Patrick McDowell’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled at London’s Guildhall School of Music & Drama, drew inspiration from the life and work of British queer artist Glyn Philpot, exploring themes of duality, identity, and artistry. The collection, rather than serving as a tribute, uses Philpot’s experience of navigating both society’s expectations and his queer identity as a creative lens. McDowell dove into Philpot’s world by exploring letters from the Tate archives and connecting with his remaining relatives, embedding an authenticity and personal narrative into the designs. The result is a collection that seamlessly bridges fashion, art, and culture, reflecting the dual existence that many queer individuals face.
The immersive runway show, held in collaboration with the Guildhall School, was more than just a presentation of fashion—it was an artistic experience, featuring live performances from emerging classical musicians that brought a dramatic, operatic energy. Just as Philpot’s art captured the essence of performance, McDowell’s show celebrated this interplay between fashion and the performing arts.
Silhouettes were directly influenced by Philpot’s artwork, with painterly prints, floral motifs, and trompe l’oeil details adorning garments crafted from biodegradable TENCEL™ fibres. The colour palette, soft and nuanced, mirrored the emotional depth of Philpot’s pieces, while modern, sustainable textiles gave them a contemporary edge.
The final looks featured a well-fitted black bodysuit, with an organza wrap around like a scarf piece which extends into a beautiful train, and a metallic voluminous evening gown covered in black organza.
