London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 was in full swing, and among the many highly anticipated shows, JW Anderson’s collection stood out like a rebellious breath of fresh air. Hosted at the atmospheric Old Billingsgate, with its Victorian architecture and views of Tower Bridge, the location alone set the tone for a show that was anything but conventional. In a space where fish once dominated the scene, today it was Jonathan Anderson’s eponymous brand that took centre stage, reimagining femininity through subversive silhouettes and a materiality-driven approach. Anderson’s interpretation of femininity came through in an unexpected color palette. Saccharine pink sequin minidresses and architectural hemlines on negligee-like dresses dominated the runway, giving girlish hues an edge. The boldness extended to stiff leather skirts—tough, tutu-inspired shapes that veered dangerously close to avant-garde. There was a clear throughline to the brand’s famed accessories here, with the fabrications of JW Anderson’s cult handbags informing the collection’s structural choices. Leather was more than just an accessory—it became the star material, central to Anderson’s vision for the season. Speaking of materials, Anderson’s deep dive into materiality was perhaps the most impressive aspect of this collection. Leather, silk, and cashmere formed the bedrock of the SS25 lineup. The exploration of these fabrics led to a tactile feast, where the unexpected met the familiar in surprising ways. 3D-printed trompe l’oeil effects turned silk minidresses into faux knits, and wool strips were woven into dresses that appeared ready to take flight. These were clothes that demanded a second look, a closer examination to fully grasp their complexity. It was as if each piece held its own little secret—a detail or a fabrication twist that only revealed itself upon careful observation. What was most striking, though, was how the collection balanced this technical prowess with a certain simplicity. "I like this idea of focus," Anderson noted post-show. This season’s looks didn’t rely on excessive embellishments or gimmicks. Instead, Anderson honed in on the power of a few well-chosen materials and allowed the craftsmanship to shine through. A typographic silk print, lifted from Clive Bell’s theory of design, made its way onto minimalist dresses, underscoring Anderson’s cerebral approach to fashion—always balancing between art and wearability. And yet, for all its intellectual underpinnings, the collection didn’t feel aloof or inaccessible. Quite the opposite, in fact. The biker boots—a JW Anderson staple—offered a grounded counterpoint to the high-concept garments. Flat, slouchy, and adorned with an oversized zipper, they were as approachable as they were quirky, perfectly encapsulating Anderson’s knack for making the offbeat feel desirable. These boots, paired with flowing skirts and structured tops, were the ultimate statement of the collection’s overarching theme: setting boundaries to find liberation. It wouldn’t be a JW Anderson show without a buzzworthy accessory, and this season’s standout was undoubtedly the debut of the Loafer Bag. This rectangular shoulder bag, with its menswear-inspired whale-tail penny keeper, was a subtle yet significant statement—another testament to Anderson’s ability to elevate the mundane. With its slightly slouchy silhouette, the Loafer Bag is sure to be a hit, destined to pop up on the arms of fashion’s elite in the coming months. JW Anderson’s SS25 show was, as expected, a masterclass in contradictions. It played with the idea of femininity but twisted it into something more layered, more complex. It explored the boundaries of materials but did so with an eye for simplicity. And, as always, it challenged our expectations of what fashion can be—an exploration, a dialogue, a push and pull between past and future.

Ahluwalia’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a powerful meditation on migration and heritage, titled Home Sweet Home . Drawing inspiration from the designer label’s Indian-Nigerian roots and a recent trip to Jamaica, the collection explored the emotional ties to home—both physical and metaphorical. Ahluwalia used deadstock fabrics to create tailored suits, while vintage doilies were upcycled into tops, giving each piece a rich history. With references to Peruvian artist Jorge Eielson’s knotted fabric techniques, garments were pleated and pulled across the body, symbolizing the emotional tug of home. The 31-look collection blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. Soft tones of ecru, browns, and reds were balanced by vibrant blues and greens, while intricate patterns paid homage to the designer’s grandparents’ first home in England. Textures played a central role, with raffia knitwear and beaded co-ords adding depth to the collection. The runway itself was a sensory experience, with Indian and Persian rugs lining the stage and a live soundtrack mixing Afrobeats, Bollywood influences, and the sounds of everyday life. Ahluwalia’s ability to weave cultural storytelling with sustainable design shone through in Home Sweet Home . The collection not only showcased the brand’s expertise in merging global influences but also celebrated the universal theme of belonging, creating a moving and memorable moment at London Fashion Week.

Daniel w. Fletcher’s Spring/Summer 2025 presentation at London Fashion Week took a bold leap into the past while keeping one foot firmly in the future. Known for its ability to blend tradition with modernity, the brand unveiled a collection that felt like a love letter to British style, reimagining iconic 1980s silhouettes through a fresh, contemporary lens. From boardroom-ready tailoring to nautical influences, and even a playful nod to ballroom formality, Daniel w. Fletcher’s SS25 collection was an exploration of timeless elegance with a distinctly modern twist. The presentation celebrated classic British sartorial codes—strong-shouldered, double-breasted suits, gold-buttoned naval jackets, and Savile Row-inspired pinstripes—while injecting a casual, sporty edge. Tailored blazers were paired with athletic-inspired track pants, and naval uniforms were transformed with soft, unexpected fabrics like silk and linen. This interplay of structure and ease gave the collection an air of effortless sophistication, as Daniel w. Fletcher brought together the precision of formal wear with the comfort of everyday fashion. This season’s lineup reflected the brand’s signature approach: honoring the past while pushing the boundaries of contemporary menswear. Daniel w. Fletcher’s SS25 presentation was more than a fashion statement; it was a visual narrative that captured the fluidity of modern masculinity, combining heritage tailoring with an irreverent attitude, and proving that even the most formal traditions can be redefined with a dash of innovation.

Every season, London Fashion Week introduces fresh talent, but few debuts have been as immersive and personal as Yaku's. This year, the designer label, led by Yaku, made its mark with an evocative presentation titled “The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space: Looking Back to Look Forward to Look Back Again.” Fresh off a 2023 graduate collection from Central Saint Martins that secured the L'Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, Yaku’s Spring/Summer 2025 showcase was not just a fashion presentation but a narrative experience. Set in the heart of 180 Strand, Yaku transformed the space into a fantasy realm where Afrofuturism met personal history. Four tableaus— The Library, Reflection, Combat, and The Forest —told a story inspired by the designer’s family, imagined as characters within a video game. The result was an interactive performance, with actors embodying these avatars in scenes that brought Yaku’s vision to life. It was an approach that broke the mold of traditional runways, inviting the audience to engage with fashion as a living, breathing story. Photography by Oscar Finnnie Sustainability was also at the heart of Yaku’s SS25 collection. Using deadstock fabrics re-dyed and manipulated in-house, Yaku brought a thoughtful, eco-conscious edge to the fantasy. For the first time, the brand introduced womenswear, fluid and graceful alongside the structured menswear pieces, all tied together by natural and prehistoric motifs. Yaku’s creations felt at once otherworldly and grounded, wearable yet conceptual. Beyond the visual impact, what truly set Yaku’s debut apart was the emotional narrative woven throughout the collection. Family, identity, and time itself were layered into every design and tableau. The bold color palette and sculptural silhouettes were striking, but it was the underlying themes of connection, history, and legacy that made the presentation linger long after it ended. With The ImPossible Family Reunion, Yaku didn’t just present a collection—he shared a story, showing that his work is about pushing the boundaries of both fashion and storytelling. The Library: Photography by Oscar Finnnie In The Library , three characters—Grandad, Stephanie, and Karis—gather in preparation for an intellectual battle. They study ancient texts, drawing lessons from the past to guide their future path. The space symbolizes not just knowledge, but responsibility; they are not simply learning for themselves, but preserving wisdom for generations to come. In Yaku’s world, learning becomes a sacred duty, a way to ensure the survival and success of those who follow. Reflection: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Reflection offered a moment of inward exploration. Dad is seen levitating, suspended in a state of meditation. His present self and past self are mirrored, as if both are reliving moments and decisions that shaped him. This space encapsulates the importance of self-awareness, of looking back to understand the journey ahead. In Yaku’s vision, reflection is not just a pause but a powerful tool for navigating the future, where past and present converge in moments of clarity. Combat: Photography by Oscar Finnnie The energy heightens in Combat , where Amir and Nathaniel engage in a dynamic, physical struggle. Their movements are swift, their bond growing stronger with each bout. Here, Yaku uses the concept of combat to symbolize resilience and unity. The fight is not only external but internal, with both characters supporting each other after every skirmish. This tableau captures the essence of camaraderie, where challenges are met with both physical and emotional strength, and the drive to lift each other up becomes paramount. The Forest: Photography by Oscar Finnnie Finally, The Forest provided a moment of quiet strength. Mum, Ricky, and Lorrelle are seen seated among ancient trees, their presence as steady as the roots they sit upon. In this space, sustenance is key; the trio prepares fish together, nourishing both their bodies and spirits for the trials ahead. Yaku uses this tableau to reflect on the cycles of life—survival, continuity, and the need to nurture the collective. The scene is a reminder that growth and endurance are tied to community and care, a sentiment that resonates throughout the entire collection. Yaku’s SS25 debut was nothing short of a revelation, redefining the boundaries of fashion presentations. His ability to merge conceptual design with rich storytelling has cemented him as a significant new voice in the industry, and it’s clear that The ImPossible Family Reunion is just the beginning of what’s to come from this visionary designer.

At London Fashion Week, Dimitra Petsa of Di Petsa unveiled a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that pushed the boundaries of intimacy and self-acceptance, continuing her fearless exploration of the female body and the divine feminine. With her collection titled “My Body Is a Labyrinth,” Petsa used Greek mythology as a metaphor to confront societal taboos, focusing on themes of menstruation and self-pleasure. The show’s standout motif, the Minotaur, represented the shame and guilt women often carry, with menstruation used as a symbol of that inner struggle. Models walked with fake sunburn, sand in their hair, and period stains streaking down their legs, unapologetically embodying a raw and visceral sense of femininity. Di Petsa’s signature wet-look designs were ever-present, but this season, the emphasis was on heat — dry, scorching, and deeply intimate. A powerful phrase, “shame is self-inflicted,” appeared emblazoned on a towel-inspired wrap skirt, grounding the collection’s message of liberation from societal expectations. The addition of menswear, a bold new direction for Petsa, saw body-sculpting pleated shirting and "hard-on" denim, challenging traditional notions of male sensuality. The entire experience was immersive, complete with a soundscape of cicadas and hypnotic electronica, evoking the suffocating heat of summer. As models mimicked Minotaur horns with blood-stained hands and tangled themselves in a blood-red ball of yarn, Petsa’s vision of self-discovery through pleasure came to life. Her SS25 show was not just a collection but an evocative narrative, pushing the conversation forward on the complexities of womanhood, body autonomy, and sensuality.

Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 show at London Fashion Week marked a striking evolution for the brand, blending its signature spiked knitwear with a newfound elegance. Paying homage to Mai-Wah Cheung, a trailblazer in computer science and digital media, the collection explored the delicate balance between power and vulnerability. Titled “Mai’s Blossoms,” the collection reinterpreted Cheung’s professional wardrobe, introducing soft draping and fluidity to Chet Lo’s typically sharp designs, with each of the 31 looks serving as a tribute to her strength and adaptability. Opening with sheer organza dresses featuring digital “glitch” patterns—a nod to Cheung’s technology career—the collection progressed with textured knitwear in black and blue, asymmetrical skirts, and translucent knee panels. Chet Lo’s iconic spikes were reimagined in softer, more structured forms, while cloaked mini dresses and manipulated pleated trousers added an experimental edge. The finale featured fruit-shaped glass beads, an homage to Cheung’s artistic journey, symbolizing her transition from corporate life to creativity. The collection wove together Cheung’s evolution from corporate powerhouse to artist, with cobalt plaids in gauzy dresses and sleek charcoal gowns echoing the contrasts in her life. Refined woven techniques hinted at Chet Lo’s own maturation as a brand, moving towards a more demure, elegant aesthetic while still maintaining its punky, club-kid roots. These pieces signaled a desire to elevate the brand’s identity through a deeper narrative. In a touching finale, the show celebrated transformation, honoring the women who inspire. Chet Lo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection wasn’t just about spiked knitwear or bold statements—it was about finding strength in softness and reflecting the emotional journey of growth and change.