Every season, London Fashion Week introduces fresh talent, but few debuts have been as immersive and personal as Yaku's. This year, the designer label, led by Yaku, made its mark with an evocative presentation titled “The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space: Looking Back to Look Forward to Look Back Again.” Fresh off a 2023 graduate collection from Central Saint Martins that secured the L'Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, Yaku’s Spring/Summer 2025 showcase was not just a fashion presentation but a narrative experience. Set in the heart of 180 Strand, Yaku transformed the space into a fantasy realm where Afrofuturism met personal history. Four tableaus— The Library, Reflection, Combat, and The Forest —told a story inspired by the designer’s family, imagined as characters within a video game. The result was an interactive performance, with actors embodying these avatars in scenes that brought Yaku’s vision to life. It was an approach that broke the mold of traditional runways, inviting the audience to engage with fashion as a living, breathing story. Photography by Oscar Finnnie Sustainability was also at the heart of Yaku’s SS25 collection. Using deadstock fabrics re-dyed and manipulated in-house, Yaku brought a thoughtful, eco-conscious edge to the fantasy. For the first time, the brand introduced womenswear, fluid and graceful alongside the structured menswear pieces, all tied together by natural and prehistoric motifs. Yaku’s creations felt at once otherworldly and grounded, wearable yet conceptual. Beyond the visual impact, what truly set Yaku’s debut apart was the emotional narrative woven throughout the collection. Family, identity, and time itself were layered into every design and tableau. The bold color palette and sculptural silhouettes were striking, but it was the underlying themes of connection, history, and legacy that made the presentation linger long after it ended. With The ImPossible Family Reunion, Yaku didn’t just present a collection—he shared a story, showing that his work is about pushing the boundaries of both fashion and storytelling. The Library: Photography by Oscar Finnnie In The Library , three characters—Grandad, Stephanie, and Karis—gather in preparation for an intellectual battle. They study ancient texts, drawing lessons from the past to guide their future path. The space symbolizes not just knowledge, but responsibility; they are not simply learning for themselves, but preserving wisdom for generations to come. In Yaku’s world, learning becomes a sacred duty, a way to ensure the survival and success of those who follow. Reflection: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Reflection offered a moment of inward exploration. Dad is seen levitating, suspended in a state of meditation. His present self and past self are mirrored, as if both are reliving moments and decisions that shaped him. This space encapsulates the importance of self-awareness, of looking back to understand the journey ahead. In Yaku’s vision, reflection is not just a pause but a powerful tool for navigating the future, where past and present converge in moments of clarity. Combat: Photography by Oscar Finnnie The energy heightens in Combat , where Amir and Nathaniel engage in a dynamic, physical struggle. Their movements are swift, their bond growing stronger with each bout. Here, Yaku uses the concept of combat to symbolize resilience and unity. The fight is not only external but internal, with both characters supporting each other after every skirmish. This tableau captures the essence of camaraderie, where challenges are met with both physical and emotional strength, and the drive to lift each other up becomes paramount. The Forest: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Finally, The Forest provided a moment of quiet strength. Mum, Ricky, and Lorrelle are seen seated among ancient trees, their presence as steady as the roots they sit upon. In this space, sustenance is key; the trio prepares fish together, nourishing both their bodies and spirits for the trials ahead. Yaku uses this tableau to reflect on the cycles of life—survival, continuity, and the need to nurture the collective. The scene is a reminder that growth and endurance are tied to community and care, a sentiment that resonates throughout the entire collection. Yaku’s SS25 debut was nothing short of a revelation, redefining the boundaries of fashion presentations. His ability to merge conceptual design with rich storytelling has cemented him as a significant new voice in the industry, and it’s clear that The ImPossible Family Reunion is just the beginning of what’s to come from this visionary designer.

BUERLANGMA’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Capsule 5, made a bold statement at London Fashion Week, weaving together elements of cultural heritage, history, and cutting-edge design. The Beijing-based fashion house, led by visionary designers Qiqi Yuan and Crystal Wang, has rapidly risen to prominence since its founding in 2020, and this season’s collection showcased their signature fusion of Eastern tradition and modern fashion innovation. The collection, split into five sub-themes—Desire, Power, Degenerate Peace, and Vold—explored themes like the historical intersection of power and fashion, notably through Rococo-inspired pieces that critiqued the influence of nobility on European style. The masks, inspired by traditional Manchu ethnic clothing, added depth to the collection, symbolizing BUERLANGMA’s commitment to honoring cultural legacies while pushing the boundaries of contemporary design. BUERLANGMA’s Capsule 5 was a masterclass in storytelling through fashion. The collection was built on intricate techniques, such as Chinese origami-inspired folds, that harkened back to festival traditions. Yet it also embraced modernity with avant-garde elements that juxtaposed historical influences. The highlight of the runway came when models in oversized black coats revealed intricately designed dresses underneath, symbolizing the evolution of fashion over time. This dramatic transformation celebrated the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week while showcasing BUERLANGMA’s forward-thinking approach and ability to connect past and future through design. Collaboration was key to the success of BUERLANGMA’s SS25 collection. With contributions from artists and designers across various fields, the brand embraced a diverse range of perspectives that enriched the collection’s depth. Through these bold and multifaceted creations, BUERLANGMA reaffirmed its place as a leader in the fashion world, merging Eastern and Western influences and redefining the peaks of creativity and ambition on a global stage.

Jayne Pierson’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, "Annwn," made waves at London Fashion Week, and it’s no wonder. Pierson brought her signature mix of Celtic mythology and high fashion to the runway, with a collection rooted in the mystical Welsh Otherworld. The show wasn’t just about clothes—it was an immersive experience. Models walked through a set that looked straight out of a fantasy novel, complete with twisted willows, dried flowers, and a soft haze of candlelight. The clothing? A dreamy mix of gold technical chiffons, black taffetas, and leather, all of it made sustainably, of course. Pierson has always known how to work that balance between historical reference and modern fashion, and this collection was no exception. What set Pierson apart this season was her ground-breaking use of tech. She partnered with Arius Technology to do something that’s never been done before—print a Wassily Kandinsky painting onto leather. Yes, actual art on leather. It’s wearable art in the most literal sense, and the result was nothing short of breath-taking. And let’s not forget Rachel Goswell, the lead singer of Slowdive, who took to the runway in a structured cape made entirely from ocean plastic waste. With these collaborations, Pierson is proving she’s not just a designer, she’s a visionary who knows how to blend the past and the future, mythology and technology, all while keeping sustainability front and centre. But Pierson didn’t stop there. She also launched a jewellery collection, the Gwenllian line, in partnership with Devji Aurum. The pieces—crafted in 24-carat Welsh gold and adorned with diamonds and precious stones—felt like they belonged in a museum. Each item was created to be worn as an amulet, offering protection to the wearer, tying in perfectly with the magical, otherworldly theme of the show. Pierson’s SS25 collection felt less like a typical fashion presentation and more like a fully realized piece of performance art. It’s clear that Pierson is a designer who not only has something to say, but she’s also finding incredibly innovative ways to say it.

Mithridate's Spring/Summer 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week was a deeply personal and visually stunning celebration of the Creative Director's hometown of Yunnan, China. Among a star-studded front row—including Tamsin Greig, Tigerlily Taylor, Jameela Jamil with James Blake, and actors Charlie Rowe, Hannah Dodd, and Therica Wilson-Read—the collection served as a tribute to Yunnan’s rich cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant ethnic diversity. This was no ordinary runway show—it was an immersive experience where local traditions met modern aesthetics in a seamless blend of art and fashion. (L) James Blake and Jameela Jamil; (M) Tamsin Greig; (R) Tigerlily Taylor (L) Therica Wilson-Read; (M) Charlie Rowe and Hannah Dodd; (R) Mecia Simpson Photo credit: Jason Lloyd Evans The collection itself was a vivid reflection of Yunnan’s community and natural beauty, with traditional techniques like the region's iconic tie-dye method reinvented with contemporary fabrics and sleek, tailored silhouettes. Ice-dyeing, symbolizing the seasonal transition from winter to spring, added depth and a connection to the natural cycles of the Yunnan landscape. The show's opening set the tone with zen-inspired music, complete with flutes and drums, as the first look—a white boxy pearl-embellished dress—floated down the runway. Sound played an unexpected and captivating role in the presentation. A pleated white floor-length dress adorned with silver bells introduced a new sensory element, as each model’s movement filled the space with the soft, melodic jingling of bells sewn into the fabric. The emotional resonance of these sounds created an atmospheric layer that heightened the collection’s tactile and visual impact. Standout pieces included floor-length designs that felt like a fusion of the past and present: a woven jacket with a long tapestry train blending modernity with tradition, a sheer gown embellished with sparkling stars, and a lacy white dress paired with a cape in matching motifs. Mithridate’s Spring 2025 collection wasn’t just a fashion show—it was a celebration of heritage, nature, and the emotional power of design.

Ancuța Sarca’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, presented at London Fashion Week, plunged attendees into a world where the mundane corporate grind collides with the rebellious spirit of 1960s counterculture. With the soft hum of keyboard clicks and fluorescent lights setting the tone, Sarca drew inspiration from the everyday uniform of modern city life—dark suits, monochrome tracksuits, and comfortable shoes like Crocs and Clarks Wallabees. But true to form, Sarca injected her signature juxtaposition into the collection, fusing corporate minimalism with the wild energy of animal prints and bold textures. Photography by Francesco Zinno Her designs are an imaginative blend of high-concept and wearable, with sportswear silhouettes transformed by upcycled materials like snakeskin high-heeled pumps and oversized leopard print boots—both anchored in masculine shirt collars and sportswear stripes. Sarca’s exploration of gender roles continues with menswear, featuring reworked loafers with velcro fastenings and sleek faux snakeskin detailing. The collection’s highlight was Sarca's partnerships with iconic footwear brands Crocs and Clarks. The collaboration with Clarks reimagined the classic Wallabees using deadstock shoes, marrying heritage style with sustainability in a bold new vision. Crocs, known for their quirky comfort, were deconstructed and transformed using experimental electrostatic flocking techniques, creating hybrid designs that merge practicality with avant-garde aesthetics. Ancuța Sarca’s SS25 collection was an ode to duality—everyday functionality clashed with creative rebellion, a fusion of eras that questioned and celebrated the roles we embody in modern life. Through her reimagined footwear and bold designs, Sarca once again proved her mastery at turning the expected into something thrillingly unexpected.

The runway was awash with delicate pastels—rose pinks, mint greens, and soft yellows—that evoked the blossoming of daffodils and spring’s gentle arrival. The floral jacquards, Irish linens, and silk tweeds spoke of a refined femininity, and the smocking details and ruffles added a whimsical touch to otherwise tailored silhouettes. A standout piece, a pleated silk jacquard skirt paired with a structured linen blazer, harkened back to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless 1960s style, effortlessly blending sophistication with charm. Costelloe’s mastery over these fabrics, often challenging in their own right, underscored his reputation as one of fashion's quiet masters. But it wasn’t just the pastel hues or nostalgic nods that caught the audience’s attention. The collection was steeped in modernity, seen in the inclusion of his first bridal collection—a surprising yet fitting debut for the designer who has spent over 40 years dressing some of the world's most elegant women. These wedding gowns, with their clean lines and minimalist elegance, stood out against the romantic backdrop of the rest of the collection, providing a striking contrast between tradition and the new. Costelloe also introduced a range of accessories, with Paul Costelloe Bags in soft watercolor shades adding a delicate touch to the already dreamy palette. His collaboration with architect Angela Brady brought iridescent jewelry to the runway, elevating the collection’s ethereal quality. For all its soft nostalgia, the collection also spoke to contemporary sensibilities. Striped socks paired with stilettos gave a quirky twist, hinting at Costelloe’s playful side. His debut hosiery collection, a nod to the current trend for elevated workwear, proved that even after decades in the industry, Costelloe is still in tune with the zeitgeist. His Le Ciel est Bleu collection effortlessly straddled past and present, Parisian chic and modern playfulness, making it one of the most enchanting highlights of London Fashion Week.