Paul Costelloe’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled Le Ciel est Bleu (The Sky is Blue), transported the audience to a sun-soaked Parisian boulevard with a romantic, nostalgic air. The collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week, combined classic tailoring with youthful exuberance, offering a fresh yet timeless interpretation of springtime elegance. Costelloe, a London Fashion Week veteran, once again drew from his formative years in Paris, where his journey as a designer began. This collection was a heartfelt tribute to those early memories, infused with a playful modern twist.
The runway was awash with delicate pastels—rose pinks, mint greens, and soft yellows—that evoked the blossoming of daffodils and spring’s gentle arrival. The floral jacquards, Irish linens, and silk tweeds spoke of a refined femininity, and the smocking details and ruffles added a whimsical touch to otherwise tailored silhouettes. A standout piece, a pleated silk jacquard skirt paired with a structured linen blazer, harkened back to Jackie Kennedy’s timeless 1960s style, effortlessly blending sophistication with charm. Costelloe’s mastery over these fabrics, often challenging in their own right, underscored his reputation as one of fashion's quiet masters.
But it wasn’t just the pastel hues or nostalgic nods that caught the audience’s attention. The collection was steeped in modernity, seen in the inclusion of his first bridal collection—a surprising yet fitting debut for the designer who has spent over 40 years dressing some of the world's most elegant women. These wedding gowns, with their clean lines and minimalist elegance, stood out against the romantic backdrop of the rest of the collection, providing a striking contrast between tradition and the new.
Costelloe also introduced a range of accessories, with Paul Costelloe Bags in soft watercolour shades adding a delicate touch to the already dreamy palette. His collaboration with architect Angela Brady brought iridescent jewellery to the runway, elevating the collection’s ethereal quality.
For all its soft nostalgia, the collection also spoke to contemporary sensibilities. Striped socks paired with stilettos gave a quirky twist, hinting at Costelloe’s playful side. His debut hosiery collection, a nod to the current trend for elevated workwear, proved that even after decades in the industry, Costelloe is still in tune with the zeitgeist. His Le Ciel est Bleu collection effortlessly straddled past and present, Parisian chic and modern playfulness, making it one of the most enchanting highlights of London Fashion Week.
