The Algorithmic Modular System (1) is comprised of base layers (10), components (100) and extra components (1000). These numeric values draw inspiration from Tao Te Ching, written by Laozi, the founder of Taoism. In the 42nd chapter it says "Tao breeds one, one breeds two, two breeds three, and three breeds everything". In this ancient philosophy, Taozi explains how everything in the world is formed, from nothing to one, from one to many. The Algorithmic Modular System [AMS], created by JE Cai, follows the same ideology. From one system it breeds infinite possibilities. To assemble your products, attach and detach Basics (10), Components (100) or Extra Components (1000) by using the fastening mechanisms located on the connecting points. From zippers to buttons, these fastening mechanisms are elegant in design and allow you to personalise your own uniform. After introducing the foundation structure of the brand’s Algorithmic Modular System (AMS), This season's developments further explore the possibilities of various component parts, introducing new detachable functions. The addition of a lighter colour palette and softer, more casual shapes and draping, is a notable movement, effecting a sense of balance in the collection as a whole, while maintaining the brand’s signature uniformity and playing with existing contradictions in the system. This collection is about collating and developing signature components as focal points. Experimental and rebellious in its nature, JE Cai is tailored for the modern intellectual. Jiean worked on this collection with a clear vision of the JE Cai woman and the different stages of her day in mind. Producing interchangeable uniform components that comprise of buildable look, the brand’s intention is to take the wearer from day into night.

APUJAN is a London-based womenswear label founded by the designer Apu Jan, which officially debuted in AW13 during London Fashion Week. The designs are renowned for integrating patterns and knitwear techniques to illustrate themes inspired by fantasy and literature. This season, the designer is returning to LFW with a physical runway show after a three-year hiatus, presenting their latest SS24 collection titled ‘The Casebook of Kaiju’ APUJAN successively released six fashion show videos and collaborated with numerous Asian actors and celebrities for special performances. This year, APUJAN returns to London, partnering with an international fashion team to present the collection in a physical catwalk once again. The show is titled “The Casebook of Kaiju”, and set for the show was the historical Somerset House. A variety of fine-knit garments, evening gowns, sports and leisurewear, printed dresses, shirts and even menswear looks were presented. Some of the more prominent pieces were: The opening look which featured a relaxed pink long coat, with hot pink pockets, worn with white trainers, with the face of the model hidden under a mask of flowers. Look 5 which consisted of a two-piece light blue outfit with skeleton arm prints all over. The vest is cut into multiple panels which are then connected together with thick fabric almost like a shoelace to create this body complimenting cinched silhouette. “The Casebook of Kaiju” is a collection inspired by the evening of a monster’s arrival, the anticipation of the people who are about to witness it, and is a reference to a new modern and different era. Those references can be seen throughout the show, with symbolic elements such as barriers, ships and the ocean, forests, tanks, news reports and many others.

On a rainy day during London Fashion Week, we are welcomed on the top floor of a lovely space at Bond Street, where Abigail Ajobi presents her SS24 collection. There are drinks, multiple Instagrammable spots and plenty of seating areas around inviting us to relax and really spend the time allowing the garments to settle in and ultimately become one of our favourite shows of the season. This is the 5th collection of Abigail Ajobi and it merges Nollywood Nostalgia and Nigerian Youth Culture, titled “Anti-Muse” it incorporates contemporary Adire prints to create a powerful narrative of cultural fusion and expression. Fusing the vibrant charm of Lagos and storytelling through London’s fashion scene, it focuses on reinventing traditions. Collection Highlights: • 'Anti-Muse': Abigail Ajobi's 5th collection, aptly named 'Anti-Muse', defies conventional fashion norms. It embodies the defiance and individualism of the Alté: Nigerian subculture, with the captivating essence of early 2000’s Nollywood film. • Adire Renaissance: Adire prints, a timeless Nigerian textile tradition, find new life within the 'Anti-Muse' collection. These prints are expertly integrated into the fabric of the collection, transforming tradition into modernity and embracing the harmony of cultural heritage. • London Heritage: A London native, Abigail Ajobi masterfully weaves her dual identity into the collection, merging her Nigerian roots with her British upbringing. 'Anti-Muse' represents the multicultural pulse of London, where diverse influences converge in a harmonious fashion narrative. Designer's Vision: "'Anti-Muse' is a celebration of the unconventional, the unapologetic, and the beautifully contradictory. It's an exploration of how early 2000's Nollywood film and Nigerian youth culture intertwine to shape unique identities. Adire prints ground the collection in tradition while it propels into modernity," says Abigail Ajobi, the visionary designer.

Albarella returns with his signature critique of masculinity’s norms by orbiting the concept of Alien Nation. In response to far-right Italian Prime Minister’s recent dress-code restrictions for parliamentarians, the SS24 collections observes masculine attires as they oscillate between the 9 ‘til 5 worlds of ‘Gang Banking’ and the lunar constellations of a nightly after-work-life. Silk velvet worked in bias mocks political dualities which distract us away from the flamboyant possibilities of elegant attires serving both night and day aesthetics. Feel yourself free to leave the WFH office in your boxers to dive into the silvery glitter transparencies of a wildly queer night out. Monochrome on monochrome is just an invite to look at the nuances of things, and Albarella’s irony is often found in the detail: a Murrell Knot Tie that bears the iconic buckle elements that bind concepts to an unapologetically dissident style. Always joining and subverting ideas of masculinity, these Alienated conditions of labour and attire remind us of what we carry with us across our daily lives. Bring with you a Garment Bag to change suits at will. Please don’t forget the Cherry Bag either, after all, you gotta make sure to have some balls to make money. The Bulge Bag is revisited too, the polite cut of suit trousers meekly banters the ‘package’ being served here. Things are getting serious in this jokes world of labour. Just enjoy yourself henny.​

Noki returns to London Fashion Week for SS24 featuring the Tin Can Custom Crew & the Super Scratch Sunday's, a fully working art installation investigating what is NESTT. This is a sustained work in progress process between stylist Kim Howells, hairdresser Nick Irwin and the textile collage artist Noki Custom NHSt. Each element brings forth their own unique creative process to produce a show that the Noki NESTT student will academically adopt by blueprint custom replication to better forward these sustainable processes to push the evolution of the sustainable expression for the future of this 21st Century style. In this NESTT Mash Up mix, Nick Irwin brings his many years of international Schwarzkopf hair excellence with his own unique teaching process, exposing on the runway for the first time the foundations of how to build a hair colour and cut for deep follicle NESTT experimentation. The rave waits for absolutely nobody as dominated by the JBL handheld freedom speakers by the Tin Can Crew, interacting with the static Super Scratch Sunday's scratchers creating a unique audience audio experience, sourcing for that sweet spot mash up /sound clash. International stylist, creative director Kim Howells brings her cherry on top PROCESS, coordinating these raw Noki NESTT manifestations on a cast of community street muses for her NESTT catwalk 2024 runway show. Not until you own your own unique PROCESS can you proceed with originality and authenticity.

This season, JU-NNA draws inspiration from water and the mesmerizing waves created in water on rivers, seas and lakes. The concept intertwines the artistic essence of London’s fashion scene with the elegance and tranquility of Japanese design, resulting in a unique fusion of cultural influences. Viewers are invited to explore a world where traditional Japanese Shibori craftsmanship meets cutting-edge design, offering a unique and captivating experience. In this JU-NNA collection, the exploration of water's playful essence, the rhythmic dance of sea waves, and the intricate fusion of delicate fabrics with expert craftsmanship takes center stage. The opening look is a delicate bright jumpsuit relaxed worn atop of a body-fitted mesh long-sleeve top, which creates an interesting silhouette built on contrast. As the collection progresses we see this abundance of textures created from similar fabrics which beautifully morph and reflect the light giving it an easy-going, yet sophisticated feel and look. JU-NNA was founded in 2019 by Jun Nakamura, an Instituto Marangoni fashion design womenswear graduate. The brand focuses on fusing conventional Japanese techniques with contemporary and modern design, drawing inspiration from the designer's prior work in the Japanese kimono industry and Tokyo Fashion. Through collaboration with Asianartisans, Jun incorporates traditional Japanese Shibori into his collections, giving a time-honored tradition a fresh and unique look.