three-dimensional pleats that converge into a cutout, highlighting the contrast between patterns. PAF's "7.0" collection is a masterful blend of avant-garde aesthetics and functional design, pushing the boundaries of fashion while staying rooted in a deep understanding of form and material. This release not only showcases the label's commitment to evolution but also cements its place at the forefront of contemporary fashion.

"I love Pitti Uomo because it feels like an extension of Savile Row," British designer Steven Stokey-Daley confided backstage at his Fall/Winter 2024 runway show during the biannual menswear event. "Where Savile Row is maybe not so alive now, it feels like it’s more alive here. It’s a lovely cyclical thing." In both arenas, bespoke tailored suiting reigns supreme, and Daley's Florentine display masterfully blended the age-old practices of these iconic regions. Set amidst the Mannerist masterpieces inside the historic Salone dei Cinquecento of Palazzo Vecchio, Daley's models navigated columns stuffed with pillows, a nod to the cramped living quarters of Oxford University students from decades past. "I wanted to transform the set into this abstracted version of a dorm room," Daley explained. His imaginative execution allowed the fashion to remain the focal point, with the academic ensembles poised to fit seamlessly into his conceptual residence hall’s closets. Central to Daley's inspiration was E.M. Forster's 1911 novella The Story of a Panic . "It’s about a British boy who comes to Italy for the first time and has his cardinal awakening," Daley shared. Reflecting the novella’s setting in a remote fishing village, far from the constraints of British institutions, the collection featured lighter, more liberated garments. A standout motif was an enlarged fish, appearing in blue on a white button-down shirt, while a yellow fishing coat catered to utilitarian tastes. "Florence deeply informed the collection, which is why you see such incredible tapestries," Daley noted. His love for intarsia was evident, with Rowan yarn blankets transformed into oversized rugby shirts adorned with classic British imagery, including horse-riding hunters and wildflowers. This fusion of Italian and British design elements encapsulated the collection's identity. Daley also paid homage to Britain’s sartorial heritage with a playful cardigan featuring illustrations of leaping lambs on the chest, reminiscent of the youthful sweaters seen on Harry Styles, a notable collaborator. This connection foreshadowed the news that followed the show: "Harry Styles Invests in UK Fashion Label S.S. Daley." "Harry and I share a vision for the future of S.S. Daley and look forward to this new chapter together, focusing on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house," Daley announced. Though details of the deal remain undisclosed, Styles' minority stake marks a significant milestone for the rapidly ascending designer, who graduated from the University of Westminster just three years ago. As the show concluded, one could imagine Daley’s restful night, perhaps best described by the lettering on Look 32’s wide-collared sweater: "Snug as a Bug."

Stone Island made a striking debut on the Milan Fashion Week Men’s calendar this season. Founded in 1982, the Italian brand had never before showcased its collection in the country's fashion capital until this landmark event. On Friday evening, the future-minded label unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “The Compass Inside,” to an audience of fashion's elite. The show took place at La Cattedrale, where a massive black curtain dropped to reveal the next-season wares within a colossal cage. Models stood motionless in their individual containers, illuminated by shifting lights, embodying the brand’s commitment to dedicated technical research. The presentation highlighted Stone Island's key pieces in multiples, showcasing the brand's enduring love for uniforms and the adaptability of its core designs. A standout piece, the Metal Mesh PVD Nanotechnology Down Jacket, featured an illusory facade that resembled liquid glass. This was achieved using two layers of organza and a robust nylon base, with nanotechnology infusing the polyester organza with aluminum to create the optical effect. As always, the brand’s signature compass motif adorned the arm. The Stone Island Ghost collection reimagined the brand’s classics using various wools. Military-inspired peacoats and single-breasted jackets, crafted from a heavy blend of 95% wool and 5% cashmere, were notable highlights. Each piece bore the monochromatic “Ghost” tag on the left sleeve. Additionally, the collection featured a hooded suede sheepskin jacket treated with a PFC-free, anti-drop agent, emphasizing the brand's innovative approach. Further experimentation was evident in two hooded coats and a parka, which utilized polyester mesh for a see-through finish. These items, part of the “Glass Cover-TC” series, achieved their liquid-like appearance through garment dyeing. Completing the lineup, Stone Island’s renowned Nylon Metal textile formed the basis for a light jacket and two bombers. The light jacket featured snap closures, while the bombers were insulated with PrimaLoft-TC for added warmth. Stone Island's "The Compass Inside" collection not only highlighted the brand’s technical prowess and innovative materials but also reinforced its status as a trailblazer in contemporary fashion.

Dean and Dan Caten’s latest runway show was an exuberant exploration of the twin dynamic, perfectly fitting for the irrepressible Canadian brothers. Who better to illustrate "the two sides of the coin" than these fashion dynamos, who live and breathe the reality of being a day-and-night double version of each other? Their show was a delightful spectacle—fun, uplifting, with just the right amount of camp, and brimming with maximalist, mashed-up styling. In today’s often monotone fashion landscape, it felt like a breath of fresh air. The show’s cast featured sets of twins, one dressed in Dsquared2’s signature grungy daywear. Upon entering a "makeover machine," the other twin emerged transformed, glammed up in an evening version of what the first was wearing. The set, a sleek white box, provided a glossy backdrop for the grand finale, where the Catens made a memorable appearance. Dan sported a macho look with fitted black jeans and a see-through glittery chiffon shirt, while Dean wowed as a diva with a flame-red hairdo and a black corset dress, revealing his legs and strutting confidently on ultra-high stilettos. They brought the house down. The show itself was a visual treat, featuring 'busted' models in the brand’s flashy, trashy nouveau take on the Y2K aesthetic it helped pioneer—oversized faux fur trapper hats, distressed denim, and blinged-out accessories. These models underwent a glow-up halfway down the runway, stepping into a futuristic pod reminiscent of the 00s makeover series Snog, Marry, Avoid . With the event announced via a clinical bottle of undisclosed liquid invite—interpreted by some as Botox, others as Ozempic—the made-over models emerged with enhanced faces and high-glam, floor-sweeping gowns, enormous feathered coats, and sleek, sexy, 70s-inspired tailoring. It was a tongue-in-cheek ode to the power of plastic surgery and its influence far beyond fashion. As the last model disappeared backstage, the audience was momentarily left in suspense with only one Caten appearing for a runway lap. Confusion gave way to delight as George Michael’s "Freedom 90!" blared from the speakers, and Dean stepped out in full drag, wearing a dress reminiscent of Diana's revenge dress, towering stilettos, and a coiffed orange wig that channelled Linda Evangelista at her peak. The audience erupted in applause, proving that if there’s one thing the twins know how to do, it’s put on an unforgettable show.