Recently, Demna has been reinforcing his core identity. Since October 2023, he’s presented collections that epitomise his punkish, provocative attitude and a penchant for padded shoulders. Yet, he never remains static. Last night’s Spring 2025 runway show, technically Resort 2025, staged in Shanghai, was a testament to his dynamic vision. Despite Balenciaga’s numerous stores in China, this marked their inaugural show in the country, a meticulously planned event years in the making.
The Spring 2025 collection was unveiled at the Museum of Art Pudong, a masterpiece by French architect Jean Nouvel. Unfortunately, the vibrant steamed win-win cakes—a Shanghainese delicacy symbolising good fortune, dyed in auspicious red and stamped with the double-B logo—could not stave off the rain that began falling late in the afternoon, persisting into the evening show. Yet, the drizzle failed to deter the throngs of enthusiasts beyond the barricades, swathed in plastic ponchos and clutching umbrellas, eagerly awaiting stars like actress and house ambassador Michelle Yeoh.
Demna’s love affair with Shanghai and his clientele there is evident in the meticulous planning of this show. Despite his avant-garde flair, he remains pragmatic. The booming luxury market in Asia makes Shanghai a strategic choice for this grand event. Demna’s ability to balance creative integrity with marketable products cements his brilliance as an artistic director and visionary. In Shanghai or elsewhere, his designs continue to make us think and feel—two commodities money simply cannot buy.
More irreverent designs—the ripped tights pantashoes and a Balenciaga shoe box clutch crafted from leather—sprinkled among a plethora of Balenciaga staples. “I tried to create a new equilibrium between different parts of my aesthetic, so I’m not only the streetwear-hoodie guy or couture reinterpreted,” Demna explained. “It’s all of that and maybe more.” The final series of experimental semi-couture and couture dresses emphasised materiality: a cocoon column-like dress assembled from travel bags, another fashioned from gold foil gift packaging, and a third from Tyvek paper, subtly nodding to one of China’s greatest inventions. The closing gown, a striking creation from decade-old pink plastic bags, featured strips hand-cut and wired into feather-like embellishments, evoking a piece from the house’s archive. Amid Shanghai’s relentless consumption, this couture made from recycled materials struck a particularly poignant chord.
The couture looks that closed the show were nothing short of magical. Particularly the pink gown, crafted from decade-old plastic bags, strips cut and wired to mimic feathers. A sleeveless dress made from gold-foil gift packaging and other pieces constructed from Tyvek paper and travel bags added to the collection’s allure. One standout was the “black velvet jewellery display dress,” a creation for the arbiter of taste who favours luxury with a microdose of eccentricity.
The Shanghai collection, unveiled on a rainy evening at the imposing Museum of Art Pudong, added another compelling chapter to Demna’s narrative. The designs reflected his intellectual curiosity and a twisted take on classic glamour. One could easily imagine the cast of Netflix’s Bling Empire donning these quirky rich-lady outfits, whether in L.A. or the bustling streets of China’s largest city. The collection featured polished hourglass skirts and billowy pussy-bow blouses paired with slinky open-toe heels and white tube socks or ripped-fabric pantaboots. Cropped and bulky trenches and cocooning faux-fur coats exuded an “I’m expensive” vibe, coupled with an aura of utter nonchalance. Demna’s signature blend of tackiness and perfect tailoring, with distinct lines, was ever-present.
Men’s offerings were equally robust, highlighted by a new collaboration between Balenciaga and Under Armour. The viral sensation was the triple-layer brick-size flatform boot, inspired by Shanghai’s towering skyscrapers, destined to become a must-have for Demna’s most fervent devotees.
Just before his Fall 2024 Balenciaga runway show in Paris, Demna left a tantalising voice message for his audience, accessible via a QR code in the collection notes. He declared, “What seems truly rare and infinite right now is actually creativity itself. I believe that creativity has secretly become a new form of luxury.” This proclamation encapsulates the very essence of Demna’s design ethos. By treating luxury as an unbounded playground for self-expression rather than a rigidly structured domain, he has turned his tenure at Balenciaga into a nine-year spectacle of unrivalled success.
