"I love Pitti Uomo because it feels like an extension of Savile Row," British designer Steven Stokey-Daley confided backstage at his Fall/Winter 2024 runway show during the biannual menswear event. "Where Savile Row is maybe not so alive now, it feels like it’s more alive here. It’s a lovely cyclical thing." In both arenas, bespoke tailored suiting reigns supreme, and Daley's Florentine display masterfully blended the age-old practices of these iconic regions.
Set amidst the Mannerist masterpieces inside the historic Salone dei Cinquecento of Palazzo Vecchio, Daley's models navigated columns stuffed with pillows, a nod to the cramped living quarters of Oxford University students from decades past. "I wanted to transform the set into this abstracted version of a dorm room," Daley explained. His imaginative execution allowed the fashion to remain the focal point, with the academic ensembles poised to fit seamlessly into his conceptual residence hall’s closets.
Central to Daley's inspiration was E.M. Forster's 1911 novella The Story of a Panic. "It’s about a British boy who comes to Italy for the first time and has his cardinal awakening," Daley shared. Reflecting the novella’s setting in a remote fishing village, far from the constraints of British institutions, the collection featured lighter, more liberated garments. A standout motif was an enlarged fish, appearing in blue on a white button-down shirt, while a yellow fishing coat catered to utilitarian tastes.
"Florence deeply informed the collection, which is why you see such incredible tapestries," Daley noted. His love for intarsia was evident, with Rowan yarn blankets transformed into oversized rugby shirts adorned with classic British imagery, including horse-riding hunters and wildflowers. This fusion of Italian and British design elements encapsulated the collection's identity.
Daley also paid homage to Britain’s sartorial heritage with a playful cardigan featuring illustrations of leaping lambs on the chest, reminiscent of the youthful sweaters seen on Harry Styles, a notable collaborator. This connection foreshadowed the news that followed the show: "Harry Styles Invests in UK Fashion Label S.S. Daley."
"Harry and I share a vision for the future of S.S. Daley and look forward to this new chapter together, focusing on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house," Daley announced. Though details of the deal remain undisclosed, Styles' minority stake marks a significant milestone for the rapidly ascending designer, who graduated from the University of Westminster just three years ago.
As the show concluded, one could imagine Daley’s restful night, perhaps best described by the lettering on Look 32’s wide-collared sweater: "Snug as a Bug."
